eric's 1955 wd45
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Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=112844
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Topic: eric's 1955 wd45
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Subject: eric's 1955 wd45
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2015 at 12:36pm
------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Replies:
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2015 at 1:04pm
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i recently acquired this 1955 wd45. not to restoration mode yet, but hope to get there in the future. for now, i just want to get it good running/usable condition. it's a learn as i go thing since this is the first tractor i've ever really turned a wrench on. so far i have drained and replaced all the fluids (clutch/hydraulic is draining now, pto has an issue) been through the fuel system and removed quite a bit of rust from gas tank (this is gas, not diesel) removed carb and cleaned, but probably will put a rebuild kit to it soon, removed air breather and cleaned and put new oil in bath bowl, added seafoam to fuel, stp treatment to engine oil, and cleaned alot of the grease and grime off. got new tube for front tire, and (2) new tires and tubes for rear. also got a new starter rod, lever, and button. it came with 12v system and electronic ignition already installed. needs.. most of the gauges, left side brake linkage rod, lever and chain for quick hitch latch release, and whatever i find it needs to get the pto working properly...for now this will probably be an ongoing post as i delve more and more into this thing. i'm open to any advice, comments, questions? MY biggest questions for now are how to fix the pto and the engine seems to be losing oil (looks like from valve cover and front seal areas) and it smokes some and has a tendency to back fire/pop from time to time and acts like its sending quite a bit of oil out the top of the exhaust pipe. my plan is to get a full engine gasket set and hopefully fix those issues. if anyone thinks i have a bigger problem please feel free to let me know. as far as pto, it engages by itself every once in a while. also has a bad grinding sound that comes and goes on its own, like a gear is slipping or loose. i haven't used the pto w/any implements, it just concerns me that it's going to tear up something else. the tractor doesn't seem to have any issues when the grinding occurs so i'm hoping it's just a minor issue in the pto housing, which i'll be removing later today to see if a bunch of damn pieces fall out lol. i have used it to plow a big garden we have and it seemed to do great! (aside from i could use some wheel weights) but she dug pretty good. sorry this post is so long, but i wanted to put as much info as i could for anyone that might help me out or for others that have similar questions. i have lots of pics and will have many more as i go, so if you need to see anything in particular, just ask. thanks in advance. lovin' this site and working on this old tractor!! -eric ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2015 at 2:41pm
| looks like you will take good care of your new tractor! have fun with it! |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2015 at 2:58pm
   
------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2015 at 3:07pm
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so i found my issue, and the part where i said i was gonna see if any pieces fall out was not so funny. intermediate gear is almost round and all the teeth are on the floor or in the pto housing now. looks like i'll get a lesson on how to replace one. from what i'm reading, i have to remove the entire torque tube assembly and clutch?? little more work than i was hoping to do. guess i'll know more about my tractor after i'm done though. if anyone thinks i can replace that gear w/o taking the clutch out and torque tube apart, by all means, say so. otherwise, that's what i'll do. for the time being, i think i'm going to pull the gear from the top of the pto housing and put the housing back on w/no pto drive just so i can put fluid back in and still use the tractor. is this a bad idea? it doesn't appear to me that it will hurt anything but i'd rather hear from someone that knows. thanks gang -eric ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2015 at 3:14pm
 the pto gear, bearings and shaft look ok to me, so my plan is to put them back in w/o the gear in the top of the housing so it doesn't grind anymore, until i can get the parts and replace everything ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2015 at 7:01pm
| Intermediate gears can be changed by removing the hydraulic pump and sliding the shaft out of the way. No need to remove the torque tube. |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2015 at 8:23pm
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that's good news drallis because i really didn't want to have to pull all that apart. thank you sir
------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: Jim Hancock
Date Posted: 05 Oct 2015 at 5:14pm
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Where do you live in Oklahoma? I'm halfway between Mustang and Union City. ------------- How blessed we are by HIS GRACE! |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 05 Oct 2015 at 6:45pm
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I'm in Catoosa, just east of tulsa ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 05 Oct 2015 at 8:50pm
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I had that exact same situation, and the reason was that a pin from the hand clutch got spit out, and found it's way down through the gears. Look about halfway down this thread for photos and explanation: http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=104986&title=mixmatch-50-wd-handclutch-and-driveline ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2015 at 6:30am
