New member..grandfather's HD5

Hello all!
Finally after many years my dad is letting go of his father's 1955 HD5. This was the last small grading machine he bought new for his company in 1955. Basically the machine has probably 2000 total hours on it, undercarriage is like new, clutches good, motor great, hydraulics great. The only issue is it has sat and has had no TLC. I was probably the last person to change the oil 30 years ago and probably has a total of 15 hours on it since then.
So, I'm having it shipped from CT to TN and I'll be getting it this week. I have work to do with it(light) around my new house and I want to do some over all maintenance.
Problem is I don't know where to get filters. Oil, air, fuel...where o where can I find them?
My goal is to change oils, filters, coolant, grease rollers, idler, put oil in all the points and once I'm done with the final grading around my house I want to take her in the shop and restore her.
One issue right now is my dad took the two huge 6v out and replaced with a 12v 800CCA battery. The generator does not work and I'd like to get that rebuild if possible but can I still use the 12v battery or is that generator designed for the two huge 6v batteries?
Also, it needs a seat and arm rests. Is this something I should just build and wrap myself with some sort of covering?
Final drives do leak and one track adjustor spring is frozen...not sure what kind of job this entails but will probably have to wait for some real time to fix. It will run fine but have to avoid deep sand, mud turning.
Any advice would be much appreciated as I think I'll need plenty in the near future.
TY

So the generator cannot be rebuilt?
What is the easiest fix for this...what you did with the GM alternator? Not sure I can fab that up...?
My dad said there was some type of nozzle to oil the rollers. What type of oil do you use in those if you don't use grease? 50wt or 80/90 gear oil?
What is the easiest way to add it to the rollers?

As far as oils and coolant. I would use fleetcharge for the coolant. Are there any particular oils that I can run that are better than straight 30 wt for the motor?

How about transmission? Any new improved oil I can run?

The final drives weep. My dad has run 80/90 in them but pulls it out when he is not using it which is pretty much all the time. Is there an additive or something(brake fluid, lucas) that will swell the seal and seal it up? I remember the seals on those Allis's were always problematic. I think it led to the downfall of the 41..I know at least the larger allis's we had all had issues.

If there are any "modern/better" things I should add as far as any fluids please advise. I pretty much don't have access to the good old shops I used when I lived in the North East. I'm pretty much stuck with the auto stores, walmart, northern tool.

Have you got working guages? I'd like to get all the guages working properly but I'm at a loss as to what I can replace them with, sending units etc...?

I may be interested in the books, my dad says he has all the old books but he cannot find them right now. I'll let you know b/c I'm sure I'll need them.

The generator will work fine -if, all components are there . I was using my machine with lights and it would pull down battery and later the cutout relay went bad so as i had alternator here it was easier to put that on at no cost/.

First off, sorry for all the questions. I'm kind of in a hurry as I am in the process of building a house and if we don't get some gravel in the driveway it is going to get muddy. I have a 42hp tractor with FEL and backhoe but it does not weigh enough to cut and I need to box out around this house up to 16" in the front in order to get gravel in and have pitch away from the house. So, I'm going to try to get on this maintenance ASAP so I will not worry like crazy once I start using the dozer some. I'm not planning on working the old girl hard but just nice and slow. I probably have a day of dozing to do if all goes well. I just hate to use it and then find out later I messed something up during the course of boxing out the driveway.  Onward...

Is it worth fixing the outer final drive seals if they will just leak again? In other words has there been any improvement in the final drive seals over the years. Again, this is a 55 so it's the last year they made them(I think).

I need to know more about the zerks and where/how to put them in the outer bearings. Something I'd like to do right away.

As far as oil I'm planning on using the 15/40 and the 80/90 gear oil since I can find it anywhere.

Have any of you had issues with the spring pack on the track adjustor freezing up. My dad said it happened over 35 years ago and it would throw a track if you turned hard in deep sand or mud but as long as you go easy it is fine.
Any easy way to fix this? I imagine I need torches and more which I don't have access to anymore.

Never heard of the John Deere CORN OIL? Only place to get it is John Deer I suspect? Sounds like the best option for the rollers.

Not sure on how to put the oil in the rollers. I have one of those oil suction things you use to pull oil out of a sump..Has a plastic hose on it...Is that what I use to put oil in?

I'm still a bit concerned about where I'm going to get all and I mean all the filters. Poor thing has not had a new filter in 30 years..again it has not been run much at all but old is still old.

What do you guys think of literally draining all the oil and putting a couple gallons of Marvel Mystery oil in and letting it warm up on that and then drain it back out..just to clean it up a little on the inside..?

How about seats? I looked at some at Northern Tool today. I'd like to go original but even my dad said he never liked the stock seats and said they could always have been about 6" higher. Has anyone had experience retrofitting a "newer" seat and if so which type?

Now, on to batteries. My dad just got a 850CCA Deka battery for it. Is this adequate?
I really want to make this dozer to where it's not a hassle every time I go to start it. What is the best way to set it up so it's easy, I can get the guages going again or get new ones. I'm just not sure if the Generator is designed to charge the newer 12V battery.

About the fuel filter system; can I just buy a filter head and bypass the old stuff and add a Cat 2 micron to the setup. I've done this on my diesel pickups and it works flawlessly and the filters seperate water and are cheap. (01749 I think, $17).

I'm looking forward to having this one thing from my grandfather. Other than this I just have a harmonica so it means a lot. I'm hoping my two young boys will jump on board with learning to wrench on this much like I did growing up with heavy equipment everywhere. I'd rather see them doing this then playing video games like every other kid now a days.
I'll get pictures up as soon as I get it. Just awaiting the dispatcher to call me regarding pickup on Monday in CT.
Thanks for all the replies fellas!

