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Jim.ME View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2021 at 3:16pm
You need a multimeter with a DC voltmeter scale that will read 20 volts and down.  Check to see what the voltage is when measured across the battery terminals when the switch is off.  Then measure it again while the engine is cranking.  Test at the starter solenoid to ground as well, both setting and cranking.  The difference in the readings will give an idea of the battery, battery cable, and starter conditions.  Make the checks and post the results.  Turning a lot slower when the plugs are in, could be a sign of a bad cable or connection, weak battery, weak starter or some level of all those things.
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hunter321 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hunter321 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2021 at 3:50pm
The battery is brand new and the battery cables are brand new to
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2021 at 4:13pm
They may be new, but sometimes you do all the tests to have a base to work from.  In this case the battery and cable checks should give good results.  Having those good results on record will make the results of the voltage check when the starter is cranking the engine over (with the plugs in) more meaningful of the starter condition.  Also a check is most generally worthwhile as even new parts have been found to be bad at times.  You can also check the voltage at the starter while cranking with the plugs out.  If the starter cranking makes the voltage drop way down from when it wasn't cranking, it is a possible sign of a bad starter.  Good mechanics/technicians use diagnostic tests to try to figure out what is wrong, instead of just replacing parts willy-nilly.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2021 at 4:23pm
hunter, i think you said you have a 6 volt battery. 6 volt systems naturally turn slower than 12 volt systems.. Also the 6 volt system normally has BIGGER diameter battery cables than the 12 volt... Half the voltage, twice the AMPS to get the same power out of the motor.  You have to be real particular with the cables, clamps, ground, etc when using 6 volts..

As long as it is turning over fast enough to start, that is fine... With 6 volts it will not spin over like your dads truck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hunter321 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 2021 at 9:58am
Me and my dad are going to try to pull start the tractor to see if the starter is the reason it is dragging when it try's to start
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hunter321 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 2021 at 10:29am
if it does start when we pull start it does that mean the starter needs to be rebuilt?

Edited by hunter321 - 12 Mar 2021 at 11:49am
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 2021 at 12:17pm
could be a weak starter, or a bad terminal at some point... if not that, you can rebuild the starter, or use a 12 volt battery on the tractor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hunter321 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2021 at 11:15am
I know that all the contact points are clean and all the connections are tight once i cleaned everything I tried starting starting it. it turned over faster but still didnt start.     me and my dad are waiting to try and pull the tractor until the roads dry up

Edited by hunter321 - 30 Mar 2021 at 11:24am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hunter321 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2021 at 8:24am
we pulled the tractor the firs time and nothing happedend so we stopped for the night we cleaned a few things and messsed with stuff and tried it again the next day it sortof started but would die when the truck stopped moveing. why is this. there is fuel 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2021 at 9:25am
you need FUEL, SPARK and at the RIGHT TIME..... If you know you have FUEL, then you need to check for GOOD SPARK... If you have that, then your timing is off..... Only 3 things.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hunter321 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2021 at 9:36am
is this why it died when the truck stopped moving
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2021 at 1:03pm
when you drag the tractor around you are forcing the motor to rotate and suck in gas from the carburetor. The spark may be weak or randomly firing. Gas builds up in the cylinder and will make it "POP" randomly.  If you had GOOD spark and correct timing, it should start, assuming you have any kind of compression at all.

You got a new coil.. Was it a 6 volt ?  Are the spark plug wires in the order 1-2-4-3 in a clockwise direction ? Did you get a new capacitor when you cleaned the point ? ...

Something is just a LITTLE BIT OFF...... causing you problems.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hunter321 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2021 at 9:40am
i belive the firing order is correct the i didnt romove the spark plug wires, they are the same as they where when i got the tractor.

when we pulled it it did pop a lot.   I didnt get a new coil or capacitor either.

also the throtle lever only moves the rod that is connected to the carburater  a little is this normal
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr 2021 at 5:46am
The carb link rod is moved by the governor, which is moved by the throttle lever so the amount of travel seen on both is not necessarily proportional.

I understand you saying you believe the firing order is correct, since you didn't remove the plug wires, they are the same as when you got the tractor.  However, how can you be sure that in the years between when it last ran and the point where you started working on it, someone else didn't move the wires around?  I strongly recommend you check that the rotor lines up with #1 cylinder when it is on compression and that the wires are in the correct firing order, in the direction the rotor turns.   It is a simple basic check and doesn't cost you anything but a few minutes of time.  Finding #1 compression has been gone over before earlier in this thread, and if you are  not sure which way the rotor turns, you can watch it turn with the cap off when the engine is cranked over.   Check and know, don't just believe in this case.

If it popped some, your close to getting it, keep at it, it will run.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hunter321 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr 2021 at 8:30am
Ok I will try that
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