As far as generator finding a good cutout relay is the main problem and not the generator . I changed out the generator to a 10SI alternator but had to make my own front pulley from a cast iron pulley from a alternator from 70 series GM truck and opening up belt area to accept a wider belt. The generator is a 12 V and does not care what is down line as long as it accepts 12 V.

 Rollers , front idler, and top roller all take oil and not grease to lube the Timken bearings, they are not gun grease. 

 Oil filter and the fuel filter should have the number of the filter needed stamped into the cover plate. I used filters from early Chrysler product when I could not find the Fram filters i needed. 

 The battery box covers or arm rests are something you will have to make yourself. I raised the seat platform about 4" to make it easier to fit into position for comfort when operating. I also built a plywood box about 2" high and attached to the metal plates over battery boxes. Over the years these deteriorated so i just use plain metal plates now for covers. 

 I have a couple of photo-copies of the HD5 manual left to sell if you do not have the manual . cover service and repair of full machine, from the 2-71 engine to the track and tractor itself. 

 I use a 15/40 Rotella oil in engine, transmission can use SAE 50 or a oil with a 1200 SSU rating or 85/120 gear oil . Final drives also a 90/120 gear oil. As your temp range there is not as extreme as it is here in MN the heavier weight should work. 

 On the rollers and under carriage there is a plug on the center of the retaining cap remove that and insert a small tube into center of roller then pump in oil form a grease gun like pump until it flows out around the tube - then replace plug.

 Leaks from the final drive area can be a problem - as can the lube in the outboard bearing on the axle shaft (bearing bolted to truck frame). Early axles were drilled to allow oil to flow to this bearing . I have seen many machines where a standard grease zerk has been added to this bearing for lube.   

 Changing the seals is a job as the truck frame has to come off or the frame cut near the rear bearing . On a dozer it isn't as hard as it is on HD5G loader .

 The grease he is talking about corn head grease is a #00 or #000 semi-fluid grease. You would use a standard grease gun filled with this and a tube small enough to fit inside hole in roller when the plug is removed- You then run pipe or tube into center of roller and pump in fluid until it comes out around tube . 

the battery should be fine in that size - remember way back a high amp battery was large size - they have gotten smaller and more power from batteries with new technology .

 No need to run clean up solution through engine - just run good oil and change it. 

If you look back through this listing of posts you will also find a lot of information on the HD5 as it is a popular post . The HD6 has the same track, sprockets, rollers, seals in the udrcarriage. 

 One thing is to be sure the leak on seals is not from loose sprocket as you can be in for big problems down the line if 

 As far as outboard bearing there are a couple ways to get grease to it, there is a flat spot on the housing where a grease zerk can be drilled and tapped into or the outer cover can be drilled and tapped but a guard needs to be welder on to protect the zerk

 That Fram C 3 filter is what I use to be able to get easily at Farm Supply store - Chrysler product oil filter. I used it both on fuel and on oil .

 Those PH8A filters in the other picture are the bracket I made up to use spin on filters now. 

 That other white filter material in 10 Micron filter tubes that I cut down to make 2 filters for the one on engine , use them rather than the honeycomb woven filters as had a problem finding them. (Some oil burner guns use them )

 For the rollers the GL1 should work also to fill them . 

Be sure to clean out the cup on the air cleaner - it is a oil bath unit and you will probably find the cup full of dirt . A #30 engine oil or that hydraulic oil will work fine there . Clean out pre-cleaner cup also. 

 A sloppy shift lever has a couple problems and can be fixed. If you remover the boot over shift tower then the 2 - 15/16 head bolts on each side the shifting lever will lift out of case. Inside you will find a bushing and a pin which attach to the shift pin which has a ball end. That cross pin wears or breaks, the bushing wears, and the bolts which have a turned end wear. 

 I made up a new bushing , new bolts with longer reach, new cross pin which is larger size and ground 2 flats into it . The hole for the cross pin in the shift pin were fitted to new cross pin size. So now the bolts reach the cross pin and keep it from moving and tension on pin is set by shims under bolt heads.

 I welded up the ball end and ground back so it fits tighter into shift rails. 

Lever now moves side to side for gear selection, and fwd and back - but no slop in other directions or turning to jump out of rails. 

 As the 2-71 uses a engine driven gear pump to pressurize the injectors - no lift pump should be needed - if this pump is worn - you will not have right pressure to injectors and proper flow for cooling as well as for running. Should have around 40 PSI through system.

 I bought a mechanical gauge for a IH tractor from TSC and have had it in for 30 years now and still works fine. I replaced the fuel pressure gauge with a Stewart Warner mechanical gauge- You need a restriction in line (snubber) or the gauge will pulse as fuel moves through system. 

 Some filters like the ones used on HD4 diesel have primary and secondary in same can but I would not do away with the 2 filters unless you are sure the new one has that . Rebuilt HV7 Detroit injectors can be expensive IF.

 The machine used 2 canisters mounted on left side of engine for oil and fuel filters and 1 canister on right side of engine for fuel . 

 The round canister on back Rt side is lube filter . 

Both those machine are Down Under - AU

 

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the ram does not need to be removed to replace the ram end packing. if the cylinder leaks down, then the inside gland packing needs to be replaced whic requires complete cylinder disassembly.

