Finding TDC D17 Series 1 gas?

Is TDC always when the distributor rotor button is pointing at #1 spark plug wire?  AND, do I rotate the engine one full turn, until the rotor points at #4 plug wire to get it on the #4 compression stroke, or is it more complicated than this?

As usual, I messed something up.  After adjusting the valves (while hot) to 0.013", #2 and #3 cylinders are not firing at all.  I checked this by removing the spark plug wires one at a time, it runs much rougher when #1 and #4 wires are removed, but no change when either #2 and #3 are removed.

This engine was rebuilt about 100 hours ago, and it is having power problems after it gets hot, so I thought a quick check of the valve lash would be a good thing to rule out.  I followed the instructions in the I&T book where you adjust in and out on #1, and one each of #2 and #3, and then rotate the engine until #4 is on compression and adjust those two, and the alternate ones on #2 and #3.

So, me being me, I must have messed something up and I now have a new opportunity to find the problem.  

This has the Petronix electronic ignition, and nearly new plug wires from Steve @ B&B.  I tried swapping the #2 and #3 plugs out with two used ones that were in my parts bin, with no success.  I doubt that is the problem.

Stopping today to get new plugs, but I am am thinking I messed something up when adjusting the valves.  Some were just slightly tight, maybe .008 - .011 instead of the recommended settings.

Anyway, now it is worse than before, 

        running on two, instead of four.

Thanks, 

- Roscoe

 

Power problems when warm could be a few things:

~Spark plugs not gapped right . Do not use Champion plugs. They don't work well in an AC 226 engine

~an obstruction of fuel

~coil getting weak

~poor condenser

 

Does it have good power when you first start it and loses power after it warms up?