can a cut-out relay be repaired?

A NAPA store actually have a tractor part  That's the best laugh I've had all day. For anything made before this century even if the snot nose punks even know want you're talking about the best they can do it the old Central Tractor line before they went out of business "We can order it" .  Going to a NAPA store is about as much of a waste of time as expecting to find what you need at a TSC.

1.could find no part number on regulator.  Jay's eBay picture shows it stamped in blue ink on galvanized base next to BAT terminal.  My base is painted black, with no part number visible.

2. I must have a regulator for a 12 volt system based on (a) Jay's link to the 12 volt eBay part, and (b) mine has 3 terminals and 3 coils inside, which must confirm that it is a 12 volt part as per Steve's info.

3. I believe my Allis B wants to be a 6 volt (a) I replaced the old dead battery with a 6 volt [I assume the old battery was 6 volt - but maybe not] (b) It has a generator, not an alternator, (c) the battery cables are heavier than the CA that Steve B helped me convert to 12 volt, (d) BUT I had to replace the 12 volt solenoid with a 6 volt to get the starter to work, (e) BUT I had to replace the 12 volt coil with a 6 volt to get the spark plugs to fire, (f) BUT the regulator is a 12 volt, (g) maybe the old deceased owner was in process of converting to a 12 volt system?

4. I cannot find a name or serial number on the generator.

5. An interesting find when I wired brushed the 3 terminals to get a better connection.  (a) the now visible FLD terminal was connected to the generator's positive post with 16g wire. (b) the now visible ARM terminal was connected to the generator's negative post wire heavier gauge black wire.  I think the FLD and ARM wires are reversed - can anyone confirm?

6. I think I flashed the FLD terminal several times to the positive BAT, because....  Obviously I believe this was wrong - should flash the ARM terminal to BAT.

At first light tomorrow, I'll try to right some of these wrongs.  Maybe it will help, but maybe not.

Yes, mine has a positive ground.  I'm happy with the 6 volt system and it seems to start and run well, after spending some time and money on it.  So I plan to keep it 6 volt.

My next step in trying to get the generator to charge the battery, is to correct the FLD and ARM wiring on the 12 volt voltage regulator.  So just to clarify since it's a 6 volt positive ground: the ARM terminal should be connected to  the positive post on the generator, and the FLD terminal should be connected to the ground post on the generator. I am not hopeful that this will solve my problem, since it's 12 volt and not a 6 volt regulator.

I'll then see if Brenda Knauss from Sandy Lake Equip can determine what replacement 6 volt Cutout Relay I would need to be compatible with my unknown generator model.

If that fails, I'll take my generator and voltage regulator to a generator repair shop and see if they can sort out what I need to make it work.

I read through the link you sent and noted that OP said he replaced his cutout relay with a voltage regulator, as he understood the regulator replaced the need for a 3 position light switch (1st position is low charge, 2nd position is higher charge, and 3 position is light switch).

Again, thanks to everyone for their help.

The 6V regulator I bought you flash the ARM terminal.