AC6g steering clutch

Hello all thanks for the ad. I thought I could sand bag my way through this repair but no luck. First off my dad bought this machine in 1987 and put left steering clutch in it shortly there after. Jump to 1998 ish right clutch froze meaning would not disengage, kinda like the cheap remote control car from the 80s you just had to backup and left clutch to go right. Shortly after the main clutch started slipping. Now present day after waking it from a 20 year near death nap I decided to try and resurrect it. I have tackled the main clutch, Wich happened to be a broken pressure plate caused by worn-out through out coller pins. Worked my way to Allis's hind end where I found her right cavity half full of watery mouse goodness. This is where I started at the wrong end. So I'm in it for too much dinero to exit stage left and let some Auto maker turn it into 23 full sized trucks. I finally muscled the brake drum and what was left of the clutch, thanks to John from General Gear. However that's where I damaged the ol girl. I put the rebuilt clutch back in and fastened it back to both flanges and I noticed that I have 1 whole disk sticking out of the drum. I have tried to pry the drum back to center but cannot move. I looked at the cap at the other end of the shaft under the track pad and it looks unscathed.dont know where I gained 1/4 of an inch at, but that's what it is off compared to the left side measuring the drum to center cavity wall.Sorry for the long post but any help would be greatly appreciated.

Well not exactly I paid close attention to that . I'm trying to get a picture posted and not have much luck. From drive flange to driven flange is 1/4 inch wider on the side I took out. I struggled to get the clutch pack out. I had to pry the flanges away from clutch pack and stick a shim washer in before removing the pry bar then I could Jack it out.

If the distance between flanges is 1/4" greater than on the other side you likely have a bad bearing. Remove the cover between the steering clutch covers and the cover on the rear of the final drive housing to inspect the ring and pinion clearance. the timkin roller bearing is damaged. You moved the ring gear away from the pinion gear

When the steering clutch pack thickness is incorrect the error thickness is inside the drum. The fact that you have a friction that was not inside the drum is a serious error signal. You will have to remove the clutch assembly again. Check that the bolts holding the drum are 1" long. As Coke-in-MN said if the bolts are too long they push on the pressure plate.

You might send the pictures to someone else, such as Mel, as he has it figured out, and then he can post them for you.

Compare my picture to yours. Note the entire clutch pack is inside the drum.
The only way this could happen to you is if the flanges are too far appart
(Like you said) of if your drum was cut down (not likely) The drum width from flange to end is 4.62" The first thing to do is to remove the clutch pack and find out why the flanges moved.

Take another picture from farther away.

The ring gear bearings are in a separate compartment separate bearings on that side - 
the top gear on the outboard side is supported on a set of bearings - one side in steering clutch case and other under cap bolted by top of track on outside of case - 
No the track does not need to be removed . 

With the steering clutch removed Try to move the flanges to feel for bearing damage. My best guess is it is on the inboard side. I have an HD5 with the steering clutch removed I can measure the distance between flanges if it will help.

You are probably right GemDozer. The flange looks seized pretty tightly on the shaft and it doesn't appear that it's moved any time recently. Could that have been caused by the bolt not being in there and it working back and forth for years?

The guy who had this machine before he maybe working with  the bolt loosen on shaft flange and with time he had back lach on shaft and flange and maybe cut the end flange 1/8 inch at the end the flange could go more far on taper shaft  and the flange could pull out the drum and you have a stering cluch disc out.I see this on CATERPILLAR D7

The before and after pictures tell the story. The before picture shows part of the steering clutch hub outside the drum, but not as much as the after photo. My picture does not show the clutch hub because it is inside the drum. I had to get 1/8" on both sides before I could remove the clutch pack. I agree that it looks like the flanges are further apart now.

Consider using 1/2" bolts long enough to reach the final drive housing on the same side and a bit more. The bolts will need to have a full length thread. Put the bolts thru the flange holes and run a nut up to the flange. Use as jack screws to move the flange.

Good luck

As you can see I had to put washers between the flanges and clutch hub/ brake drum to keep space to pull past lip on flange. The left side pressure plate sticks in 1/16 however the first disk has no teeth to grab drum and the one I replaced was same way. I guess what I'm asking is if it's only driving off of 9 on the left is it really mandatory to change the flange?