 

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I've got all the manuals but I'm not sure on some things. I did add some universal hydraulic/transmission fluid to it. Not sure if that is what did it but as I posted earlier the valve for the blade has been leaking out of the seal on the top under where it swivels. 

Could it be... 1 The fluid is too thin?  2. The fluid is over filled? Should I open up the butterfly on the tank to let the fluid weep out?

My goal this week is to take the blade off and move it under an RV port. Then I plan on changing out the Hydraulic fluid  with fresh fluid, adjusting the clutch band on one side and sizing up track removal.

To make this machine perfect: Replace final drive seals, fix track adjustors and fix loose linkage in transmission.

Are the final drive seals do-able for someone who has no torch? I just purchased some large impact sockets(1-2"), I do have 1/2 impact but nothing larger. I'm planning on getting some additional larger wrenches and some socket adapters to adapt from 1/2" to 3/4". 

Other than a bottle jack (20ton) what else should I have in tools to make this happen?

With the tools in mind where can I find the seals and other parts to fix this machine up?

I during this discussion you guys asked for pics. I do have some pics and will try to attach.  Thanks for any help with this! Aaron

As for the final drive seals, you need some large tools to get things apart.  Start with breaking the track (takes a very large hammer and drift punch at the master pin with backing behind the chain so it doesn't bounce when you hit it). It's better to break the chain near the drive sprocket and lay it out ahead of the machine so that you can roll the under carriage ahead on the track chain (may need to jack the frame of the crawler higher to clear some of the truck frame as you roll it ahead, be aware the truck frame alone is probably around 1500 pounds on a 5 roller long frame for a loader.  Then when you get the outboard bearing housing and seals off (recommend replacing the outboard seal when you reassemble), you'll need a very large wrench to get the sprocket nut off (I don't remember what the size is since we made our own wrench, but the torque spec is 1500 foot pounds).  You'll also need a big puller (most likely will need a port-a-power) to break the sprocket loose too since it is seated on tapered splines.  After getting the sprocket off, it's a fairly easy process to remove the final drive seal then and replace.  Make sure you get the drive sprocket properly torqued again when going together too, mine were both loose and had ruined the axles.

My main concern is to buy a bunch of things and then find when it comes right down to it doing anything serious with this machine at this point is just too much for my budget. From what my dad and grandfather said the final drives on the AC were always issues and that eventually they always leak. 

I appreciate the input and will try to find out more about the STP in the 5 gallon pails. TY!

I prefer 40w for Detroits as they get thin on lube anyway, 30w is fine for cooler weather.   Most of the engines I worked on were worn slick, the heavier oil helped keep some lubrication when the engines heated up.

I get my Baldwin filters online the Filter Associates, they have had all the oddball Allis specific filters I have needed to date.

I got the blade off today, pressure washed her up, I've never seen this machine so clean. The old yellow paint job(my dad did in 71) was flaking off and I found the HD5 AC Diesel on the back of the fuel tank. I know my grandfather would be happy. 

Now the bad, when I went to move the machine into the RV port noticed lots of oil coming out the bottom. Turns out one of the oil lines from the lubefiner oil filter canister rotted away and opened up under the floor pan. So, spent the good part of the evening removing the lines from the 90 right under the battery on the left up to the engine. All original stuff, never had a wrench on it in it's lifetime. 

Here is a question: Can I replace the metal lines with rubber tranny lines as the original lines literally came apart when I tried to work them out from under the clutch lever. 

OR, would the machine be better served if I eliminate the large lubefiner filter and mount a new oil filter head and use and updated oil filter? If so, any suggestions on filter head size and micron ratings I should look for in a filter? 

A few years back when I got the dozer I learned from a member the final drives seals won't expand with brake fluid.  I wish there was an easier fix. 

This machine really has lots of life left, not to mention it's not all beat up like many I've seen over the years. I'm just hoping I can get the tracks off and fix those seals. 

I'm also really afraid the track adjustors will take a lot without the right setup(torches esp.) I think when I start to try to turn the nuts things will begin to round off pretty quickly. 

Any advice would be appreciated fellas! 

Not sure what you are replying too. I've got a large primary Cat filter I installed under the seat. Are you saying the Baldwin 906 will go in the original fuel filter housing on the motor? Currently I have nothing in there. If memory serves on this thread I posted I was missing a spring or something in the factory secondary fuel filter.. 

 I'll have to look over the track removal as my dad says they always had torches and things to work on the machines. Closest thing I have is a hand held torch. 

I think the spool leakage is because the hydraulic was over filled before the machine was delivered to me. When I opened up the butterfly on the tank lots of fluid came out. It still seems to be leaking but I'm hoping it's residual from the over fill. Plus it was filled with the univeral tractor fluid, I'm not sure if that stuff is too thin for this machine.. plus it was mixed with who knows what and it's been in there for at least 50 years. One of my simple goals was to change out the hydraulic but now I have to fix my oil filter lines. 

I've got a mobile mechanic coming to take a look at it Thurs morning. Not sure if that will work out as my wife is on my case about dumping money into something that I don't and will not use.