| Your problem with the intermediate gear is not uncommon, another cause is from the pto not being fully engauged. Also bush hogging is hard on these gears. Dr Allis is right as usual on the replacement of it. Job is easier if you have a helper to hold the spacer washers and to help line up the shaft as you slide it in but job can be done by one person. Keep us posted on your progress !! |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2015 at 6:33am
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thanks guys. i will. do you guys think if i remove the idler gear from the top of the housing, that it would be ok to replace the stub shaft and remount the housing with pto disabled. i don't really need it right now and it may take me a bit to gather funds for new gears. i don't really NEED to use tractor, but it would be nice if i could. i'm thinking a full engine gasket kit may preceed a pto gear. so... but thanks again for the advice. ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 08 Oct 2015 at 5:54pm
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A replacement gear (good used) shouldn't set you back that much... the toughest part for mine, was the PITA of lying under the tractor and fussing the pieces in place, probably took me an hour of messing around 'till I had it right, and then I think I called my son out to provide a second set of hands and eyes. IIRC I think I used a little dab of grease to hold the spacer in place. Just fix it and be done!  ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 08 Oct 2015 at 9:32pm
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I got the idler gear out and it looks to me like it should have had a key which it did not. I'm w/you though Dave, I'd really rather just fix it while it's apart. I'd love to find good used gears, but not sure there are many around here. For no more than I need to use the tractor right now, I'll think I'll just save up and get new gears. Motor leaks oil all over, so I really to get all those fixed before I run in to some real problems. ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2015 at 9:49am
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Check with ANY of the guys that have parts machines here- I got mine from Bill Deppe... and the way those gears are, they're either good, or bad... usually they're good unless something falls down into 'em. ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2015 at 10:27pm
update on tractor is i found some used gears from a guy on here. also pulled the hydraulic pump. that there job is not easy  but, assuming i can get it all back together, that part of it is done. anyway, hope everyone is having fun playing with their tractors! take care gang
------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2015 at 8:36am
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Someone recently posted pic of the "nail trick" when installing hyd pump.Flatten end of 4 nails,press roller lever against body and wedge nail between body and lever.This will keep all levers collapsed out of way when reinstalling pump.Once you get it fed in past frame rail with draw pipe inside housing,pull nails out and bolt up.You can have a gasket glued to hsg and never disturb it doing this way. The shaft uses that set bolt to lock in place.No key needed. |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2015 at 7:45am
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hmm..that sounds interesting. i'd like to see the pics of that. anyone remember the name of that post or posted it?
------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: ac45dave
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2015 at 8:29am
i believe this is the pic your talking about.  i would put the gasket on the tractor instead of the pump------------- 54 wd-45gas ; 56 wd-45d N/F w/fact p/s ; 63 d-17 sIII N/F gas ; 60 D14 N/F ; 67 d-17 sIV N/F gas ; 63D15 sII W/F; 39rc#667 ; 2021 massey 4710 fwa ; gravely 2 wheel tractors |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2015 at 9:24am
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pretty slick trick! that pump is WAY cleaner than mine. mine will be clean and freshly painted when it goes back in though. the gasket was in bad shape and fluid had leaked all around it, making a huge mess of that entire area. hopefully i'll get that all fixed up and be leak free thanks for the tips guys. sent out the $ for my pto gears and some other parts i needed today, so i gotta get busy cleaning up all the parts to put it back together. went ahead and cleaned, sanded and painted the parts i pulled off in the process of fixing the pto. gonna look a lil funny since i haven't painted the torque tube or transmission or anything yet, but the fresh AC orange looks awesome and i just couldn't help micelf. i'm prolly gonna make some enemies here because i decided to tweak the original paint scheme a lil. not a huge fan of the ALL orange, so i got some IH white (which is like a cream color) that i'm putting on as like a trim color just to break up the orange a lil. also painting all the nuts and bolts i pull black. so, i'll post pics as i go and see what you guys think. hope everyone is having a good week....more to come
------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2015 at 2:22pm
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been in shop playin' w/45..think i went from having the tractor bug straight to a full on flu! enjoy tinkering w/this thing so much. got a bunch of parts all cleaned up and first coats of paint on. can't wait to see 'em back on tractor. also, route 66 flywheelers gas engine and tractor show is this weekend in my lil' town of catoosa, usa..prolly alot of deere's there, but should also be some AC's and i think this year, it's supposed to feature olivers, which i think just look cool. i'll try and get some pics and post on sunday or monday.
