D10 hydraulic leak problems

I been wanting to get back to work on my D10 for a few months now. One of my biggest issues has been hydraulic leaks. The end caps on the control valve was rusted and pitted on the inside and it was impossible for the O-rings to seal in them. I finally found a machinist willing to make new ones and they look good and I think they will work. Now the problem is I can't find the seals. I've checked all or most of these tractor part websites (Steiners, Yesterdays Tractors, Shoups, etc.) and they all seem to have the same things, and very little hydraulic parts. The seals I need are called wiper seals. They are not simple O-rings. They are a band of rubber with a flange on them that fits in a groove. They go around the front of the spools right behind the levers. They're not leaking badly, but they do seep enough to drip making clean-up impossible. I called a local Agco dealer and was told the parts were discontinued. The guy actually told me "sorry, this is just a tractor that time has passed by." That was a big help, I suppose I should give up then. I don't know anyone who makes parts out of rubber, so I can't go that route again. The only thing I can think of is find another seal that's close and hope it works. Does anyone have any suggestions, or has solved this problem before?
The traction booster valve also leaks. Looking at the diagram of it there's not much in it. A washer, an O-ring, and a seal. The seal was available and hopefully the washer and O-ring won't be a problem. Although, there was a part I couldn't get, it's called a dust cover (I'd call it a boot). It's not critical, but I'd like to have it.
The other leak I'm pretty sure is around the PTO shaft. Hopefully it's just the outer seal (and I hope it's available). My I&T manual says you have to remove the PTO housing to change it. I've read some criticism about the I&T manual on this forum before and I have trouble understanding it myself. I feel this is mostly due to my inexperience as a mechanic. Is it necessary to remove the housing? And if the housing must come off, I'll need a gasket to replace it. Thanks for any help or advice, and sorry for writing such a lengthy message Ranse.

I'm pretty sure you can replace the PTO seal externally as I remember doing it on my D12

I used a spring out of a pen! Fit right in and works for several years now. Local machine shop had the balls. I got 10 for $1.

I found that if the spring was too stiff it made the lever hard to move.

Yeah Charlie, I hope I don't have that problem. The springs I got from Agco look to long to me (about an inch). I'm going to have to really compress them to get everything in there. The machinist used some type of putty and made a mold of my old caps and used that to get the measurements. Pretty ingenious to me, but I guess that's just an old machinist trick.

I figured you could make your own Tracy, you make difficult stuff everyday. I was actually planning to look you up if this guy had failed me. I still have your info you sent. But I don't care to tell you, he had 11 hours in the two at $35 an hour. He cut me a little slack and only charged me $325. Now I'm curious to know, could you have made them cheaper?