Update - see post dated 3-8-19.

Update 3-6-19. See post dated today.

Update 3-4-19. See post dated today about 7pm.

Update 3-3-19. See post dated today.

Here's an UPDATE on 2-26-19. I tested the brakes without the platform on the tractor. In 2nd gear, each brake would nearly stall the engine. I believe that this means that the platform is preventing the brakes from coming on fully. More when I know more.

The brake bands in my CA were replaced a number of years ago. They are essentially still new.  The adjusting screws are tightened to the point where the ends of the screws are hitting the bottom of the the openings in the brake bands and cannot be tightened further. When I apply the brakes, I'm getting almost no stopping power.

Today I pulled the platform and disconnected one of the brake rods from the toggle/actuator. I jacked up the tractor final and applied the brake by hand by pushing on the toggle/actuator while turning the rear wheel. The wheel instantly stopped and I couldn't move it. I realize that I'm applying much less turning power than the engine, but this seems like a clue! I repeated the experiment with the other side but this time leaving the brake linkage connected and applying the brake using the pedal. Same result - the brake instantly locked up the wheel. I checked the brake drum surfaces - both are tarnished and show no indication of a brake band slipping on the drum.

The question is: what could be causing the brakes to work with the platform removed but not when it's in place? Or is the test I did meaningless?

Thanks for any advice on this.

Dave

Thanks!

Dave

I've also thought of another possible cause. Both drums are scored - someone let the brake linings wear to the point that the rivets scored the drums. Perhaps the scoring has led to some wear of the drum surfaces, thus requiring the toggle to move further to apply braking power but the platform design doesn't allow the added travel?

Dave

Though I've owned this CA for 10+ years, I don't know how it was used before I bought her.  I know that I replaced the brake bands because the old ones were worn badly, so could have had a lot of wear and tear on the drums. so I am going to suck it up and replace them! Just ordered a drum for the left side. I've got a rhs drum on the shelf. It's used but you'd never know it....can't buy them new but this one was advertised on here years ago so I bought it thinking I might need it. My bride says that it's good to think ahead.....you never know when you'll need one. 

Removed the tire, including the center, then pulled the final drive unit off. [Note to file - next time, drain the rear end before blocking access to the drain plug with dunnage! Ended up draining it through one of the lower final drive stud holes, thereby avoiding dumping oil all over the floor.]

Here are a couple of pictures of what I found. Look closely at the drum, especially the 1/4" or so closest to the housing which is the part of the drum NOT worn by the brake band. Not only is the drum scored but the area scored by the brake band is worn down close to 1/8". The brake band is trash - the hinge was frozen and the lining was broken in a couple of places - more now that I wrestled it out of the housing!

If only I could get at the *&%#$ lock nut to remove it! If you have a magic way to do that, please let me know!!

HMM.. thinking out loud here.. about the nut. I don't have my CA anymore to look but..humour me...

Can you get some kind of wrench,or bar, or 'locking device' onto the nut, firmly ? Then rotate the pto or starter  ,in gear , to spin the axle ? Obviously you gotta plug the plug wires , well the main coil one !!!

My idea is to keep the nut solid or fixed, then  turn the shaft.... think 'backwards'. I've done this trick on other stuff.

Maybe someone will see if it's possible.

Jay

OK....any pictures?

Now I'm thinking HD mode..

can you get a socket onto the nut and bolt ?

If so ,great... make this adapter..

socket is on 3" extension that has a sproket welded on. It turns on a long piece of 1by1 tubing. Chain couples that sprocket to another mounted the 'top end', It works as follow

you put rachet on top sprocket, when you turn the rachet, the sproket turns the chain that turns the lower sprockt that turns the socket that turns the nut, and it falls off.

HD guys us them to build the engines, seen that on TV !

If you put a piece of maget in the socket, the nut will stay in the socket.

Jay

Ray, I've been thinking about how I will convince that drum to move on the pinion shaft once I get the bolt out. I don't have any sort of puller that could reach all the way from the end of the shaft to the drum, so if the drum won't move with some leverage applied through the holes in the housing, I'll still have to destroy the drum to get it out. Don(MO) mentioned using a cutoff wheel, too. So that may be the way I go. We'll see!

gee Ray that's really,really sad it came out that way... even sadder is it sounds like MOST of them come out the same.... Can't a 'puller' be attached? If so I'm thinking of 2 half moons of 1/2" thick plate with 3 , 1/2" threaded holes to go 'behind'. then insert 6 allthreaded rods , then slide the 'pulling disc' on and add 2 washers and a nut to each rod. tighten the nuts 1-4-2-5-3-6 (like replacing a rim),evenly. The trick is the 2 halfmoons must fit agin the inner boss next to shaft, for max pulling pressure. Also having SIX rods keeps the pulley from deforming as it does with a 2 or 3 'jaw' puller

Sure looks like a nasty job and ,sigh, there's the OTHER one to do afterwards.

Can you use 'neverseize' on them during the install ? I do that with drive pulleys/ E-PTOs of riders cause there is ZERO clearance to get ANY kind of puller to get them off !!

Carnage would certainly be the right word for it, Ray! Thanks for your pm's and the photos. I expect that I'll end up with a similar result. I'll take some pictures.

This site brings out the best and worst in maintaining these old tractors! I am sure this will help many others avoid hours of frustration on projects like this. Havent attempted brakes yet on the WD45. 

Regards,

 Chris

I created carnage as have others - broke off enough of the drum to give me access to drive it off with an air hammer. Discovered something that made the job a lot easier: the pinion shaft diameter between the drum and the end that engages the differential is smaller than the diameter where the drum sits. So, once it's driven off that section of the shaft, the drum is loose and can be removed with one finger.

I haven't measured the old drum diameter to see how much material had been lost. Will do that tomorrow.

Here are a couple of pictures. First, the old drum out of the housing:

And the new drum in place on the shaft. I used a piece of oak stake (1"x1") to drive it on:

Thanks to all of you who have contributed to this happy outcome!

Dave

Dave

The left final drive housing and tire are back on the tractor. I'm waiting for new brake bands to arrive to see how much tighter the band is with the new drum. I'm set up to start working on the right side.

Stay tuned!

Dave

Thanks for your questions and suggestions. I really appreciate having your experience on this project!

Dave 

Hope you antiseized the shaft and the drum before installing the drum just in case ya need to get back in there in the future.  When I did my B, I antiseized everything that went together and or had threads on it!  LOL!  In my case, I don't have enough a$$ to get some of this stuff apart! 

mailto:Steve@B&B" rel="nofollow - Steve@B&B

Dave

Installing the retracting spring was lots of fun, but it got done.

I haven't done final adjustment on the band yet - need to be able to drive the tractor for that. But with the adjusting screw set much looser I can barely turn the wheel, suggesting that braking power should be much improved.

So, on to the right hand side! Contrary to my experience 10+ years ago, the drum slid right off the drive shaft so that the housing was easy to remove. And the clutch came off the pinion shaft with no work! I'm including a shot of the drum so you can see how scored it is. The replacement drum isn't perfect, but it's a ton better than this one!

Thank you to everyone who chimed in on this project. Everyone's experiences helped. Dick, I have no evidence as to whether there were two different adjusting screws, but the ones in my tractor are not threaded all the way to the head.

I'm going to start a new thread on the clutch repair as this one is getting a little long - though it can't hold a candle to Chris's WD45 project thread!  

If there's a better way, I'd love to hear it!

Dave