------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2015 at 7:59am
 for those of you that are like me and have never taken one of these off, here's what a hydraulic pump looks like. that lil' guy is heavy and hard to get out! i've cleaned it up quite a bit and will sand and paint this week (i hope) then wait for my gears to come in and put it all back together hopefully next week ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2015 at 8:10am
 this looks to me like something was sheared off, but that hole doesn't go all the way through so i'm kinda confused what goes there. this is the shaft for the idler gear in the pto housing..any clues??? also, w/the hydro pump removed, i'm still not really seeing how to get the intermediate gear out? i can see the end of the shaft through the hole in the side of the torque tube, but i guess i was expecting to see a set screw or key that i could remove to drop that gear. i'm sure i'll figure it out, but some knowledgeable advice would be well received. thanks gang. ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2015 at 9:10am
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still looking to see if i could get some feedback. parts are on
the way and i still haven't figured out if that idler shaft needs
attention and some sort of key, screw, or pin. also, have managed to get
intermediate gear out yet. do i release something from underneath and
slide shaft into the hydraulic chamber where the pump was mounted?
------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2015 at 6:45am
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so i feel pretty dumb that the set screw was starin' me in the face the entire time! but, there she is. the intermediate gear is out and new gear should be here today or tomorrow. got most all the stuff i pulled off painted and ready to go back on. i'll post more pics when reassembled. ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2015 at 6:40am
------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: ac45dave
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2015 at 3:28pm
------------- 54 wd-45gas ; 56 wd-45d N/F w/fact p/s ; 63 d-17 sIII N/F gas ; 60 D14 N/F ; 67 d-17 sIV N/F gas ; 63D15 sII W/F; 39rc#667 ; 2021 massey 4710 fwa ; gravely 2 wheel tractors |
grateful1micelf wrote:Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2015 at 4:13pm
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ok, i have a silly question,what keeps the trans oil and hydraulic oil
form mixing?i've looked at parts and service manuals and don't see any
"o" ring or anything to seal around the intermediate shaft to keep fluid
from migrating from one compartment to the other. not sure how silly that is? i kinda wonder the same thing. the fluid from the hydraulic chamber to the hand clutch chamber where all the pto gears are, is all the same fluid that is filled in 2 different areas. i haven't seen down into the tranny below the gears to see how the hydraulic fluid stays out of the tranny fluid. i assume there's a seal like on the motor or like the seal on the pto housing, and it keeps the fluids from mixing. i can't see it, but i think the intermediate gear rides in like a cup on the back end then the front rides in a hole that links the hand clutch area to the hydraulic pump area. all guesses lol ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2015 at 10:51am
i've got all of this figured out and back together except for this pin. i gather that there used to be some sore of square cap screw that went in this shaft that slides into a key type slot in the pto housing to keep this shaft from spinning??? all the parts book shows is "pin" but the picture of it doesn't really show how it goes in. am i gonna have to try to remove that piece in the shaft and put a new pin in? does it even really need it? only other thing i can think of is to drill and bottom tap a new hole and put a new square cap screw in?? any thoughts? thanks ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2015 at 10:09am
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so here's what i came up with..i drilled out the piece of the old pin that was in that hole, then took a piece of key stock tapped it into the hole, then i had to cut it and file it to length and proper width to fit the slot in the housing. tapped it into place, and now that shaft will not spin anymore. so, i'd say success!
