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Allis D17 won't move in 1st gear

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote pre64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Allis D17 won't move in 1st gear
    Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 10:52am
I recently purchased an early series 4 D17 from an individual and he told me one of the problems was it would not move in first gear. He thought his grandson had took the top cover off at one time and the forks were not lined up correctly. Since then I have pulled the cover numerous times in an attempt to fix it but it still appears to lock up. All other gears work fine. Even with the cover off and all gears placed in neutral I will slide 1st gear into place and try and move the wheels but they will not. Any ideas on this?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 11:13am
I would have to go look at one of mine with the tranny open, and will later today, but my guess is, it isn't the 1st gear that's the problem, but another collar that is 3rd or 4th or reverse.  What I bet is happening is that in 1st, either 3rd or 4th, or rev. is still engaged, and creating the bind, but in 2nd 3rd 4th or R, the bind doesn't exist.  But again, I have one open and will go look, will be later today.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 11:13am
BTW Welcome to the greatest Allis Forum on the web, great bunch of folks here.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pre64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 11:20am
I wondered about that also however with the cover off and all gears in neutral I can manually slide first gear into position without disturbing the others and it will lock up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 5:46pm
So I looked at the tranny I have open, and no amount of thinking could figure out how any combination of gears, frozen collars, or seized bearings could account for your situation.  So I looked at the shift tower, and maybe you have a detent spring broke or the reverse interlock isn't working correctly.  What I would do is take your shift cover and put it in a vice LIGHTLY, then run it through the gears, making sure only one fork moves any direction at a time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 5:51pm
So I just read your last post, let me look again at a possible 2nd gear seized to the shaft.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pre64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 5:58pm
Already put it in the vise and tried all the positions. All looks good. In your trans will the reverse gear in the forward most position clear the first gear above it? I don't think it looks right and am wandering if this thing had been split and not assembled correctly. Never seen one like this before and have been around them for a long time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 6:04pm
OK, where is your reverse gear, all the way forward, rearward, or in the middle somewhere?  When I read your original post, I assumed you were driving the tractor under it's own power in anything but 1st gear.  Is this the case?  Even if reverse was in engaged it should stop the tractor in any other gear, but if reverse is mostly rearward, and seized to the shaft, or not seized, but the fork didn't engage the collar, when you put the cover on.  Getting the reverse fork into the collar while putting the cover on is a bit tricky.  I could see how putting it in 1st could lock it up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 6:06pm
Is the collar on the reverse gear forward or on the back?  It will never clear the 1st/2nd collar gear, if in the forward position.  In the forward position, it is "in gear"  and the 1st/2nd gear needs to be centered.

The collar for the reverse gear should be on the front


Edited by Orange Blood - 02 Jan 2012 at 6:15pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pre64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 6:39pm
when I assemble the cover and put all gears in neutral the reverse gear is all the way forward. And yes I will drive fine in all gears except first. Even reverse is fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 6:42pm
That's your problem, reverse "in gear" is forward on the shaft, and "out of gear" is rearward on the shaft, to put it a little bit better, when the 1st/2nd collar gear is centered, the reverse gear should be rear of it, to be out of gear, and lined up with it to be in gear.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 6:44pm
My guess is the reason that the tractor drives in all other gears is that the edge of the teeth of the reverse gear have been chewed off so that it will clear when ALL the way forward on the shaft, which it should never be during normal operation.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pre64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 6:51pm
Sorry about the last post. When I put the cover on with all gears in neutral the reverse gear is all the way to the rear not the front.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 7:15pm
Well, then you have me stumped, can you post a good quality picture of the gears?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pre64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 7:24pm
I will get a couple in the morning and post them. Thank you for all your help on this. This one has been a challenge. I am wandering if this thing has been split before I got it and something is together wrong. I have another D17 that needs to be gone through yet but don't have room for it in the shop until this one is done. Thanks again and I will post the pictures in the morning.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 8:11pm
That's why I asked for the pictures, we can tell real fast if its together right.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pre64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 7:34am
Here is a picture of the gears in neutral and also the top cover with shift forks in neutral.
Thanks for your help.
Tim



