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twinson 
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Joined: 17 Aug 2019
Location: IL
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 Topic: D17 foot clutch side to side play
Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 5:21pm |
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Is there a good fix for a D17 that has a foot clutch pedal that has excessive left to right play?
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AC720Man
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
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Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 5:28pm |
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I drilled mine out and put a bushing in it. Solved the problem. Series 1
Edited by AC720Man - 28 Oct 2023 at 5:28pm
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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DrAllis
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Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 5:43pm |
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Series 4 has a brass bushing. Replace it and it will improve things.
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twinson
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Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 5:51pm |
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What about Series I, II or III?
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twinson
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Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 5:52pm |
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What is the correct ID of the bushing?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 5:55pm |
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Part number from AGCO 70235082 takes two bushings. Prior to chassis s/n 24001 there were no bushings. One would have to drill out the clutch pedal to accept bushings.
Edited by DrAllis - 28 Oct 2023 at 5:58pm
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Alex09(WI)
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Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 6:36pm |
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If your clutch pedal doesn't have any bushings, your pin is prolly worn as well. However the pin can only be replaced when splittin gthe tractor in front of transmission.
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KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY
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DrAllis
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Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 7:28pm |
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If you are capable with the right tooling, you can remove the old pedal shaft without a split, but it takes some patience. Many times, new bushings correct the problem enough to just call it good enough, especially if you install a grease zerk to keep future wear at bay. Remove the left platform to get room to work. Get the clutch pedal off and wire the clutch rod up and out of the way. Center punch the shaft dead center and start drilling holes. A drill with a "level bubble" works best for up/down positioning and you can visualize left/right. Start with probably an 1/8" hole and get in about an inch. Work yourself up to I think a 7/16" hole and continue drilling deep until you break thru on the inside. You'll hit the detent spring for the PTO lever, which is in a 3/8" pocket hole. If you are centered and straight, you'll hit the end of the spring and continue in compressing it a little so it can be retrieved with a magnet. After the spring, use the magnet to remove the detent ball and any shavings from drilling. Pretty sure the 7/16" hole you made will then accept a 1/2" NC thread tap. Grease the tap and make some 1/2" NC threads and then connect a big slide hammer to remove the pivot pin. Be sure to measure the pivot pin length exposed to position it exactly at the same depth it was when you reinstall it. Weld up and machine your old pin to size. Press back in with a big hammer and loctite to the EXACT same depth. Protect the pins end from swelling damage. Before installation, fabricate a slug to go in the 7/16" hole and plug the end of the pivot pin with a 1/2" bolt and loctitie. This must be done to put pressure on your PTO lever detent ball spring. Drive the pin in too far and the PTO lever will push/pull hard, so use Mr. Slidehammer to pull back out one or two licks. Is this easy ?? Nope. But if you don't want to split a tractor, it can be done.
Edited by DrAllis - 28 Oct 2023 at 10:03pm
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captaindana
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Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 6:02am |
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Holy Moley Doc you are incredible as usual!
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Blue Skies and Tail Winds
Dana
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 6:24am |
yeesh,and here I was thinking a bunch of washers as 'shims' might take up the 'lefty-righty' slop.
The docs way is better, but I'd be back in the field before I read the whole proceedure
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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DrAllis
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Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 7:44am |
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Remembering how A-C did those two bushings, there was a gap in the middle, which hardly ever wore on the shaft. I think I stuck 3 bushings in one tractor years ago and trimmed off the excess bushing sticking out. A grease zerk really helps make thinks last, but engineers were all about minimal daily upkeep.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 12:33pm |
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I did like Dr Allis suggested on my D 15 . Three bushings and cut off the excess . Worked for me . Good luck !
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AC720Man
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Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 1:21pm |
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I made a mistake, I drilled out the pedal on my WD and installed a bushing. On my D17, I replaced the bushings. I realized it when I went to feed today and looked at both tractors.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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DrAllis
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Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 1:26pm |
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I've run into some pretty nasty D-17 clutch pedals that drag against the platform. I'm kinda anal about seat suspensions and clutch/brake pedal conditions.
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Ryan Renko
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Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 7:04pm |
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When I replaced the brass bushings in my Series IV clutch pedal I drilled and tapped threads and put in a grease zerk. I thought it wouldn't hurt. Ryan
Edited by Ryan Renko - 29 Oct 2023 at 7:04pm
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Allis dave
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Posted: 30 Oct 2023 at 7:59am |
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RWTool on here was rebuilding WD45 pedals. He might we able to do a D17 for you if you're unable.
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Alex09(WI)
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Posted: 30 Oct 2023 at 8:23am |
 DrAllis wrote:
If you are capable with the right tooling, you can remove the old pedal shaft without a split, but it takes some patience. Many times, new bushings correct the problem enough to just call it good enough, especially if you install a grease zerk to keep future wear at bay. Remove the left platform to get room to work. Get the clutch pedal off and wire the clutch rod up and out of the way. Center punch the shaft dead center and start drilling holes. A drill with a "level bubble" works best for up/down positioning and you can visualize left/right. Start with probably an 1/8" hole and get in about an inch. Work yourself up to I think a 7/16" hole and continue drilling deep until you break thru on the inside. You'll hit the detent spring for the PTO lever, which is in a 3/8" pocket hole. If you are centered and straight, you'll hit the end of the spring and continue in compressing it a little so it can be retrieved with a magnet. After the spring, use the magnet to remove the detent ball and any shavings from drilling. Pretty sure the 7/16" hole you made will then accept a 1/2" NC thread tap. Grease the tap and make some 1/2" NC threads and then connect a big slide hammer to remove the pivot pin. Be sure to measure the pivot pin length exposed to position it exactly at the same depth it was when you reinstall it. Weld up and machine your old pin to size. Press back in with a big hammer and loctite to the EXACT same depth. Protect the pins end from swelling damage. Before installation, fabricate a slug to go in the 7/16" hole and plug the end of the pivot pin with a 1/2" bolt and loctitie. This must be done to put pressure on your PTO lever detent ball spring. Drive the pin in too far and the PTO lever will push/pull hard, so use Mr. Slidehammer to pull back out one or two licks. Is this easy ?? Nope. But if you don't want to split a tractor, it can be done.
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That is thinking outside the box right there! Good alternative to splitting!
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www.awtractor.com
A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287
KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY
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PaulB
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Posted: 30 Oct 2023 at 9:40am |
jaybmiller wrote:
yeesh,and here I was thinking a bunch of washers as 'shims' might take up the 'lefty-righty' slop.
The docs way is better, but I'd be back in the field before I read the whole proceedure
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On my D15II I just drilled into the pin enough to tap a 1/4X20 TPI hole and used machine washers to remove the slop and a larger heavy fender washer on the outside to hold everything in place, cured the issue. Been that way for more than 20 years now
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HudCo
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Posted: 30 Oct 2023 at 11:40am |
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i have welded ( biult up) quite a few and shaped them back with a grinder and file and added a grease fittings bushings and machine washers what ever it takes . i fill tha same as dr. on sloppy peddales ,seats and levers
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Ted J
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Posted: 31 Oct 2023 at 12:20pm |
Allis dave wrote:
RWTool on here was rebuilding WD45 pedals. He might we able to do a D17 for you if you're unable. |
That's Rltool.......Ray Walker
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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