The John Deere grease is "CORN HEAD GREASE." Not to be confused with corn oil. That does sound to me like a pretty good idea. As far as the battery, the generator will charge the one big 12 volt battery just as easily as 2 sixes in a series if (as coke says) all of the components are functional. Oh, the John Deere grease would have to be bought at a John deere dealer. Darrel

The concerns you have about your grandfathers HD5 are common and have been covered in the past on this forum. There was considerable discussion about the frozen track adjusters. If you need to tighten the chain to get work done now there are several ways to avoid throwing the chain. You can install shims between the yoke and the front idler bracket, you can raise the support roller or lower the truck rollers with shims. I am curious about the cost of shipping the HD5 a long distance. I have found machines I would like but I didn't consider them because of shipping. Did you find a reasonable long distance shipper?

From just sitting static for a long time the seals may weep , it depends if the boots on the seal spring area is damaged or what else might be wrong. The seal itself is 2 brass plates which are held together by a spring plate that is enclosed by a rubber boot. This assembly is bonded to the seal base and held in place with 3 dowel pins. 

I have been using the 90/120 in everything except trany . think the Universal fluid might be a little thing for the trany but it might work or add something like STP to it to make it cling better. 

Here is a picture of the outboard seal from my HD6G. Somethin got in there and cut the boot.

Wow, I definitely need to check them when I get the 5. I have never seen them apart on any of our old dozers. 

Edited by heron - 02 Dec 2012 at 6:38pm

Heron
I sugest that when you get the HD5 home you check that everything that needs oil or greese has it. Then use the machine. Do not be too quict to take it appart because replacement parts take time to find. When you get a parts book look at the seal assembly. The AC seals are like a clutch with 2 lubricated steel rings that try to keep the oil inside. The boot covers the spring assembly. The spring assembly is like the pressure plate on a clutch. I understand you were thinking of an automotive crankshaft or wheel bearing seal when you asked about swelling the seals.

Use your machine. Check the lubrication often. The parts you have to repair will become apparent. Post pictures. Good luck

When you deal with hydraulic oil try to empty the hydraulic tank because over the years there is probably a lot of condensation and dirt in the bottom of the tank. I have an electric pump from an old pressure washer with a filter on the output. The pump input is a hose that I can use like a vacuum cleaner in the bottom of the tank. You can reuse the oil if you allow the dirt and water to settle out.

   Sounds like you have a really nice machine there.Have always run 85-140 gear oil in my transmission.As for the filters Cokes picture looks like what was original,but was thinking the number was CP4 but I do know was the same as Ford 8n tractor.The primary fuel filter is the same as oil unless it has been changed. The secondary fuel filter was originally a sock type,but after looking I think Fram C1173PL is what I have been using.Bin lucky and have not had much water in that ones tank lately.If you have 45 PSI leave it alone,just drain water from tank before each us if not used often.Also have always used a lite grease in the rollers rather than oil.If they are OEM rollers they have a bearing rather than a bushing, so it is better to have the tool pump new clean grease into the bearing.Don't know were you would find a new one though.Any non foaming oil will work for hydraulics.
   For a cheap seat a piece of 3/4 plywood, foam from old sofa or mattress,some heavy canvas or vinyl and a staple gun, fold like raping a package. And as Coke said for arm rests.Gauges are generic until you get to the restoration,any mechanical from auto parts store. If it is important the old can be rebuilt,but something like $500 a pop.As for the battery here everyone uses one 12 volt.I used the pulley from the generator on the alternator when I changed.
  Under stand how you feel about this tractor as I would like to get my grandfather's first tractor.Ninety year old aunt by marriage will not sell so far.Her grand kids will  likely cut it up for scrape.Good luck with your project.
Ray

Ray, forgot to ask about the rollers...I don't have the stem/nozzle for the rollers as my dad has misplaced it. :((
Any idea what to use to put oil in the rollers since it probably has not been done since 1962.
I've got tubes of corn head grease on the way(8) that go into a grease gun. I also found a 000 grease/oil today, old stock from this lube company but we couldn't figure out how to pump it in to the rollers without spending $200 on a pump that would fit the 5 gallon pail and pump something like that.

Yes, I just spoke to my dad and he swears he never put it in that way...must have been a senior moment. Anyway the cup is still on top as the spring is missing also that goes on the bottom...probably why someone installed it wrong back in the say...they must have lost the spring.
I may just get a Napa 4770 filter head and run a large cat filter on it. The Primary filter and parts are gone and my dad does not remember where he put the parts. Question is if does the filter head have to be level with the bottom of the fuel tank? If it does can I run a small lift pump to help keep pressure in the system..only about 3-4psi.

The oil filter; where can I cut and mount a filter head for that? I would like to eliminate the old large one on the left side of the machine and use an updated better filter.

On the rollers; how can I fill them if I don't use the corn head grease?  Can I use a funnel with a flexible tube? Will the rollers take about a cartridge of grease each if I use the corn head?

Great advice on the shifter. I don't have any way to weld or fab something up so I'll see what I can do b/c it definitely needs help.

Also good advice on the air filter as my order is air, fuel, oil, coolant, transmission, hydraulic tank cleaned,  rollers, working temp guage, seals on piston(?). seat, generator...

All gems of experience with these things are welcome. I don't mind doing the work...I actually miss it but I hate having to figure things out when I still don't have the right manuals(dad is sending them) and I'm fixing things that should never have been let go!

What year machines do you all have? The online manual I have been using is not accurate and Allis didn't seem to make a differing year manual...? This machine was produced at the end of the HD5 series.


Edited by heron - 06 Dec 2012 at 10:27pm