Edited by pre64 - 06 Jan 2012 at 7:37pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pre64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 7:35am
shifter forks in neutral




Edited by pre64 - 06 Jan 2012 at 7:40pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 10:01am
Best I can figure,when 1/2 sliding collar is slid back to 1st  positiion it is engauging reverse  idler which means reverse idler is not slid back far enough to clear.Can you position things with the top off to get reverse idler out of the way? I can't remember how this works and the pics don't let me see enough,but the idler has to engauge both counter shaft and straight gear on 1/2 collar to get reverse.doesn't the 1st gear position have the 1/2 collar spinning the reverse idler since it wouldn't be engauged with the cluster gear?If so,the idler still has to be reward enough to not engauge the counter shaft?. I'm as confused as you now! Something don't add up. I can't see the sleeve on the idler shaft to the rear of the idler but that don't mean it's not there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 11:48am
With the reverse idler gear shoved rearward as far as it will go, you should be able to "spin" it freely.....if it is still engaged with the gear on the lower shaft, there is an assembly problem with that lower shaft and gear and spacers??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pre64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 12:28pm
Dr. Allis,
If that is the case then we have found the problem. When I slide the reverse gear all the way to the rear, looking down with a flashlight it is still engaged by at least a 1/4" to the lower gear. I will send a picture of it as well. Not sure if you will be able to see it or not.



Edited by pre64 - 06 Jan 2012 at 7:46pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pre64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 12:32pm
Steve,
Your response is in the post with Dr Allis. Didn't want you to think I was ignoring yours.
Thanks
Tim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 12:38pm
Is the bottom shaft flopping for and aft,as in rear bearing clear gone? No matter what... this one gets split to fix it.
 
    Let us know how this turns out please.


Edited by SteveM C/IL - 03 Jan 2012 at 12:40pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pre64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 12:43pm
I don't think so Steve. I am guessing that an amateur has taken this apart and did not set it up correctly before this sucker bought it. When the guy told me that his grandson had taken the top off of it I assumed that the fork had missed the reverse gear when he dropped it in. Oh well, least the shop is warm.
 As soon as I get this split and apart I will post some photos for all to see incase this ever happens to someone else.


Edited by pre64 - 03 Jan 2012 at 12:46pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 3:10pm

 Is the bottom reverse gear installed so the rounded edges of the teeth are rearward so they mate with the rounded teeth on the idler???

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pre64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 3:16pm
Yes I believe so. The other side of the gear you can see in the picture above and it is sqaure on the front side.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 9:16pm
Looking at the wear on your gear train, I imagine one of the spacers on the counter shaft is either to thin, or for some reason worn down, which has allowed the reverse gear on the counter shaft to move rearward, only the thrust on the remaining gears due to the angled teeth keeps them in line.  It' either that, or as you suggest there are different spacers between series 1 and the rest, don't know the difference but if it has been torn apart, the correct ones could have been swapped.  It does appear in the parts manual that the spacer ahead of the revers counter shaft gear is narrower than the one behind it, by maybe a 1/4" or so, so if they were put back in the incorrect order, there is you problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 10:11pm
I don't suppose you bought it cheap.....that would lessen the pain.Oh well, still have a GREAT tractor when fixed!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pre64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2012 at 6:31am
Yes I too believe the spacers on shaft are mixed up in their order. I plan on splitting it today if all goes as planned. I will be posting the results and pictures if possible so all can benefit from this. I certainly appreciate all who have helped.
Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2012 at 6:52am
Many years ago, I actually replaced a bad countershaft bearing ( defective gearshift rubber boot let rainwater in) in a series 3 D17 without a complete teardown of the rearend. I removed the lift arm housing and internal cylinder and split it at the dashboard and from the front and back and the top it took two of us, but we replaced both countershaft bearings and cups. I'd think you might be able to swap spacers around the same way and save a lot of teardown time and labor.
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