------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2015 at 10:10am
------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: sandman2234
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2015 at 10:25am
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Just to let you know that your not talking to yourself alone. I just don't have the answers and figure someone a lot smarter will soon chime in. Keep up the good work! David from jax ------------- A proud member of the Allis Express movement! Northeast Florida |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2015 at 12:45pm
it's all good bud. thanks. sometimes i just need to get on here and ask, then when i get no answers, i just go figure it out. pto housing is back on tractor, hydraulic pump is remounted. i just need to reconnect all the lines and hoses. i got new hoses for the lift since the old ones were pretty ugly. everything i removed got cleaned, sanded and fresh paint. i'll post some pics after i get it all back together. also bought me a cheap engine stand. ordering a full engine gasket set is next on my list. ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2015 at 1:42pm
------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2015 at 1:43pm
------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2015 at 1:52pm
so, i got just about everything on the pto and hydraulics put back together. unfortunately the seal in the pto housing leaks, so i have to get a new one..lesson learned, plan on putting a new one before reinstall..but other than that, i think i'm gonna be back in biz. i'll get a lesson on bleeding the lines and adjusting the lift controls, but i'm just pretty pleased that i could get it all back together. thanks for everyone's help and advice. what do you guys think of the IH white on the clutch cover and lines?? interested to see if people think i'm out of line changing up the orange. my plan is to accent most of the covers and trim stuff in this white. curious to see what you guys think, good, bad, indifferent, all comments welcome.  
------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: ac45dave
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2015 at 10:21pm
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need to turn hand clutch cover 180.there's a spring that goes from the hole on the ear to the sensing lever. ------------- 54 wd-45gas ; 56 wd-45d N/F w/fact p/s ; 63 d-17 sIII N/F gas ; 60 D14 N/F ; 67 d-17 sIV N/F gas ; 63D15 sII W/F; 39rc#667 ; 2021 massey 4710 fwa ; gravely 2 wheel tractors |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2015 at 6:32am
I KNEW IT!! lol. thanks dave. i thought i might have put that cover on wrong, i couldn't remember what the heck that hole was for. i must be missing that spring because there was no spring in that hole when i started. none of the traction boost stuff was connected when i got this tractor either, except for the hydraulic line from the gauge to the pump, so i'll have to do some figuring and testing to make sure i get all that working again. ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 9:54am
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so i got my new pto seal and put all that all back together. pto is functioning properly now! in testing the hydraulic lift, i found that it won't raise and lower now. i've seen posts that talk about bleeding the system and different things, but can't seem to find where i read that stuff. anyone have any advice on what might cause the lift to not operate? it doesn't seem to want to do anything at all?!? thanks for any help -eric ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 10:10am
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First some notes- The pump is a piston pump... the main shaft has lobes, which act on followers, and the followers push on the pistons. There's an unloading mechanism in there when pressure gets too high. Transmission in neutral, engine running, clutch out, implement lever down, stand on the arms and force them down. If they won't go down, then the hold valve is either stuck, blocked, or otherwise not right. IF it happens to be full of air, when you stand on the arms, they'll 'bounce'. If so, back off one of the cylinder lines, stand on the arms, let the air out. Leave it loose for now... When the pump operates, you will 'hear' it talk. With the implement lever down, it probably won't make any obvious noise. Once you flip the lever up, you'll hear it start to work. If it has air in it, it may sound a little ugly, but eventually will draw fluid and start trying to lift the arms. If you've left the cylinder hose on one side loose, you may hear air hiss out, may even have oil leak out. Let a little leak, then half-snug the line. The arms SHOULD come up. Once up, the pump will load up, and then you'll hear the unloader mechanism shut the pump off. Stand on the arms again... are they bouncy? Lower the lever, arms SHOULD go down, and in doing so, a fair amount of air in the cylinders SHOULD get forced back to the reservoir. Your reservoir level will drop, so be prepared to add more oil. Cycle it a few times that way, and check level again. My experience has been that on a freshly assembled system, I've had to bleed them a little to get the pump to draw, but once the pump is moving enough fluid for the cylinders to raise and lower, these things seem to bleed themselves really well. Oh, and also note, there are different ways that the lift system can be set up, and the valve has several adjustment points that need to be set in order for the lift to do what you THINK you want it to do. My experience has been that no matter HOW I set mine, it NEVER does exactly what I want it to... it either wants to be full up, or when I run it full down, it will eventually raise it back up again... and if I try to set it partway down, it raises up again anyway...  The complicating factor is also a linkage that's connected to the implement coupler... it's the draft-control sensing linkage. I haven't had mine apart, but I imagine that if this linkage is worn or wonky, that pump will do some funky and annoying stuff. My suspicion is that mine is wonky, funky, and annoying predominantly for that reason... ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 5:23pm
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thanks dave! that is all very helpful info. my biggest problem, it seems so far, is that the arms don't lift at all. i thought they were stuck in the up position and wouldn't go down. upon further investigation, they simply won't raise. do you think it could be that i don't have enough fluid? i pretty much knew i was gonna run into these issues when i removed the pump to get to the pto gears, but really had no choice. it's all a learning process for me though and i have learned and still learning quite a bit. thanks again sir, for the good info.-eric ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: stu(ON)
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 5:47pm
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I am late to chime in here, but a couple of thoughts. You should be able to lift the arms from low to high with your arm strength. If not, what is binding? Packing glands too tight? You questioned on page one about the separation of heavy from light oil. You check the hydraulic oil at the bayonet stab inside the left frame rail ahead of the two pipe plugs for the heavy oil. You can tell on the bayonet stab if you have enough oil. Have you figured out how the chambers are separated? Do you have the operators and service manuals for your tractor?
