Changing narrow to wide front

3 bolt are the earlier and correct to the WD, but four bolt will work also.  Changing it out isn't that hard to do, just work.  Make a good support for the frame rails.  I made one out of angle iron and made a U that sits solid on the ground.  I picked up the two vertical bolt holes by the front of the engine.  Took off front wheels, popped the pin out of the u joint from the steering shaft to the shaft that goes to the steering wheel.  Unbolt the four bolts on each side of your narrow front bolster.  What I had to do was wedge something between the frame rails to somewhat spread them.  It would help to have the bolts out of the front engine support and the radiator to facilitate that, but sometimes the bolster will come out without doing all that.  Once you get the narrow front one out, put the wide front one in, and bolt in and connect the wide front underneath.  If you're lucky, you can find a narrow front that bolts underneath the wide front bolster, so if you want to switch back and forth, you won't have to remove the bolster ever again.  I wish I had pictures, but I dont'.  

the wd45 i just bought has a rear axle out of a red combine for a wide front. some may call it jimmy rigged, i guess i would have too until i saw it, now it's inginuity! and it works!

It gets more complicated trying to figure out what the last person put it back in with and where they welded, I have yet to find one as original.
   Speaking of the p.s., The coupling below the factory unit only slides a little down the shaft ???? I have sanded my shafts down very little to let coupling slide and shaft can installed or taken out very easily to service joint.

 I remember, 2 x 6's, cement block, couple sockets, long extensions, hammer, bigger hammer, %*@# and more $#%&*. This is where I ordered my roll pin punch set. I was in the yard fighting with it when the UPS truck pulled in with my new toys/tools.
   I am not afraid of them any more, respectful, but not fearful

The last universal I disconnected I dissed it with the blue flame wrench. I just had to cut me a new piece of streessproof to replace the input shaft to the pedestal. The pins I have removed were solid and were swedged into a chamfer on both sides of the u joint.

Guess I was lucky when I put power steering on my 45 recently. The solid pin in the universal came right out and went back in with no problem. Now I am worried that it may not stay in!!! I would hate to have that thing drop out out while I was driving it!!

Larry, Good suggestion but mine has a solid pin, not a roll pin. Maybe I will take it out and reinstall with Loc-Tite.