wiring

As Steve said, try some ATF in the cylinders to loosen things up. A compression gauge would tell you a lot. When you turn it over with a crank, does it seem that each turn takes equal force?

He said the final drive seal

If you don't have a compression tester available you can squirt a little gas in each cylinder then install the plugs and try to start it. If it runs for a couple of seconds then you have enough compression for it to run and then I would look at the carburetor next.

Yes, it is possible for a gas line to be plugged.  A quick check is to take a quart jar or such to catch gas in, and remove the drain plug from the bottom of the carburetor bowl and see how much gas you catch in the jar in two minutes.  You should get at least a pint.  If it doesn't flow that much in a steady stream you will need to drain the tank and start checking for a blockage.  It may be plugged right in the sediment bowl housing above the tank shutoff valve.  You have to remove the sediment bowl housing to check and clean it correctly.  I have fixed a number that were plugged in that location.  Blowing back through the gas line can open it up for as while ( the air can also blow the sediment bowl gasket out), but if the tank is dirty in will plug again. 

You need to have at least enough gas in it to cover the outlet in the tank. Just as it sets, do you have gas in the sediment bowl and, if you pull the drain plug out of the carb bowl does it have gas in it?  If it has that much gas in it I think it would at least fire if all other things are right.

this is what I have done so far

 https://docs.google.com/document/d/1UFrPqZJGU3uhSaHj19A6XjEK9KKMHNtJbAfLofFBzV8/edit?usp=sharing

Just am wondering from reading what you have done to your tractor you said that you replaced the spark plugs. Is your tractor in time still. As particular as you were about rewriting the lights I can’t imagine you pulled off all the plug wires and then tried to guess where they went. But I have seen this happen before and the plugs are firing out of order.

#1 may not match where a book shows it in a picture.  Are you sure the spark at #1 plug matches when #1 cylinder is on compression.  I have pulled #1 plug and ground it near its hole (You may get a shock if you try to hold the plug). Hold a finger tightly over the plug hole and have someone crank the tractor over.    You should see the spark at the plug the same time it pushes your finger off the hole, if the timing is close.   You need the wires in the right firing order, going around the cap in the same direction as the rotor travels.  

the wires where still attached to the distributor cap when I started

I suggest you do the compression test, and record the results, so you know where compression stands.  There might be a stuck valve, or other issue, from setting.  Then while the plugs are out, line them up, wires connected, near the cylinders they go in and crank it over to see if the spark at the plugs match the puff of compression out of each hole.

I have not removed all of the spark plug wire since I got it because I didnt want to forget where they went. I dont think anyone has turned the distributer since it ran last.  I do know that when the pionts open they make spark. my dad thinks the rings might be stuck

Edited by hunter321 - 24 Feb 2021 at 11:14am

Have you tried turning it over with a hand crank? Does it turn over the same with the spark plugs in or out ?

It turns over slow compared to our oliver tractor

We put atf in the spark plug hole and it turned over a lot faster but when we put the spark plugs back in it still turned over very slow