Won't move forward or reverse

Take a look at your inching pedal linkages. Move the pedal up and down and watch the valve on the trans. just to make sure it moves freely. If it were stuck in the "in position" you wouldn't get pressure readings to fwd or reverse at least. With no pump pressure and engine running you're back to where you will have to pull both transmissions out (no little job) to see what's happening with the pump. 

When I push the pedal the valve in the trans moves freely in and out.

Good morning,

First off, thank you Eric. To briefly describe the fluid I talking about. It never leaked until I added ATF fluid to the transmission dip stick location on the left side of the loader above the starter. While waiting for a replacement starter, I topped off all the fluids, changed the filters, added fluids, etc.. Once the new starter was installed, I turned the key and it started perfectly. However the ATF fluid came out of a manufactured opening (roughly 1/10" wide by 6" long rectangular opening) on the housing of what I believe is the transmission housing that follows the oil pan.

Any advice, wisdom, or troubleshooting tips are greatly appreciated.

Very respectfully,
Brian

Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 08 Jul 2015 at 8:38am

By the way Brian, the link you have for an oil pump looks to be an oil pump for the engine (notice it says engine parts at the top). The reason it fits your machine and several others is the Perkins engine. You (likely) need a pump for the forward reverser transmission. Here is the place and price from last year when I bought one...most likely the same one in your machine. You could always contact them for particulars. As I said previously however, don't order any parts 'til you know what you need.

Pump Assembly?

SKU:A508005

 

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/R29995-Case-Torque-Charge-Pump-New-Aftermarket-L30488-137093A1-A508005-D51231-/230684751952

 

 

https://www.reliableaftermarketparts.com/p-36887-pump-assembly.aspx

 

 

I liked dealing with Reliableaftermarketparts...you should try to confirm on the phone that this fits your 715, personally I'm sure it's the right one. Remember DON NOT ORDER ANY PARTS BEFORE  YOU GET IT APART! You have to raise the machine with enough clearance to get the transmissions out from under the machine. You will probably find all the instructions in your 715 Manual. The first time this happened to my machine THE OIL PUMP WAS OK, I DID NOT NEED TO REPLACE IT! But the converter neck needed repair because the flex plate was broken and needed to be replaced. A new seal was put in the pump but the pump itself was perfectly good. The pump is mounted right at the front of the fwd/rev trans, it's the first thing you see once you pull the tranny away from the engine. You need to be working on concrete and be using a really good transmission jack. My mechanic used a forklift with side shift to move the trannies away from the engine and then lowered them down. You may need to hire help to do this work, it is not an easy procedure if you haven't done it before. 

That spot where oil leaks ... I really don't know. I don't have my machine any more so I'm not able to go out there and look .

Do you have the big repair manual for your 715 backhoe? If you do there should be some procedure outline for removing the transmissions in order to get to the flex plate and the oil pump. If you don't have instructions in the manual you just crawl under and look the job over...drive shaft off, linkages, cables, shifter, cooling lines etc. You must have a heavy duty and safe jack on which the trans. will be secure. Once everything is removed including the bolts from the fwd reverser to the bell housing on the engine you slide the trannies back to disconnect from the engine then lower down. If your torque converter has a drain plug, turn it to the bottom and drain the oil out before separating trannies from engine or you'll have running out the converter neck. When you get this far you'll see what to do from there.

get it on level ground - get a couple sheets of steel or plywood (3/4") to work on and to support jack - if you want more working room raise machine using buck and backhoe legs , then block machine in that up position using cribbing to make  sure it is stable 

If anyone has any free time and would be willing to come help us work on this, we would be happy to fly you out here to Vermont. Plus we will make you good food and cake to sweeten the deal. :)

Hi Eric,

Good move!! Glad you're taking Coke's advice about flat ground and as he said get some heavy plywood on top of the ground. Great support of the machine!! You guys would make good house movers too . Have you looked for "procedure" in your manual? If your transmission support jack is big enough you can remove both trannies together otherwise take out the 4 speed first and then the fwd rev trans. Good thing you are a team of three, which of the three are you Brian? Take care and be safe!  Eric.

Update: received the 2 ton hoist in the mail, attached it to a logging chain strung up and around the cab and ran through the floor around the transmission. (as suggested by a genius on this site, if I hadn't I'd still be trying to figure out that step) :) 

Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 03 Aug 2015 at 3:01pm

I started labeling and prepping everything last night. I removed the c-clips from the u-joint on the driveshaft and the one end cap that has bearings in it. But I am unable to slide it apart or remove the rod. Is a trick or something I am missing.

Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 05 Aug 2015 at 10:20am

Thanks Eric, I will give that a try tonight. :)