eric's 1955 wd45

so here's what i came up with..i drilled out the piece of the old pin that was in that hole, then took a piece of key stock tapped it into the hole, then i had to cut it and file it to length and proper width to fit the slot in the housing. tapped it into place, and now that shaft will not spin anymore. so, i'd say success! 

Just to let you know that your not talking to yourself alone. I just don't have the answers and figure someone a lot smarter will soon chime in.
   Keep up the good work!
    David from jax

so, i got just about everything on the pto and hydraulics put back together. unfortunately the seal in the pto housing leaks, so i have to get a new one..lesson learned, plan on putting a new one before reinstall..but other than that, i think i'm gonna be back in biz. i'll get a lesson on bleeding the lines and adjusting the lift controls, but i'm just pretty pleased that i could get it all back together. thanks for everyone's help and advice. what do you guys think of the IH white on the clutch cover and lines?? interested to see if people think i'm out of line changing up the orange. my plan is to accent most of the covers and trim stuff in this white. curious to see what you guys think, good, bad, indifferent, all comments welcome.  

Edited by grateful1micelf - 02 Nov 2015 at 1:53pm

ac45dave wrote: need to turn hand clutch cover 180.there's a spring that goes from the hole on the ear to the sensing lever.

I KNEW IT!! lol. thanks dave. i thought i might have put that cover on wrong, i couldn't remember what the heck that hole was for. i must be missing that spring because there was no spring in that hole when i started. none of the traction boost stuff was connected when i got this tractor either, except for the hydraulic line from the gauge to the pump, so i'll have to do some figuring and testing to make sure i get all that working again.


Edited by grateful1micelf - 03 Nov 2015 at 6:36am

First some notes- The pump is a piston pump... the main shaft has lobes, which act on followers, and the followers push on the pistons. There's an unloading mechanism in there when pressure gets too high.

Transmission in neutral, engine running, clutch out, implement lever down, stand on the arms and force them down. If they won't go down, then the hold valve is either stuck, blocked, or otherwise not right. IF it happens to be full of air, when you stand on the arms, they'll 'bounce'. If so, back off one of the cylinder lines, stand on the arms, let the air out. Leave it loose for now...

When the pump operates, you will 'hear' it talk. With the implement lever down, it probably won't make any obvious noise. Once you flip the lever up, you'll hear it start to work. If it has air in it, it may sound a little ugly, but eventually will draw fluid and start trying to lift the arms.

If you've left the cylinder hose on one side loose, you may hear air hiss out, may even have oil leak out. Let a little leak, then half-snug the line. The arms SHOULD come up.

Once up, the pump will load up, and then you'll hear the unloader mechanism shut the pump off.

Stand on the arms again... are they bouncy? Lower the lever, arms SHOULD go down, and in doing so, a fair amount of air in the cylinders SHOULD get forced back to the reservoir. Your reservoir level will drop, so be prepared to add more oil. Cycle it a few times that way, and check level again.

My experience has been that on a freshly assembled system, I've had to bleed them a little to get the pump to draw, but once the pump is moving enough fluid for the cylinders to raise and lower, these things seem to bleed themselves really well.

Oh, and also note, there are different ways that the lift system can be set up, and the valve has several adjustment points that need to be set in order for the lift to do what you THINK you want it to do. My experience has been that no matter HOW I set mine, it NEVER does exactly what I want it to... it either wants to be full up, or when I run it full down, it will eventually raise it back up again... and if I try to set it partway down, it raises up again anyway...

The complicating factor is also a linkage that's connected to the implement coupler... it's the draft-control sensing linkage. I haven't had mine apart, but I imagine that if this linkage is worn or wonky, that pump will do some funky and annoying stuff. My suspicion is that mine is wonky, funky, and annoying predominantly for that reason...

Edited by DaveKamp - 29 Nov 2015 at 10:14am

I am late to chime in here, but a couple of thoughts.

The oil you put in the transmission and differential migrates back and forth between it and the PTO/hand clutch compartment. Those oils will get mixed as you run the tractor. The hydraulic compartment is by itself.

so no, i may have made a mistake. i was thinking the chamber in front of the hand clutch/pto was interconnected to the chamber w/the hand clutch and that everything after that was connected. so, yes, i put light fluid in the hand clutch chamber and filled the bayonet plug hole w/same light fluid. so i guess now, i have to drain the pto again and put the heavy fluid in there?? if so, do i also need to drain the tranny and rear end? i haven't moved the tractor since i put the new fluid in, so i kinda figure the lighter stuff hasn't migrated to the back end. or will it even matter that the lighter stuff is in the hand clutch chamber? if it mixes w/the heavy fluid it should be ok, or no? but, i for sure have light fluid in the hydraulic chamber that the pump mounts on the side of.
also, i just came back in from the shop. the lift seems to want to "spring" slowly back up when the lever is all the way down. i can push the arms downs by hand, but then they go back up on their own. but if i attach my plow, the lift will not lift it. and i haven't heard the pump "talk" to me or make any sounds like it's actually doing any operation.
thank you guys for your patience and help, it's much appreciated.
-eric

shifter boot is in very good shape. i've only had tractor for a couple of months, so i really have no idea what work has been done to it before, but it has not been split since it was all working. i'm pretty sure the foot clutch is all the way back, but i will double check. for now it's inside so i don't have many weather issues to worry about. i already spent time fixing cousin's wd45 after he left the top of the shifter completely off for like 3 years! so i know all about keeping water out of there thanks for the help stu(and dave and dr allis)
-eric


Edited by grateful1micelf - 29 Nov 2015 at 9:00pm

That nail trick is also described in the service manual.

stu(ON) wrote: Eric, there is one more question before you start to read all about the hydraulic system and its controls.  I don't remember many details about the Hold Position Valve, as I never touch mine. However, look at the picture in your post of 2015-20-17 and the position of the lever screw and cam shaft. Then look at the picture in your post of 2105-11-02.  I can't even see the screw.  Is it assembled incorrectly after the clean up and paint job?   You say it worked before, so I assume you want it reassembled the same way.

stu-
the hold position valve screw is now painted black, that be why you cant see it. it is run all the way out to the stop though. BUT, you do have me lookin at my old pics. i have more pictures and i may look back through those and compare to how it's set up now. i just assumed i had it all hooked back up right, so i didn't even compare it to the "before" pics. good call bud. i do know that i'm missing the spring from the wet clutch cover to the control lever, as someone pointed out to me. but it wasn't ever there before when the system was working. thanks again
-eric

grateful1micelf wrote:

stu(ON) wrote: That's a different screw.  Look at the parts explosion in the back of the Operators manual.

i think i see what you're talking about. i had to move the pics closer so i could compare easier.

stu(ON) wrote: Eric, I will take one more potshot at you.  Your Hold Position Valve does not seem to be set up like mine, which is in Hold mode for brush hogging.  I believe that you made mention of a plow.  You seem to have snap coupler.  If you have a mounted SC plow, your HPV was likely set up for traction control or booster.  When you removed the hydraulic pump and controls, you disconnected the link arm between the SC Bell and pump controls.   Are you sure that you reattached it properly and have the HPV adjusted accordingly?  I will not rob you of the enjoyment of reading all about this in the Operators and Service Manuals.  I cannot answer my own question.

yes stu, i believe you are correct. i noticed that i have a few places where i need to do some adjusting. one is where you're talking about, and i also think my linkage rods need adjusting, and i also left out the shims (washers) on the spring down on the draw bar, which i guess is part of the draft control. i'll make those adjustments and see if they help and i'll let ya know how it goes. thanks again for your help. this hydraulic system is one sensitive sucker lol..good times!