7060 performance parts

Does anyone out there have any performance parts, for sale, or advise on pulling with a 7060 power director tractor.   Just started pulling this year, tractor is holding together and seems to be doing well.   I am around 100 hp over stock now, hoping with some pump work, bigger injectors, and lines to be at the 300 -350 hp range for next year.   Thanks, Mike

thanks for the reply, I do not need to use it to farm anymore, I work at a diesel repair shop, the guys in the pump shop rebuilt pump last winter, turned it up as much as they could while still on the engine, I can pull it this winter, I guess they can do some internal upgrades yet, have new injector nozzle's, was also planning on sending out to be machined bigger as well, I did install a new 3lm turbo, the turbo moves air, and keeps the exhaust very clean, how ever, I do run out of fuel to keep it spooled at the end of a run.   The tractor was in at an old Allis dealer for much of the winter, it had new torque limiter clutch installed with the heaviest disc, and double spring pressure plate, also had the entire power director looked over resealed, and repaired as needed, as well as the power director valve body resealed. the tractor worked well in the field, and seemed to be good on the track, I have been able to launch in 3rd high, and shift power director both ways with out slippage.     So with what I have told you, in your opinion with a little more power, will I need to do any more drive line upgrades, or may it be ok for this year?      I have located a power director assembly out of a 7580, thinking about picking it up now, and saving it until needed.   Any thoughts?   thanks, mike

I have a core pump for you with the 3.1 head if interested. $200 9two0 25three 8192

A 7030/7040 clutch has 3 discs in low range. A 7045/7050/7060 has 4 discs in low range. Change the clutch piston on a 7030/7040 and add an extra disc. You already have a 7060, so you are at 4 discs in LOW RANGE. High range has two discs in ALL models except late 7080/7580, which can have 5 in low and 3 in high, and low range separator plates are thicker to withstand more heat before warping.

Some machining would have to happen to stuff the thicker plates in low range.

Your best Power Director clutch would be from a very late 7080 or 7580. Get the whole clutch and both drive hubs. I would consider adding the thicker plates in HIGH side to that clutch. Disc count is 5 low and 3 high.

Well, I know of one local Puller who bought the whole P.D. clutch from a salvage 7580, so they are out there.

Can you take out the power direct and install a gear box in its place? You would have to redo the clutch and get it to all line up. I think the gutless general AC 7030 did this. I know he's running a 7000 series rear end.

I did purchase a second 7060 tractor thinking I will take the director out of that and see what can be done to either fit the thicker steel plates in, or maybe come up with something else.

Existing hub isn't going to be a problem.

Any time a torque limiter is assembled, it must be centered ASAP. To center the disc, the engine has to be full throttle, transmission in a gear of 10 MPH or more, and brakes applied forcefully, trying to kill the engine. At some point before engine stall, the torque limiter will slip, immediately centering the disc to the flywheels center. Sounds like whomever did the install didn't do that. If the limiter was double-sprung, it becomes even more important to do this. Depending on the actual size of the pads, 6 pads will actually hold less torque than 4 pads when they are under the same assembled pressure. If you are serious about making high HP, you probably need to have a drive disc built for this job. Bolts up to the flywheel already centered.

You need to go back to this guy and get your twin-disc information. I've never done it like that. I'm sure a Company called High-Capacity can make you a bolt in drive disc. For your twin-disc drive, custom parts will have to be made for it as well. The clutch input shaft is only so long and if you're going to have two narrow hubs on it, those parts will have to be made.

If you look at the flywheel, it has a way of centering a bolt on drive disc. There is a machined step and 6 half-inch bolts to attach it to. Should be no problem for a builder to attach a springless drive hub to a disc.

All limiter parts are scrapped. Use existing holes in the flywheel to mount the new drive disc with hub.

Unless you're going to run over 3,000 RPM all the time, stock valve springs are fine. You will probably fail a head gasket at some point when you get much over 40 pounds of boost.