D17 foot clutch side to side play
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=197945
Printed Date: 25 Sep 2024 at 5:32am
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Topic: D17 foot clutch side to side play
Posted By: twinson
Subject: D17 foot clutch side to side play
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 5:21pm
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Is there a good fix for a D17 that has a foot clutch pedal that has excessive left to right play? |
Replies:
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 5:28pm
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I drilled mine out and put a bushing in it. Solved the problem. Series 1 ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 5:43pm
| Series 4 has a brass bushing. Replace it and it will improve things. |
Posted By: twinson
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 5:51pm
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What about Series I, II or III? |
Posted By: twinson
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 5:52pm
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What is the correct ID of the bushing? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 5:55pm
| Part number from AGCO 70235082 takes two bushings. Prior to chassis s/n 24001 there were no bushings. One would have to drill out the clutch pedal to accept bushings. |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 6:36pm
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If your clutch pedal doesn't have any bushings, your pin is prolly worn as well. However the pin can only be replaced when splittin gthe tractor in front of transmission. ------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 7:28pm
| If you are capable with the right tooling, you can remove the old pedal shaft without a split, but it takes some patience. Many times, new bushings correct the problem enough to just call it good enough, especially if you install a grease zerk to keep future wear at bay. Remove the left platform to get room to work. Get the clutch pedal off and wire the clutch rod up and out of the way. Center punch the shaft dead center and start drilling holes. A drill with a "level bubble" works best for up/down positioning and you can visualize left/right. Start with probably an 1/8" hole and get in about an inch. Work yourself up to I think a 7/16" hole and continue drilling deep until you break thru on the inside. You'll hit the detent spring for the PTO lever, which is in a 3/8" pocket hole. If you are centered and straight, you'll hit the end of the spring and continue in compressing it a little so it can be retrieved with a magnet. After the spring, use the magnet to remove the detent ball and any shavings from drilling. Pretty sure the 7/16" hole you made will then accept a 1/2" NC thread tap. Grease the tap and make some 1/2" NC threads and then connect a big slide hammer to remove the pivot pin. Be sure to measure the pivot pin length exposed to position it exactly at the same depth it was when you reinstall it. Weld up and machine your old pin to size. Press back in with a big hammer and loctite to the EXACT same depth. Protect the pins end from swelling damage. Before installation, fabricate a slug to go in the 7/16" hole and plug the end of the pivot pin with a 1/2" bolt and loctitie. This must be done to put pressure on your PTO lever detent ball spring. Drive the pin in too far and the PTO lever will push/pull hard, so use Mr. Slidehammer to pull back out one or two licks. Is this easy ?? Nope. But if you don't want to split a tractor, it can be done. |
Posted By: captaindana
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 6:02am
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Holy Moley Doc you are incredible as usual! ------------- Blue Skies and Tail Winds Dana |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 6:24am
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yeesh,and here I was thinking a bunch of washers as 'shims' might take up the 'lefty-righty' slop. The docs way is better, but I'd be back in the field before I read the whole proceedure ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 7:44am
| Remembering how A-C did those two bushings, there was a gap in the middle, which hardly ever wore on the shaft. I think I stuck 3 bushings in one tractor years ago and trimmed off the excess bushing sticking out. A grease zerk really helps make thinks last, but engineers were all about minimal daily upkeep. |
Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 12:33pm
| I did like Dr Allis suggested on my D 15 . Three bushings and cut off the excess . Worked for me . Good luck ! |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 1:21pm
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I made a mistake, I drilled out the pedal on my WD and installed a bushing. On my D17, I replaced the bushings. I realized it when I went to feed today and looked at both tractors. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 1:26pm
| I've run into some pretty nasty D-17 clutch pedals that drag against the platform. I'm kinda anal about seat suspensions and clutch/brake pedal conditions. |
Posted By: Ryan Renko
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 7:04pm
| When I replaced the brass bushings in my Series IV clutch pedal I drilled and tapped threads and put in a grease zerk. I thought it wouldn't hurt. Ryan |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2023 at 7:59am
| RWTool on here was rebuilding WD45 pedals. He might we able to do a D17 for you if you're unable. |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2023 at 8:23am
That is thinking outside the box right there! Good alternative to splitting! ------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
DrAllis wrote:Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2023 at 9:40am
On my D15II I just drilled into the pin enough to tap a 1/4X20 TPI hole and used machine washers to remove the slop and a larger heavy fender washer on the outside to hold everything in place, cured the issue. Been that way for more than 20 years now ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2023 at 11:40am
| i have welded ( biult up) quite a few and shaped them back with a grinder and file and added a grease fittings bushings and machine washers what ever it takes . i fill tha same as dr. on sloppy peddales ,seats and levers |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2023 at 12:20pm
------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |