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Dirt Farmer 
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Joined: 15 Sep 2020
Location: Illinois
Points: 352
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 Posted: 26 Jan 2022 at 1:34am |
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Your shop project is looking great, I was wondering if you could take the metal you cut out for the opening and put a track on the inside for the door and have the door slide straight up and down inside the bin, using a chain and pulley system to raise and lower the door and latch it to the bin when down, no banging doors in the wind or blowing off the track or loss of overhead space
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tadams(OH)
Orange Level Access
Joined: 17 Sep 2009
Location: Jeromesville, O
Points: 10119
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Posted: 26 Jan 2022 at 2:38pm |
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A guy might put hinged on it a cble lift and fold up legs a use it like a roof over the door as a shaded area. Put a rubber strip about 4" wide all the way around to seal the weather out.
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8278
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Posted: 26 Jan 2022 at 6:31pm |
Dave, Great work on your new shop! You have done a lot in a short cold time! I was in one of these in Ohio. As mentioned they had framed in the opening square for a over head door. Your going to like having more space! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DaveKamp
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Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
Points: 5754
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Posted: 29 Jan 2022 at 3:27pm |
Hi Guys!
Yeah, I've been considering the straight-up, either inside, or outside. Ideally, it'd be on the inside, so that it would be 'stealthy', but the worn area leading up to it would give away the use, right?
I considered swing up, and swing out... both cases are challenged by snow drifts and ice... but might not be out of the question. I like the shade-area of legs, but that piece Nick helped me cut out is pretty svelte, and kinda floppy, so I dunno. I got a tarp covering it right now, held in with big spring clamps. Definitely 'agricultural' in style, but it's just enough to help keep enough of the furnace heat inside... to make me dilligent in keeping the clips on! ;-)
I got another bin just like this one, Chris... it's about a ring height taller, and different design, but I like how this one is, and I'll do same on the other. I think this one will get a 4-post lift, the other I'll use for longer-term project work. I have determined, just from stoking the firebox, that welding and cutting inside, should not be considered without adding forced-air ventilation, but having the ring-of-lights about 9 feet up is EXCELLENT!!!
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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orangeman
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 1763
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Posted: 29 Jan 2022 at 3:35pm |
Dave:
Three words - American Ingenuity - Talent!
~ Orangeman
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DaveKamp
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Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
Points: 5754
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Posted: 01 Feb 2022 at 8:25pm |
Hee hee...
Well, 'Necessity is the Mother of Invention'... in this case, it was just a situation where I was NOT going to put it back into operation as a dryer, but at 27ft diameter, it was absolutely PERFECT for working on cars, small trucks, and tractors... so getting whacked over the head by the obvious, I just had'ta do it. The ingenuity will be forthcoming, though... ;-) Dunno what I'll do with that door, nor how I'll deal with the rest of the interior and exterior, but I'm gonna share it when I do...
And when I do something stoopid, I'll be hoping y'all will tell me about it right away!!!
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8278
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Posted: 06 Feb 2022 at 7:56pm |
Dave, The 4 post lift would be perfect in there! Hope things are good! You staying warm in there? Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DaveKamp
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Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
Points: 5754
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Posted: 06 Feb 2022 at 10:54pm |
Well... YOU, of all people, should know that 'warm' is a relative thing at our lattitude, Chris!
The doorway is 3/4 covered by a tarp held on with spring clips, but it faces the east, and our prevailing chill-wind is from the northwest, so it ain't by any measure 'insulated', but the wind doesn't cut through... the slab isn't warm, even IF there's a good fire burning, so I have a couple pieces of 2" pink foam I slid under my daughter's car to do the driveshaft reinstallation, and that helped substantially. Once I get a lift inside, I won't hafta worry about lyin' on a cold floor, will I ? ;-)
If it's a fairly calm day, I can get that furnace roaring pretty good, the whole top of the bin traps warm air, and it works it's way down to about two feet off the floor, which is excellent when compared to -15F in the driveway. Once I get proper doors, remove the blower plenum and close off that hole, and mebbie tarp across it at about 14ft, it ought'a be pretty good. Unless I do something drastic (like put down 2" foam, and pour a 6" slab with PEX), I will NOT get a warm floor... but that'd be something like 10 yards, plus another 3yds for an apron to ramp up to it... I got some other projects that need those resources FIRST... 
