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WM CRAWLER |
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merjamika ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 Jun 2010 Location: Ontario Canada Points: 10 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 30 Jun 2010 at 7:45am |
Just Picked up an Allis M Crawler (I think its an M or WM)
1st question is: What year is this little beast? The serial number is WM1698.
2nd Question: Was electric start an option on these because this one has no place that I can find for a starter.
I havent had the crawler running yet, seeing as I dont know the machine too well, I would like to tow it for the first few starts. The left brake doesnt seem to be working on it, but the clutches seem to be good. I have both housings soaking with thinner for a few weeks while I get some manuals in. Just hoping to make the thing mobile so it can run beside its Big brother at our show. (the big brother being our L crawler Serial number L3447)
Any help would be appreciated
Mike Inglis
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Rfdeere ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Idaville, IN Points: 3283 |
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Your M is a 1935. Electric start and lights was a factory option. According to my serial number list the last L built was 3357 in 1942.
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Randy Freshour,Member Indiana AC Partners,
http://www.rumelyallis.com |
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merjamika ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 Jun 2010 Location: Ontario Canada Points: 10 |
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I will double check my serial number, but i believed it to be a 1939, Where on the L is the serial number stamped? I am going by the info wrote in our factory manuals.
Is there a source for chains for the little m crawler? Ours are wore thru to the pins
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Dave Everett ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: England Points: 875 |
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UNDER NO!!!!!!!!!!! CIRCUMSTANCES ATTEMPT TO TOW START IT.........
YOU WILL TEAR THE TEETH OFF THE BULL GEARS AS THE TORQUE IS ALL REVERSED AND YOU ARE TRYING TO DRIVE BIG GEAR TO SMALL INSTEAD OF THE OTHER WAY AROUND.......YOU WILL ALSO SPLAR THE TRACKFRAMES.....
if the steering clutches are stuck, then the ONLY safe way if to remove the track and final drive and seperate and clean the clucth plates individually. DONT be tempted to hitch to a tree and drive off hoping to break the pplates fee cos all you will do is tear the teeth off of the raybestos plates, then boy ARE YOU IN TROUBLE!!!!!!
I have done 6 M crawlers believe me I know.
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merjamika ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 Jun 2010 Location: Ontario Canada Points: 10 |
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I double checked the serial number on the L and it is L3131
Could you help me out on what the shift pattern is on this crawler?
I really appreciate any and all help I get
Mike Inglis
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M Diesel ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 26 Feb 2010 Location: Las Vegas Points: 128 |
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Dave, what is up with a tow start? Not my cup o tea either, but usually a gasser in high gear works okay ifn ya don't jam the clutch. But then I haven't dealt with an M.
Excellent advice on the clutches too. Any sticking clutch is so bad off inside that to me it defies all logic to "break them free" and run it. Any gain is very temporary. I have heard from many people that did it (or at least say they know someones cousin who had a friend who did), but it seems you never hear from them a year later on how well things are going. I can't imagine all that crud grinding away as being beneficial. Good luck on the M. :) Got pics of the L?
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Dave Everett ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: England Points: 875 |
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Mike
problem with tow starts on an M specifically is that you are only driving on part of the tooth on the main bull gears, not the whole width.they WILL strip one tooth from the bull gear then you ARE screwed. Please believe me on this one !! I have done it myself and am also now on M total rebuild number 6. I have 2 old time M mechanics who worked on these since they first came to the UK in the 1930s. I personally have worked with them since i was 15, And the 2 old guys one is 84, the other 70, If they tell you something WILL happen if you do a certain thing........you better believe it will !!!
Trouble is with hitching to free the steering clutches is that there are 8 of each, fibre and steel, in the pack, and when you *break* them free, usually they only come apart between 1 steel and 1 fibre plate, the rest stay as a lump.......and as for wear, well the rest is history. I find its also a good idea when reassembling steering clutch packs, to put plenty of freeing oil between the plates, its not thick enough to lubricate the to let them slip, but is enough to keep rust at bay for a fair period.
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