190xt

I guess it depends on what all you have bolted on but I can’t tell you at what the point you will need one but after the bottom comes out I can tell you, that you needed one. to do it right you need to take and cut the main caps off flat and make spacers to fit between the cap and bottom side on the girdle. Leave a few thousands between the oil pan rail and bottom side on the girdle to keep a little extra clamping force and room for silicone. I use grade 8 cat bolts threw the girdle, spacers, caps and in the block. After that’s all done it needs or should be line bored. If you don’t cut the caps off you can just use spacers out of round stock but that’s twice as much machine time. Or you can make Billit caps that are longer/ One piece to take up the room. All said and done with the spacers and line boreded I say you be just under or around 2k with the girdle and bolts line bored and read to build

Thank you for 5he input. It's a diesel. Thinking of up grading to an a-pump. Goal is 3600-4000 rpms. Running a HX40 currently.

I do have hardened rods. FPV. Also head work, pistons cut, fire ringed and hardened push rods. Cam work as well. All by FPV.

Are you able to run an intercooler?

Last year ran 51psi exh 48 psi boost.

Nope, no limits for turbo.

What kind of oil pump did you run for that?

So we oiled crank , pressure lubed cam and two turbos off that ac oil pump you need the oil pan to go with and the wide crank gear . I think I have all of those still here , might be interestedi in selling , I used the 200 twin oil filter setup to , t d off the back of it for feed to all that stuff .

I have a crank with one on it to , also have a gas crank with shorter stroke done for one also will sell cheap no longer need lol

So I have the "older" 301. A 65. Will your crank fit on my motor with out alot of machine work?
Is it a simple swap? Does it come with a dampener pulley. I'm being told that's my next worry.

Putting a newer wide gear crank drive oil pan in a older block is the question? The front timing cover backing plate needs some material removed. And an adapter for the pump to attach to and has to be right to get your gear to gear back lash.and oil pan will have to be changed or modified. As well

I had one twin-turbo setup that we ran the turbo drain right in on top of those gears thru the tach drive/ignition distributer hole in the block. We always ran 15W-40 oil and didn't have any gear wear issues BUT, I could see it if using straight 40 wt oil and not having extra lube added to the gears.

YES.

One wen your trying to make it on the block

Either an "A" pump or a "P" pump will require some grinding on the block and using three mounting bolts instead of four. And if you use a "P" pump be sure to make a mounting bracket to secure/support the rear of that long heavy pump.

Edited by DrAllis - 05 Jan 2019 at 8:25am