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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shameless dude
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Joined: 10 Apr 2017
Location: east NE
Points: 13607
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Posted: 07 Feb 2022 at 1:32am |
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looking good Dave...i love it when people use what is sitting around first! for a temp door that never left one of my shed projects, i took an old well pipe i had laying around, cut it to the size of about 1 ft wider than the opening of my shed on ezch side. took 2 of them "U" shaped clamps and drilled holes in the tin on each side of the opening, slid the well pipe in them and tightened the "U" bolts tight, i made some heavy wire loops and put them in the exsisting holes of a heavy tarp so i could open it up from either side by sliding the tarp on the pipe. i also put 2 chains, attaching 1 end of each chain on the side of the door opening. the chain came from old sprayer booms i had, then attached a tarp strap on the ends of the other side of the chains, i sandwiched the tarp in between the 2 chains just a bit lower than 1/2 way down the opening. pull the tarp strap and hook them into an eye bolt on the other side, this kept the wind from blowing the tarp in or out. did a great job of keeping blowing snow out too. the sun eats up them plastic tarps, they only last a year or some better, and it's easy to replace them and cheap too. the door i made on my shed this way was about 12 ft wide. not sure on height but my 7010 with cab would drive in the doorway.
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DaveKamp
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Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
Points: 5754
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Posted: 08 Feb 2022 at 12:19am |
Thanks for the tip, SD!
Because of the inconvenient timing of that climactic circumstance that creeps in around mid November, my outdoor work tends to get very 'abbreviated' in quality... and becomes very 'utilitarian'. My general plan is that once winter passes, I'll attend to adding a proper door framework, first to soften that sharp edge, next to provide some structural recovery for the chunk I excised, and third, to serve as the support for whatever 'proper' door I affect.
I'll admit, the hole is NOT tall enough for some of the things I'd plan on pulling in. When I get 'round to continuing the Schwartz project (a heavily-moified WD with cab), I'll need more overhead space, and I'd LIKE it to be tall enough for me to drive my step-van (the band equipment truck) in for various service... I'll need the doorway height taller... probably about 10ft or so. If I build an overhanging entrance, that doorway hole might be higher... 13ft or so, and the overhang would be 11.
Reason I didn't cut it higher, was because I was using an engine-driven abrasive saw whilst standing on a ladder, with a problematic right knee, on a somewhat brisk day, with nobody else around to drag my hide to a hospital. Three days later, my Son was back from college and helped me get the spot cut clear and open so I could start removing the drying floor. The height of the ladder limited my ability to make any higher cuts. I was up just high enough to get the D17 backed in... the exhaust stack flapper could swing up and whack the steel if I goosed the throttle, but idled down it'd clear it fine.
Fortunately, I've got some improvement options forthcoming. For Christmas, I bought myself a tiny little 55A plasma cutter ($406 on my doorstep) and after a correction, and some minor improvements, it does a wonderful job, and will vastly simplify and improve the quality of a better opening. When weather moderates, I'll fire up my self-propelled work platform (the one I made from the old detassling machine) and drive it over against the wall, lay out a straightedge at my desired height, and make a cut to the height I REALLY want.
Once summer comes around, and I have my better half's new patio poured, I'll jump back on this one, and at same time, I'll prepare the north bin for the same exercise, but with plasma, rather than brute-force and abrasives.
For what it's worth, though, I saw plenty of videos of guys trying to open these cans up with 4" grinders and cutting blades... and also with sawzalls, and even torches. I DID have those options, but instead I chose the gas saw, and I would STILL choose the gas saw, if the little plasma torch wasn't available. The downside, is that the TS-420, although only half the size and weight of my TS-760, is still a ghastly brute to hold over-your-head, while standing on a ladder. If the weight, at that angle, isn't enough, the centrifugal force of that big blade, and the healthy shower of galvanized steel sparkies in my hair sealed the deal. The vertical cuts weren't nearly as bad as trying to navigate a straight horizontal over the header, and in order to make the header cut, I had to lean my ladder on the part that I was cutting out.
The little plasma will be SO much nicer... hang the unit (it's seven pounds) from a strap on the inside wall, hook up 240v single-phase plug, and air hose from the compressor, put the torch against the straightedge and pull the trigger...
Edited by DaveKamp - 08 Feb 2022 at 12:21am
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8278
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Posted: 10 Feb 2022 at 9:22am |
Dave, I dont have a plasma cutter, yet. seems it would be a really nice tool fob fab work. should work good and be much safer too. My shop is pretty comfortable, but comes with a hefty price! Sounds like your putting your new area to good use for projects! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Dusty MI
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Charlotte, Mi
Points: 5058
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Posted: 10 Feb 2022 at 6:14pm |
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I hope that PVC conduit is on the North side, because PVC does not hold up well to direct sunlight.
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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JohnColo
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Joined: 03 Apr 2020
Location: Niwot, CO
Points: 1258
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Posted: 11 Feb 2022 at 8:53pm |
Looks to me like we have another yOUR shop! You can paint the pvc pipe with white paint and it lasts well. We do that in our area and it's a whole lot sunny and closer to the sun than you are.
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DaveKamp
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Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
Points: 5754
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Posted: 12 Feb 2022 at 9:06am |
Hi Dusty!
Yes, it IS on the north side... it's been there for at least 25yrs. It's fairly well shaded through most of the year, and it'll be getting covered, too.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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