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Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 7:03pm
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"I am late to chime in here, but a couple of thoughts. You should be able to lift the arms from low to high with your arm strength. If not, what is binding? Packing glands too tight? You questioned on page one about the separation of heavy from light oil. You check the hydraulic oil at the bayonet stab inside the left frame rail ahead of the two pipe plugs for the heavy oil. You can tell on the bayonet stab if you have enough oil. Have you figured out how the chambers are separated? Do you have the operators and service manuals for your tractor?"
i do have the manuals, i may not have when i originally posted this thread. i'm pretty sure i have the proper fluids in the proper places. i put 80-90 in the tranny and differential, and i used a light hydraulic fluid in the pto/hand clutch/hydralic (torque tube) area. what i did was pulled the hydraulic pump to access the shaft for the intermediate pto gear. the lift was working before, but when i pulled it, i had it in a few pieces and cleaned and painted it. i think i got everything back together properly. i'm hoping that i just don't have enough fluid in it yet and if i add more it start to work again. i don't have a full understanding of all the adjustments for the lift (delay/hold) but with the way i have it set up currently, i think it should at least go up and down like it's supposed to. i'll check the fluid again and add if needed, then bleed air if needed. i just wanted a lil' more input on the hydraulics before i tore something up. i'm sure my issue is something simple that some of you guys could figure out real easy. i just have to figure out and learn as i go. thanks again guys ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 7:25pm
| The oil you put in the transmission and differential migrates back and forth between it and the PTO/hand clutch compartment. Those oils will get mixed as you run the tractor. The hydraulic compartment is by itself. |
Posted By: stu(ON)
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 7:31pm
| Eric, let's just make sure that you have this straight. The differential, transmission, wet clutch and PTO are all one big interconnected chamber. The hydraulic chamber is separate. There are two pipe plugs accessing the big chamber for heavy oil. The bayonet stab is the access for the hydraulic chamber that takes the lighter oil. Just wanted to make sure that you actually filled the chamber through this front port. |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 8:14pm
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so no, i may have made a mistake. i was thinking the chamber in front of the hand clutch/pto was interconnected to the chamber w/the hand clutch and that everything after that was connected. so, yes, i put light fluid in the hand clutch chamber and filled the bayonet plug hole w/same light fluid. so i guess now, i have to drain the pto again and put the heavy fluid in there?? if so, do i also need to drain the tranny and rear end? i haven't moved the tractor since i put the new fluid in, so i kinda figure the lighter stuff hasn't migrated to the back end. or will it even matter that the lighter stuff is in the hand clutch chamber? if it mixes w/the heavy fluid it should be ok, or no? but, i for sure have light fluid in the hydraulic chamber that the pump mounts on the side of. also, i just came back in from the shop. the lift seems to want to "spring" slowly back up when the lever is all the way down. i can push the arms downs by hand, but then they go back up on their own. but if i attach my plow, the lift will not lift it. and i haven't heard the pump "talk" to me or make any sounds like it's actually doing any operation. thank you guys for your patience and help, it's much appreciated. -eric ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: stu(ON)
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 8:38pm
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I would not worry about the mxing of the two oils. Some fellows run hytran oil in all the chambers anyway. Unless someone has split the tractor in the past to replace the seal between the hydraulic chamber and the wet clutch, you will get some leakage & mixing anyhow. Just keep an eye out for any leakage from any external seals and top up with the appropriate fluid. Make sure that the rubber dust cover around the gear shift lever is in decent shape, or you get water & dirt leaking down into that tranny chamber & beyond, which is not good, especially in freezing weather. |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 8:55pm
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shifter boot is in very good shape. i've only had tractor for a couple of months, so i really have no idea what work has been done to it before, but it has not been split since it was all working. i'm pretty sure the foot clutch is all the way back, but i will double check. for now it's inside so i don't have many weather issues to worry about. i already spent time fixing cousin's wd45 after he left the top of the shifter completely off for like 3 years! so i know all about keeping water out of there thanks for the help stu(and dave and dr allis) -eric ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2015 at 10:34pm
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Hmmm... kinda sounds like mebbie the hydraulic pump control settings are in between 'modes'. There's a spin-out knob, and a turning sector. The turning sector is the 'hold position' valve, and the rod must be adjusted properly, and the turning sector must be either engaged or disengaged according to the operating instructions for the operating mode you desire. The pump's check valve may be stuck open (passing fluid right back to tank), or the check valve adjusting screw may be set wrong. Check the hold position valve settings as noted in the operating manual... there's pictures posted in the other 'hydraulic lift problems' type threads. ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: Dave H
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2015 at 6:31am
| That nail trick is also described in the service manual. |
Posted By: stu(ON)
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2015 at 12:15pm
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Eric, there is one more question before you start to read all about the hydraulic system and its controls. I don't remember many details about the Hold Position Valve, as I never touch mine. However, look at the picture in your post of 2015-20-17 and the position of the lever screw and cam shaft. Then look at the picture in your post of 2105-11-02. I can't even see the screw. Is it assembled incorrectly after the clean up and paint job? You say it worked before, so I assume you want it reassembled the same way.
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Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2015 at 8:58pm
stu- the hold position valve screw is now painted black, that be why you cant see it. it is run all the way out to the stop though. BUT, you do have me lookin at my old pics. i have more pictures and i may look back through those and compare to how it's set up now. i just assumed i had it all hooked back up right, so i didn't even compare it to the "before" pics. good call bud. i do know that i'm missing the spring from the wet clutch cover to the control lever, as someone pointed out to me. but it wasn't ever there before when the system was working. thanks again -eric ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: stu(ON)
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2015 at 9:05pm
| That's a different screw. Look at the parts explosion in the back of the Operators manual. |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2015 at 6:29am
------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2015 at 6:30am
------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2015 at 6:37am
i think i see what you're talking about. i had to move the pics closer so i could compare easier. ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: stu(ON)
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2015 at 9:16am
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Eric, I will take one more potshot at you. Your Hold Position Valve does not seem to be set up like mine, which is in Hold mode for brush hogging. I believe that you made mention of a plow. You seem to have snap coupler. If you have a mounted SC plow, your HPV was likely set up for traction control or booster. When you removed the hydraulic pump and controls, you disconnected the link arm between the SC Bell and pump controls. Are you sure that you reattached it properly and have the HPV adjusted accordingly? I will not rob you of the enjoyment of reading all about this in the Operators and Service Manuals. I cannot answer my own question.
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Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2015 at 2:41pm
yes stu, i believe you are correct. i noticed that i have a few places where i need to do some adjusting. one is where you're talking about, and i also think my linkage rods need adjusting, and i also left out the shims (washers) on the spring down on the draw bar, which i guess is part of the draft control. i'll make those adjustments and see if they help and i'll let ya know how it goes. thanks again for your help. this hydraulic system is one sensitive sucker lol..good times!   ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: stu(ON)
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2015 at 6:23pm
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Isn't it funny how we are always left wondering what the leftover parts were for? You'll have the lift working better than ever by the time that you are through.
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Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2015 at 7:15pm
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Eric, Sorry I have not been following your thread close. I did a color change up on the wheels of the WD's I completed this year. I think if its clean fresh and functioning you can have a lot of fun and maybe do some work too. I would recommend that you look that pump over close. As mentioned the upper thumb screw seems to be missing in your painted pictures? Maybe I cant see it? but all those screws and knobs have a function and they all need to be there and able to function by hand. In hind site I would have recommended that you get a hyd. pump rebuild kit from one of the sponsors. I replaced gaskets on one of mine and have a leak at the front adjusting screw. On the other pump I went through the whole thing and replaced o-rings and gaskets. I felt it was worth the effort. Looks to me like you are highly capable of the project. There is nothing to magic about these and I know I had a couple questions during the rebuild and called Sandy Lake and their tech walked me through my issues. Couple shots might help??      Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2015 at 8:18pm
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Chris- yes, in hindsight, a rebuild kit would have been nice. i DID make new gaskets for it, but all the lil' "o"rings and ball bearings would have been a good thing to replace while i had it all apart. i should have just cleaned it all up as an entire unit, but the my mechanical inclination took over and i needed to open it all up lol. fortunately, if/when i get this all figured out, i should be a wd45 hydraulic guru! i just came in from the shop after making more adjustments and sill nothing. i have a feeling it will be coming back out, so it may get a rebuild kit after all. on another note, i see you hsave a jubilee and some cubs..my farm buddy cousin just acquired a jubilee and a cub from his grandpa. we have also been playing with those trying to get them cleaned up and running good again. love workin' on these old tractors, so it makes these issues a lil' more ok. thanks for your post and the pics bud -eric ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2015 at 8:41pm
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here's another pic. not sure why you can't see the thumb screw in that other pic. could it be that that cam is turned wrong?? when i rotate it all the way up, it barely clears that hole that it locks into on the opposite plate. in the old dirty pic, it looks like it goes much higher (more vertical) that what it does on the tractor now. that cam just looks wrong the more i look at i just can't put my finger on why. the thumb screw is for sure there though. if that cam isn't the issue, i must have done something wrong to the inside when i had it apart (which would suck lol) i'll keep situation posted ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2015 at 9:00pm
------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: stu(ON)
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2015 at 7:57am
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Eric, if your picture reflects the way that you have actually used the Hold Position Valve, you were not set up for draft control but rather for delayed lift or hold position. Here is a pic of mine that I snapped long ago of the HPV in hold position mode and you can see the position of the cam shaft and control lever. The plates are locked together. You could remove the connecting link to the drawbar spring and not know the difference. Sorry if this pic is oversize; tired of messing with it.  |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2015 at 7:32pm
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Eric, Just keep doing research and working on it. If I can tear one apart and put it back together you can too. I see the thumb screw plain in that picture. Must be hidden on the tractor. FYI I did not have that spring in place on mine from the cover down. Both my tractors needed quite a bit of attention on this pump and controls. They had been messed with a lot over the years and were just way out of whack. Your doing good. Hope the Ford and Cubs are coming along also. Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2015 at 8:56pm
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thanks stu..thanks chris
------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2015 at 11:17am
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well, i finally got a few days off so that i could spend some time in the shop. of course it took the christmas holidays to get the time i needed. hope everyone had a nice christmas w/their families... anyway, update on tractor is that i ended up pulling hydro pump back off the tractor, i went all through everything i had disassembled the first time i had it off. i found no obvious issues. i did have a better look at the parts breakdown pictures to make dang sure i got the valves back in the proper order. i put it all back together and on the tractor. filled 'er up w/fluid, started 'er up and work like a champ (for the most part). only thing i can think was wrong is that i bled the system wrong or didn't have enough fluid or something dumb like that. i think i still need to bleed the rams a lil more and i need to do some adjusting on the traction boost/drawbar. it's not raising it's self when it starts pulling too hard. once i get that worked out and some wheel weights, i think she'll pull a plow like crazy. next up is the engine gasket kit. i'll be delving into that pretty soon i hope, so i'll have all new sets of questions, i'm sure. i already think it's going to have at least a valve issue. i'm getting lots of blowby oil out the exhaust manifold. so there's the update. thanks again to those that helped me out so far and for any others that join in. eric ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2015 at 1:48pm
