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XT Final drive bearing |
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captaindana ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Fort Plain, NY Points: 2559 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 25 Jun 2012 at 5:17pm |
is trashed and I would believe that is why the seal let go.
So although I aint the sharpest knife in the drawer, I believe I have to pull the wheel off the axle. Then I can do what I need to do, but still I have the bolt in the bottom of the final drive to deal with. One step at a time. It makes since cause when I drained all the fluids when I got this the left final had only 2 quarts in it. Edited by captaindana - 25 Jun 2012 at 5:19pm |
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DanWi ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: wttn Points: 1919 |
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When you drained that side this time then there wasn't extra trans fluid in that side or was the trans just low for some other reason?
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ALLISMAN32 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Mar 2011 Location: Hillsboro, IN Points: 199 |
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Wonder what the inner bearing looks like? Were you supposed to slightly overfill the left side for plowing applications?
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captaindana ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Fort Plain, NY Points: 2559 |
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Dan that question I keep asking myself! The left final drive had some spider cracks which we sealed with jbweld. I topped it with 2.5 gals last fall and it never leaked. So after draining trans oil and pulling rear pto, I see the trans [new] oil from last fall is yellow from water. It had a ton of water in trans when I drained it. The oil which leaked in the field on the steep hill was not trans oil cuz it wasn't yellow. Why the trans oil was low I am guessing when I refilled it and drove around some pockets filled and it probably lowered to just not quite touching the bayonet. I have to get the fully weighted wheel off, then I can see to fix bearings. As I said that bolt in the final drive drain is still an issue. Jeepers I don't have many tools big enough to mess with that wheel; ugh.
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Jim Lindemood ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: Dry Ridge, KY Points: 2569 |
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I have confidence in you - be back up and running in no time - is that wheel heavy, LOL
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Alberta Phil ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Points: 3915 |
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Capn; it's always nice to have a good excuse to buy more tools!! Then you can 'get er done'!!
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DanWi ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: wttn Points: 1919 |
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Hey capt found a hand pallet jack like the ones used in wharehouse and semi trailers, works to move tires and wheels in and out once you have them loose. just need a concrete surface or a few sheets of heave plywood to work on.
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captaindana ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Fort Plain, NY Points: 2559 |
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BTW when I was looking at this tractor pre buy the guy said his dad had fallen asleep and drove through a stone wall fence and cracked that housing. I am now thinking that bolr coming out cracked it. I was investigating the cracks when we jb'd them and kept telling Ian the crack was made from the inside outwards. I now believe I was correct. My immediate issue is getting the wheel off the axle. There are 3 bolts holding the hob and my buddy says they never want to come apart.
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Lynn Marshall ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Dana, Iowa Points: 2375 |
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You're going to need those special pusher bolts (jack screws) to get the axle hub off, if you don't already have a set.
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captaindana ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Fort Plain, NY Points: 2559 |
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Yeah I have been studying what needs to be done here. But for the life of me I can't see how any 1/2x1 bolt can get into the final drive assembly but its there and I will figure this out!
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