No easy way when they have not been turned or lubed for long time. Its all heavy labor and lot of works not used in polite conversation.

 Unless the track is extremely tight you should be able to drive out pins without slackening to much. Then once track is off you can work on adjuster .

 I have a 36" Ridgid pipe wrench with a 3" bow in the handle where the 10' length of pipe put to much pressure on it . That was after the first jaw busted and i got the replacement jaw installed .  

 One side is easy as force is downward to screw it out and then clean it but other side where you have to lift or pull up leads one to find another way of working on it. 

 I made a wrench out of 3/4 plate and welded two 1 1/2 pin stock to it so i can put pipe onto that . Pins are welded at 2 different angles to allow second grip on my homemade wrench.

To simplify matters and knowing in advance that I was going to fabricate new -yes I mean brand new adjusters, I simply walked a generator out to the machine - plugged in my Milwaukee Sawzall  with a high speed steel hack saw blade and cut the adjuster right at the area where the B7 threaded rods begins and the hex stock material begins. I then removed the yolk and rod as a whole and proceeded to my wood stove/forge.  

I placed the whole unit on a beautiful bed of hard rock maples coals that were releasing a nice blue flame.  I heated the entirety to a dull orange and removed the assembly.  Working quickly, I immersed the entirety of the yolk and frozen B7 rod into a vat of used motor oil.   Note: This causes an extremely violent reaction and advice is that you must wear protective gear for your body and face.  Guarantee that this method will free the oxidized rod from the bore of the yolk.  Also recommend if you use this method make sure the vat of used oil is out in your driveway say on crushed stone and away from the primary garage or house structure due to possible fire hazard.  I normally wait on a detail like this until a cold winter day. 

You can skip the immersion in a vat of waste oil and go from the wood stove/forge directly to a large vice and turn the B7 out of the yolk, it will squeeeeeek like he-- but will turn out of the bore just the same. 

Sometimes I like to experiment so I did the dipped the yolk and rod into a 35 gallon vat of waste oil I have for just such occasions.  It helps if you pretend your going to the ice cream shop and ask the clerk to dip the vanilla cone in chocolate.  The hot forge dip in waste oil method worked better for me than turn in a vise with no lubricant. 

If cost is a consideration and funds are not in the budget you could do the above and just re weld the section you cut and  clean, grease and reuse.  I have some other tips for you to consider if you wish to read about them.   

Hope this is of help to you and others, be safe and good luck!  Orangeman

Side note: If you proceed with replacement of the B7 rod please make sure you know what size you need as within the production period of the H-3 the early rod diameter is 1.250" late B7 rod is 1.500".

Please let us know how you make out with this detail.

I will likely build new track adjusters for my 6 with stainless steel hex stock and brand new B7 threaded rod.  

Hilltop: You asked about cost for the new adjusters - I think I paid about $150 for two, included the hex stock, cutting to length, machining a pilot numb on the end so it fit nicely into the spring housing plate and welding new B7 into the hexstock.  These came out very nice, at $75 each I believe I saved myself a lot of grief and agony.  

I also did what dozer did on his yolk and added grease fittings to the area  where the rod threads into the yoke.  I also fitted a pipe plug to the end of the yolk, brazed in place and filled it with grease, should keep contaminants out of the vital threaded area for many many years to come.  

As a general comment, if one evaluates other brands - say Caterpillar you will see that from a design standpoint, that the area of the track adjuster was covered to keep the adjuster relatively clean.  Allis did not use this "cover" feature on the smaller machines. As a matter of fact, it pays dividends to evaluate other machines for designs features that could be applied with a little machining and inginuity that would help improve functionality and maintenance on these fine little Allis Crawlers.  

Given the solid design that these machines had from the start, (credit Van Dobeus, Craig Cannon, William Bryant) there is every reason to believe that these machines with reasonable care and used within its design criteria will last a man a lifetime.  