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For the traction booster to work well you need that spring connected to the hand clutch cover plate pulling on the lower lever.There is a lockout screw on lower lever which needs backed out to allow lever to move when drawbar linkage is pulling(drafting)on it and that linkage needs properly adjusted. The shaft in the intermediate PTO gear is held in place with the set screw which has a tapered nose to fit in the hole.The old one appeared to be sheared off in the shaft. Removing washers from BIG spring underneath makes it require MORE pull load before TB can operate.You have compressed spring making it harder to move.The spring to the cover plate and the drawbar linkage both hook over the same pin.When not using TB that lower thumb lock screw should be locked into dimple in hsg. |
Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2015 at 10:11pm
| the pin you are holdng,is what the pto gear slides on to engage the pto.this hole has a detent ball or slug,cant remember which.when you engage the pto,you can feel it go to engage and disengage.never saw one sheared such as that..... |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2015 at 10:06am
thanks for the bit of info steve. i knew the washers on the big spring +/- the tension, but wasn't exactly sure how. i think i have too many though. so, by what you said above, i need less washers correct? because i want the spring to relax and extend? if i add washers it compresses the spring and doesn't allow it to have as much flex/movement? that sound correct, or bass ackwards? anyway, thanks for the help. i'm sure i'll get it figured out if i have to pull it apart 1/2 dozen times. eric ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 8:50am
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update on 45 engine is that there's not much update. it's all apart and i've been cleaning on it, but still have much to do. after cleaning the head surfaces and looking a lil' closer at all my parts, i noticed that one of the pistons has rubbed the sleeve in the cylinder?!?! it appears that either something got in the cylinder or the piston has developed too much play at some point. the wear on the sleeve and piston is right on 2 spots on one side of the wrist pin, so the sleeve has 2 nice lil' racing stripes where that pin has rubbed. not really sure why it rubbed that way?? kinda thinking my missing governor weight might have something to do w/it, but i honestly don't know. anyway, think i've talked micelf into new rings and sleeves and probably bearings (full piston kit minus rods) and probably a valve kit. i really think i could reuse all my valve stuff, and just clean and relap 'em but i'd like to just replace 'em. on a side note, i haven't had much time on the 45 lately because i got a lil' farmall cub, 1948 model. been tinkering w/it gettin' the garden going. also became a chicken farmer this year so cousin and i had to build a hen house and coop. been busy, as i'm sure most of you on here have been this time of year. HAPPY EASTER everyone!! hope you all have blessed days. i'll post up some pics of my progress, soon. take care all eric ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 9:55am
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Sounds like the wrist pins are not set on the rods right, look at the manual again, it has a pic and INFO on how to set the pins on the rods as per the offset they are set for the number cylinder they go in.
------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 10:23am
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Eric, You have been busy! Thanks for the update on the 45! Don is the go to guy as you rebuild the Allis engine! How many chickens are you going to have? Happy Easter! Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 12:36pm
don, thanks sir. that's how the engine was when i got it. i just noticed it when i started to get things cleaned up. all the wrist pins look like they're assembled the same. i DID notice that it looks like they will slide out of the pistons a lil' bit on one side but not the other, so i see what you're saying about the direction in which they go. i'll be getting more info and researching before i actually put new parts together. thanks again don..your video, pics and advice are very helpful for what i'm doing. eric ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 12:40pm
we have 10 grown hens (mostly cinnamon queens, a rhode is. red, couple americana easter eggers) then we have 10 of the same variety of pullets that are just now about 6 weeks old and are getting acclimated w/the hens...they're a hoot! love watching them and they produce tons of eggs. Happy Easter to you too, Chris ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 1:08pm
 this is the cub i got. hadn't been started in about 12 years. got it from a friend who had it in a shed for all that time. put new plugs, wires, n dist. cap on it, and tried turnin' it over blasting carb cleaner and starting fluid through for about 30 minutes and she came right to life! pretty cool. she's plowed, cultivated, and hilled the garden already. love this lil' thing! eric ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 1:16pm
here's some garden and chicken coop pics  ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |
Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 1:25pm
| I've always been told that you want at least one bolt, screw, washer, or nut left over or you project will blow to pieces!. Leon R Cmo |
Posted By: grateful1micelf
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2016 at 1:27pm
and here are some of the pics of the 45 engine notice how the wrist pin is worn on either side.. also noticed a bunch of scratches on the head..assume that's from previous owners scraping gasket or something???   and here you can see 2 distinct marks where the wrist pin has rubbed the cylinder sleeve ------------- 1955 WD45 (1st and only tractor i've owned..for now) |