D10 hydraulic leak problems
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=130742
Printed Date: 21 May 2025 at 11:02pm
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Topic: D10 hydraulic leak problems
Posted By: Ranse
Subject: D10 hydraulic leak problems
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 10:05am
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I been wanting to get back to work on my D10 for a few months now. One of my biggest issues has been hydraulic leaks. The end caps on the control valve was rusted and pitted on the inside and it was impossible for the O-rings to seal in them. I finally found a machinist willing to make new ones and they look good and I think they will work. Now the problem is I can't find the seals. I've checked all or most of these tractor part websites (Steiners, Yesterdays Tractors, Shoups, etc.) and they all seem to have the same things, and very little hydraulic parts. The seals I need are called wiper seals. They are not simple O-rings. They are a band of rubber with a flange on them that fits in a groove. They go around the front of the spools right behind the levers. They're not leaking badly, but they do seep enough to drip making clean-up impossible. I called a local Agco dealer and was told the parts were discontinued. The guy actually told me "sorry, this is just a tractor that time has passed by." That was a big help, I suppose I should give up then. I don't know anyone who makes parts out of rubber, so I can't go that route again. The only thing I can think of is find another seal that's close and hope it works. Does anyone have any suggestions, or has solved this problem before? The traction booster valve also leaks. Looking at the diagram of it there's not much in it. A washer, an O-ring, and a seal. The seal was available and hopefully the washer and O-ring won't be a problem. Although, there was a part I couldn't get, it's called a dust cover (I'd call it a boot). It's not critical, but I'd like to have it. The other leak I'm pretty sure is around the PTO shaft. Hopefully it's just the outer seal (and I hope it's available). My I&T manual says you have to remove the PTO housing to change it. I've read some criticism about the I&T manual on this forum before and I have trouble understanding it myself. I feel this is mostly due to my inexperience as a mechanic. Is it necessary to remove the housing? And if the housing must come off, I'll need a gasket to replace it. Thanks for any help or advice, and sorry for writing such a lengthy message Ranse. |
Replies:
Posted By: Larry in NC
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 10:27am
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You may be able to get parts through a hydraulic repair shop. There is an AGCO dealer in Thomasville, NC that tries to be helpful in finding third party suppliers. They have helped me locate a couple of things. May be worth a phone call (may not): Joe's Tractor Sales http://www.joestractorsales.com/
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Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 11:45am
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I'm pretty sure you can replace the PTO seal externally as I remember doing it on my D12 The control unit seals I did extensive research years back and found the o-rings as mine leaked out the back home. I polished up the inside and they have worked fine since. I had to replace the balls and spring inside as it shot out when I took the cover off. Mine did not leak at the front so I am no help there. I have seen a few D10/12's with clear tube over the rear parts to catch the oil that comes out the holes! So yes it is a common problem. ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: Ranse
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2016 at 11:15pm
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Thanks guys, I did go to a hydraulic repair shop today and showed them the one of the seals I need. They took measurements and looked in their books and found something they thought might work. Their big concern although, was the parts they ordered was only rated for 15 psi, but they thought considering were they're at there shouldn't be a lot of pressure on them. They were cheap so it's worth a shot. I'm hoping my new caps will solve squirting issue. I installed them temporarily and they didn't leak. The levers where a little hard to move, but I'm using oversized O-rings trying to get the old ones not to leak. The springs are available from Agco because I bought some (can you believe $44 each). The balls I had to get from another supplier. I'm waiting until last thing to install them because I'm afraid of losing them. It hasn't been easy trying to repair this valve, hopefully I'm getting there. Thanks again fellows Ranse. |
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2016 at 5:45am
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I used a spring out of a pen! Fit right in and works for several years now. Local machine shop had the balls. I got 10 for $1. ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: Ranse
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2016 at 9:06pm
| If it works, it works. I probably should got a few extra balls myself. |
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2016 at 5:50am
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I found that if the spring was too stiff it made the lever hard to move. I can't imagine getting someone to make those covers. Takes some good reverse engineering for the inside measurements ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: dustinmo
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2016 at 2:37pm
| took one apart and the balls flew , found them once then lost them trying to put it back together in foot tall grass, went to a bicycle shop and got over 30 balls for a dollar, and I know where they are if you loose them I have a plenty, |
Posted By: Ranse
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2016 at 10:46pm
| Yeah Charlie, I hope I don't have that problem. The springs I got from Agco look to long to me (about an inch). I'm going to have to really compress them to get everything in there. The machinist used some type of putty and made a mold of my old caps and used that to get the measurements. Pretty ingenious to me, but I guess that's just an old machinist trick. |
Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2016 at 9:26am
Curious to what it cost for caps? I think mine needs them also. Tracy ------------- No greater gift than healthy grandkids! |
Ranse wrote:Posted By: Ranse
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2016 at 5:33am
| I figured you could make your own Tracy, you make difficult stuff everyday. I was actually planning to look you up if this guy had failed me. I still have your info you sent. But I don't care to tell you, he had 11 hours in the two at $35 an hour. He cut me a little slack and only charged me $325. Now I'm curious to know, could you have made them cheaper? |