Well - eyes are getting tired, time to hit the sack.  Hope this is of some help. Orangeman

 To get caught up on ya'lls post.. The yolks on mine have a grease fitting on the side to grease the inside of the threaded part, i just assumed they came that way but since you guys are suggesting to add one i guess last owner added these. I will guarantee you one thing, while this thing is apart i will be adding another on the back side a little further back so that it greases it more than just in that one spot.

 I bought a mill and a lathe a while back but haven't set them up to be able to use them yet in anticipation of leasing some warehouse space in town. I'm also pretty green on the machining end but could probably manage turn turn the threaded portion and order some hex stock from a friend if i end up having to cut these.  

 I haven't had time to go pick a scrap piece of heavy plate to make a good wide jawed wrench out of and i'm realizing making one like Coke mentioned earlier is going to be a must because i have already sprung my only two 1 1/2" wrenches. 

 Orangeman where did you get your materials for your adjusters from?

 I have found a guy about 45 minutes from me that says he has a machine he would sell me as a parts machine for about $1,500. Said he seized the motor using ether to start it and says that it is mostly complete. All this was talked about over the phone so it might be a decent machine or it may have a tree growing through the middle of it. It sounded a little high to me but since i'm needed shuttle parts and possibly adjuster parts it might be worth it to have as a donor machine? What do you guys think?

The $1500 may not be too bad if shipping is included in the deal.  I have forked over 9 bills for a seized H-3 but the bottom was new. Sheet metal was rough, but balance of machine was whole and complete with manual blade/outside pushbeam. Had to pay another $400 shipping to get it to my place, 130 miles and hilly conditions. Engine cylinders on 2 and 3 were full to the gills with water. Like Dads said a transmission part may be valuable in the event you need one.   I tested an H-3 this summer an old timer hand for sale had a new chain and plate, ran only on high idle and bottom roller were completely shot.  Wanted $3,500 but passed on it due to bad rolls and front idlers needed help.  It sold the following day.  Guess in the end it really depends on how complete the machine is and how bad you need it.  Good luck on your track adjusters.  

Thank-you Orangeman

 I may very well end up buying the parts machine because the only shuttle clutch parts i've found so far was a whole shuttle clutch pack for $500+ shipping from MI to TN so there goes over a third of what the whole parts machine would run. Now my only issue is trying to get the money gathered up without my wife finding out since we are cash flowing a major renovation on the house we got and our apartment lease is up in May. Needless to say i really don't need to take the money away from the house project but i sure hate to miss out on getting this machine.

 Hydraulic adjusters.....? that would be super nice because my hatred level for these adjusters is ever increasing. I wonder if something off of one of the small Komatsu or Dresser dozers wouldn't be to big a deal to retrofit.. My dozer is a 6way blade machine so i have plans in the back of my head to replace the multi stick controls with one of the single stick T-bar type controls. I can't imagine it being all that difficult to do. Anyone done this before?

Often times for me, I decide on spending the money as I feel the value of my time for family and work is more important.   The flip side of course is that there is nothing more valuable then doing something yourself and learning as a result.  

On all  of the 50 year old H 3 machines I have seen the adjusters are just completely hammered, threads shot, seized in the bore, bent or broken.  Seems much simpler to me to cut, fabricate new then move on.  Say nothing about the future dependability that will be offered when you go to work or tighten the track.  

Never done or even considered the T-handle approach as I like to keep things OEM.  If I do make a part new I prepare engineering blueprints for the part for future reference and for potential design modification. 

Good luck on your project and your house renovation.

 What kind of a press does one use to press the master pin out of the track rails? I got after it pretty good with a hammers and drift i made up with a handle on it but it seems like it might be boogering the end of the pin a little bit and i'm afraid this will cause trouble when i get it to start moving. I mean are master pin press pretty generic? I have a few friends that have owned and worked on several smaller dozers so one of them may have a pin press if they aren't really brand specific?

