How do you turn HD-3 track adjusters?

 No easy way when they have not been turned or lubed for long time. Its all heavy labor and lot of works not used in polite conversation.

 Unless the track is extremely tight you should be able to drive out pins without slackening to much. Then once track is off you can work on adjuster .

 I have a 36" Ridgid pipe wrench with a 3" bow in the handle where the 10' length of pipe put to much pressure on it . That was after the first jaw busted and i got the replacement jaw installed .  

 One side is easy as force is downward to screw it out and then clean it but other side where you have to lift or pull up leads one to find another way of working on it. 

 I made a wrench out of 3/4 plate and welded two 1 1/2 pin stock to it so i can put pipe onto that . Pins are welded at 2 different angles to allow second grip on my homemade wrench.

To simplify matters and knowing in advance that I was going to fabricate new -yes I mean brand new adjusters, I simply walked a generator out to the machine - plugged in my Milwaukee Sawzall  with a high speed steel hack saw blade and cut the adjuster right at the area where the B7 threaded rods begins and the hex stock material begins. I then removed the yolk and rod as a whole and proceeded to my wood stove/forge.  

I placed the whole unit on a beautiful bed of hard rock maples coals that were releasing a nice blue flame.  I heated the entirety to a dull orange and removed the assembly.  Working quickly, I immersed the entirety of the yolk and frozen B7 rod into a vat of used motor oil.   Note: This causes an extremely violent reaction and advice is that you must wear protective gear for your body and face.  Guarantee that this method will free the oxidized rod from the bore of the yolk.  Also recommend if you use this method make sure the vat of used oil is out in your driveway say on crushed stone and away from the primary garage or house structure due to possible fire hazard.  I normally wait on a detail like this until a cold winter day. 

You can skip the immersion in a vat of waste oil and go from the wood stove/forge directly to a large vice and turn the B7 out of the yolk, it will squeeeeeek like he-- but will turn out of the bore just the same. 

Sometimes I like to experiment so I did the dipped the yolk and rod into a 35 gallon vat of waste oil I have for just such occasions.  It helps if you pretend your going to the ice cream shop and ask the clerk to dip the vanilla cone in chocolate.  The hot forge dip in waste oil method worked better for me than turn in a vise with no lubricant. 

If cost is a consideration and funds are not in the budget you could do the above and just re weld the section you cut and  clean, grease and reuse.  I have some other tips for you to consider if you wish to read about them.   

Hope this is of help to you and others, be safe and good luck!  Orangeman

Side note: If you proceed with replacement of the B7 rod please make sure you know what size you need as within the production period of the H-3 the early rod diameter is 1.250" late B7 rod is 1.500".

Please let us know how you make out with this detail.

 To get caught up on ya'lls post.. The yolks on mine have a grease fitting on the side to grease the inside of the threaded part, i just assumed they came that way but since you guys are suggesting to add one i guess last owner added these. I will guarantee you one thing, while this thing is apart i will be adding another on the back side a little further back so that it greases it more than just in that one spot.

 I bought a mill and a lathe a while back but haven't set them up to be able to use them yet in anticipation of leasing some warehouse space in town. I'm also pretty green on the machining end but could probably manage turn turn the threaded portion and order some hex stock from a friend if i end up having to cut these.  

 I haven't had time to go pick a scrap piece of heavy plate to make a good wide jawed wrench out of and i'm realizing making one like Coke mentioned earlier is going to be a must because i have already sprung my only two 1 1/2" wrenches. 

 Orangeman where did you get your materials for your adjusters from?

 I have found a guy about 45 minutes from me that says he has a machine he would sell me as a parts machine for about $1,500. Said he seized the motor using ether to start it and says that it is mostly complete. All this was talked about over the phone so it might be a decent machine or it may have a tree growing through the middle of it. It sounded a little high to me but since i'm needed shuttle parts and possibly adjuster parts it might be worth it to have as a donor machine? What do you guys think?

The $1500 may not be too bad if shipping is included in the deal.  I have forked over 9 bills for a seized H-3 but the bottom was new. Sheet metal was rough, but balance of machine was whole and complete with manual blade/outside pushbeam. Had to pay another $400 shipping to get it to my place, 130 miles and hilly conditions. Engine cylinders on 2 and 3 were full to the gills with water. Like Dads said a transmission part may be valuable in the event you need one.   I tested an H-3 this summer an old timer hand for sale had a new chain and plate, ran only on high idle and bottom roller were completely shot.  Wanted $3,500 but passed on it due to bad rolls and front idlers needed help.  It sold the following day.  Guess in the end it really depends on how complete the machine is and how bad you need it.  Good luck on your track adjusters.  

Thank-you Orangeman

Often times for me, I decide on spending the money as I feel the value of my time for family and work is more important.   The flip side of course is that there is nothing more valuable then doing something yourself and learning as a result.  

On all  of the 50 year old H 3 machines I have seen the adjusters are just completely hammered, threads shot, seized in the bore, bent or broken.  Seems much simpler to me to cut, fabricate new then move on.  Say nothing about the future dependability that will be offered when you go to work or tighten the track.  

Never done or even considered the T-handle approach as I like to keep things OEM.  If I do make a part new I prepare engineering blueprints for the part for future reference and for potential design modification. 

Good luck on your project and your house renovation.

Allis used and OTC 7000 hydraulic press for removing the master pins- also Wolf Trackmaster has something similar I believe. 

 You can use heat also on track link to help with initial breaking loose. 

Track press is a must for splitting other links but that is when track is flat and in a position to work on . Dies hold the track in place for the press to move the pins. 

 Heating both sides of links in that section of track and using a punch I welded a long rod onto, for second person to hold . I also used another piece of plate to keep the punch centered on the pin. Then using a heavy maul and swing with lot of force I got the pin to move.

 When installing the pin back I used STP as a lube when driving it back in. I also used the same pipe to block the link when installing as track will bounce.