camshaft

anyone who's ever heard mlpankeys engines unless they are young and using the word sick in a hip way would not refer to them as a sick air compressor . most back up and stick there fingers in their ears in surprise cause they are use to the mad bumble be sounds most make instead of the deafening sounds a big inch one from him makes.

How about we stop constantly bringing him up? Stick to the subject on hand.

BennyLumpkin wrote: How about we stop constantly bringing him up? Stick to the subject on hand.

 

blue924.9 wrote: Gary in da UP wrote:  This topic has been covered many times before, past posts are a good place to start. Skip over the drama and read for the tech.  I  recommend a 175   Z code grind and have your machinist degree it for you.   Your mph, class's and tires   are the sweet spot for WD45 power levels. well i tried, but as soon as i hit search it said i had timed out and made me start over, i tired it again today and it still did it, so where would i find a cam grinder worth his salt, and should i regrind mine or get a new one, i do believe i have the wd cam in the motor and a wd 45 cam in the parts shed, i was told it was the same, and kind of figured they were the same, what exactly do you mean by its the sweet spot for wd 45 power levels? i am confused by this, also i have no intentions of running any faster ever, so this means i am shooting for a torque monster and lugger rather than aiming for horsepower and rpms, thanks a bunch guys

i dont see how i returned your answer with drama, i said the serach function didnt work, i also asked some more questions like new cam or regrind and asked what you meant in your response, and finally told you i had no intentions of going to a higher mph class so i was shooting for a torque cam, figuring that maybe now that you knew i wasn't trying to spin insane rpms and go insane mph numbers your cam of choice mignt, might change now that you had more detail

Edited by blue924.9 - 25 Aug 2013 at 4:33pm

ahh i see, couldnt really tell but figured this was a good way to find out, sorry bout that guys especially if i offended someone

you are right, i am a rookie on my first season, unlike most i will admit it. i also have all the respect i can give for you guys

Really a 240 cubic incher at reasonable RPMs does fine with the stock grind indexed straight up and the valves properly set. At least it has in our WC with Hi-Crop gears pulling 2nd gear in a 4mph class at about 2000 RPM with 14.9x24 tires. Kip

Steve in NJ wrote: I agree with Ken/MI right at the beginning of this thread, and Kip right at the end. If you're limited to 2.5 mph, as a rule, a 45' engine would be perfect right in that general vicinity. IMHO, that 201 with a 45' crank installed, and a set of larger bore M&W's would work quite nicely. This would keep your wallet in check, and still give you a nice small inch motor to "play" with and dial it into the class as you learn. Kip is a perfect example. Small inch motor, dialed in right makes quite a bit of power for the class "fit". You can still have fun and not go broke. As for a cam, Barney used to widdle camshafts especially for the WD45 motors, but I don't think he widdles cams anymore. Personally, I don't think you need a cam for what you want to run, but that's just my opinion... Steve@B&B

i didnt think i needed a cam either, till i went to a pull a few weeks ago and saw a wd 45 running open class power out in 4500 pound class, in 5000 he put it in first then powered out before 250 feet and and still powered out, at about 170 feet in his heavier classes. i was talking to him and this was what he was running 5.75 inch crank, custom heads ( he is a machinist) custom made block (again he machined it) custom pistons and sleeves ( didnt say how big specifically just said the biggest he could fit in the block) cam ( didnt say from where) beefed up clutch and 16.9 tires. if this combo is running out of power in his lighter weight classes i figure that mine will be just right since i am running a lighter and tamer weight class, i too also heard Barney doesnt do cams anymore

Edited by blue924.9 - 28 Aug 2013 at 8:01am

Something about the story doesn't add up, I can not imagine him running out of power in 4500 or 5000, especially in first gear with what you describe unless it has some serious tuning and set up issues going on, or he was telling you tall tales.  A good running stock 45 weighted to 4500 lbs is just about impossible to stall in first gear, regardless of what the track is.

wi50 wrote: What you really need to do is look through those old threads, even the one called "thinking of top fuel machining" from that mlpankey fella. It's to bad I cleaned out my file mamager and the pictures were deleted, you could read on and on in some of these threads where we (meaning several forum members) taught that pan key fella how to get rods to clear, how to degree cams, basic math and geometry principals, etc. What does jpankey stand for there "jeaous pankey" Anyway on a serious note your existing camshaft is about 20 degrees of duration short of what a good lower rpm pulling cam for one of these engines should be. What this means in simple terms is that your valves are open and moving air for a certain amount of crankshaft rotation. The engine can take advantage of more time to breathe, a longer duration can will do that. If the ranging has to much time to breathe meaning the duration is to long, it will pomp air back out the ports instead of trapping it and using it. If you look in your other thread there Blue, "where to get a cam" you'll find a prime example of specs for such a cam posted by pankey. A cam in that area will make your engine sound like a sick air compressor and you won't have any problem lugging, it'll kill plenty quick. One of the advantages to a ground cam is that the valves will open at a faster rate, meaning less degrees of crankshaft rotation to get the valve open and in a range where it flows more air.You can also controll when the events happen by how the cam is ground and WHERE you position it, meaning how you time it to the crankshaft. I don't expect for a lot of people to understand how to measure out and degree a cam..... just don't take much previously posted information on this forum as it'll be a waste of your time. Spend $20 and buy a good book on these subjects. I degree the cams, lock things togather and mark the gear when I send a cam out. Then there's little question. But people will still do something wrong, call and complain. Then once they get the plug wires back where they belong in the correct fireing order things are fine. Now I'm just giveing examples but i've learned a lot selling parts, never assume that everyone knows everything for sure. But those who are willing to learn will do well. I've typically got some cams on hand if you want one, if you want some specs on what works well, I posted some recently, or send a pm pm, call sometime. I've gotten cams from certain grinders that just don't work well. It seams that everyone thinks lift is important and and wants as much as possible, it's better to have a little less with a little rounder nose, holding the valve at a lesser maximum height but for a longer period of time. Some engines are different, but you don't have to worry about these Allis is heads flowing much much air.

One of the ways to reduce the lift on the cam grind for a certain base circle to have a nose on the lobe is to use murphys 1.85 rockers . the less the lifter rises the less the pushrod flexes. .300 lobe lift x 1.85 rocker is .535 valve lift at .020 lash .

Being the gentleman you talked to is a machinest, obviously, he has an advantage to build something that is completely customized the way it sounds. Stick with the stock block and do some minor mod's. You'll be a bit surprised how much power and torque the smaller AC engines make! Its your Tractor, and you can do what you want to do, but looking at it at a "fun" standpoint with limited funds, you can still have a ball and not have to spend big bucks to make your WD talk. Just remember. Its all in the combination. And, it may take quite a while to find that combo, but once you've found that combo, its gratifing to have a Tractor that runs and pulls good, and brings attention to the competition. Keeps em' on their toes...