Allis used and OTC 7000 hydraulic press for removing the master pins- also Wolf Trackmaster has something similar I believe. 

 You can use heat also on track link to help with initial breaking loose. 

Track press is a must for splitting other links but that is when track is flat and in a position to work on . Dies hold the track in place for the press to move the pins. 

Coke, I did grind a bevel on two pieces of plate to drive in between the link and sprocket while driving it out... Would that accomplish the same thing as you are talking about? Or should i moved the tracks around to the middle and block it up with pipe like you are saying? The plate i drove in there seems to take the spring out of it. I will keep working at it until something happens though lol. Also i heated the link and heard a good bit of popping and pinging and it seemed to loosen up a little but i only got to beat on it for a few minutes after that.

 I'm out of town with work this week so it may be next week before i see it again.

 Heating both sides of links in that section of track and using a punch I welded a long rod onto, for second person to hold . I also used another piece of plate to keep the punch centered on the pin. Then using a heavy maul and swing with lot of force I got the pin to move.

 When installing the pin back I used STP as a lube when driving it back in. I also used the same pipe to block the link when installing as track will bounce. 

 Randal, I wondered about a bottle jack.. I reckon that would accomplish the same thing as building plates for a Hydraulic cylinder. I've rebuilt old motorcycle crankshafts which are very similar but with them you can move them around however needed to get them in a press.. Hopefully i'll get a chance to work on it a bit this weekend depending when i get back in town.

 A track press is quite a piece of equipment with dies to hold link and cross ram to push out pins, then figure they push the bushing out of side link also. 

 They say to replace the master pin each time it is removed but seems many people just turn it 180 and reuse it . 

 Thats where you build that guide pipe to bolt onto track link to keep the punch on the pin and weld the long handle onto punch , it's hard to hit the punch when the holder has his eyes closed and is shaking all over in fear. 

Don in WA.

 

Luke

 I didn't really get to spend much time on the dozer this weekend but Coke, i blocked up the back side of the link with some heavy tubing that the pin will fit inside of and i got the pin to budge a little bit but like i said i didn't have much time. At least it moved a little and makes me really want to stay in town and take off work this week to work on it but i guess that doesn't pay the bills.

Thanks for posting the picture.  Gives us some more good ideas. 

 Heres the wrench i got to modify to a track adjuster wrench. It's pretty heavy and since it's just plain uncoated steel it should weld good.

 The time i had set up to look at the parts machine the guy said he would sell got pushed back to 3 this afternoon so i'm still not sure what i have found. The last phone conversation left me thinking this may not be quite as complete as i first thought. I guess since the guy has multiple running machines that he fixed up, i should have counted on some things not being there lol. I'll see whats there and report back this evening.

 I went to look at those machines this afternoon. He had 2 runners (one HD3 and one H3 both 6way 3 point machines) and an HD3 loader & HD3 dozer parts machines. The parts machines are very incomplete and pretty dismantled but still a lot of good stuff there i think. I was really just after the dozer but it wasn't as complete as i had hoped and if basically if i want all the parts that i would like to have he wants me to buy both of them. He made me a pretty fair price on the pair so i think i'm going to go ahead and pick them up. Theres enough stuff there to fix my dozer and put the loader together or save some of the loader for spare parts and sell off the rest. It's more than i really want to give for them but i think i will be happy with my decision next time something breaks down and i only have to go to the shed for the part.

  The guy had one more machine that was pretty neat, it was an HD-3 "orchard" with the seat hanging off the back and controls moved rearward. I'm sure you guys have seen (or owned) one before but i thought it was pretty neat. It was partially disassembled but he said he got everything to build it back and it didn't seem like it had seen all that many hours in it's life. I'll keep everyone posted and if for some reason i decide not to go through with it i'll see if the guy minds me handing his phone number out. Hopefully i'll have arrangements made to get them to my place sometime in the next week.

Know if I could only retire, wake when I want and play in the fields and wood lot - I'd be a happy man.