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hunter321 
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 Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 1:31pm |
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I dont think I have power coming from the coil
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hunter321
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Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 5:39pm |
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How do I know if the coil is bad
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Jim.ME
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Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 7:37pm |
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The two small terminals on the coil are the primary side terminals, the high voltage wire is called the secondary. With the key on and the points open (they must be open) you should have power at the two small terminals on the coil. If you only have power on the switch side (- terminal), try unhooking the primary wire going to the distributor and checking the terminals again. If you have power on both terminals with the wire to the distributor unhooked, the coil is most likely ok. If the terminals both had power look for that primary wire, the condenser wire, or the straps on the points being grounded out. If the points aren't opening it could be a problem as well. What are you using to test for power? Voltmeter, 6 volt test light, or something else?
Edited by Jim.ME - 01 Feb 2021 at 7:39pm
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hunter321
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Posted: 02 Feb 2021 at 8:30am |
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I have a normal test light
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Jim.ME
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Posted: 02 Feb 2021 at 10:40am |
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Your test light will work to make those tests. Let us know what you find.
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hunter321
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Posted: 02 Feb 2021 at 6:48pm |
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I don't have power from the secondary wire from the coil
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Jim.ME
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 7:05am |
The opening and closing
of the points collapses the field inside the coil, producing the secondary high
voltage for the spark. There are some tests that can be done with a test light at the secondary terminal but are not as commonly done. Did you have power at both primary (small)
terminals when tested as I posted? What were the results at each test
location I asked about? Here is a link to an IH/Farmall FOS (Fundamentals Of Service) manual, on the Farmall Cub website, that I think will help you understand the coil and ignition system better. Understanding how things work will make the test results more meaningful to you. The theory and components are common to both IH and AC (and about anything with a point type distributor ignition). It details several tests you can make besides the ones you have been given so far. http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%20Ribbon%20Service%20Manuals/FOS-20%20Chapter%206-Ignition%20Circuits/FOS-20%20Chapter%206-Ignition%20Circuits.htm
Edited by Jim.ME - 03 Feb 2021 at 7:05am
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hunter321
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 8:19am |
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I have power to the other 2 terminals
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 8:36am |
hunter, you have run the basic tests.. You have 12 volts INTO the coil and 12 volts OUT of the coil. If the point is corroded and not closing, you would still have voltage at the coil terminals... Your next step is to clean the point contacts and then touch them together with a screw driver or wire and see if you get a spark... or loose the 12 volts on the coil wire to the point.........
"NORMALLY" what happens at this point is the guy would replace the point and the condenser and see if that fixes the problem.. If not, then buy a new coil... It is hard to pinpoint exactly what the problem is at this point.. You have done all the testing.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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hunter321
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 9:06am |
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Should I have 6 volts because it is a 6 volt system
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 9:09am |
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YES.... my bad........ If you have 6 volts into the coil, and 6 volts out of the coil to the POINT, then that is good... and the point is OPEN... try to short out the point ( clean contact facts) and CLOSE the point to see if you loose the 6 volt on the small wire TO the point. ............. again, there is no way to say 100% exactly what is wrong.. Your close.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 9:10am |
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Now that you say it is 6 volts, that makes me question the coil... It may be VERY OLD ? Still need to check the point for clean first.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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hunter321
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 9:15am |
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The tractor has not started in at least 14 years
It just wont start
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hunter321
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 9:18am |
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Me and my dad think it is the coil or the distributor or the
Sparkplug wires
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hunter321
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 10:56am |
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So I should get a new coil
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 12:52pm |
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If you replace the coil, the point and the condenser, you should be in good shape... If you want to try the coil only, that is a good first step, but drag some fine sand paper or etc thru the point faces to make sure there is no CORROSION on the faces.. Setting for 14 years is almost 100% guarantee of some contamination on the faces.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 12:53pm |
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If you get a new coil, make sure you tell them it is a 6 volt SYSTEM... Dont use a 12v coil.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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hunter321
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 12:59pm |
I was going to order this 
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Mdguy
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 1:18pm |
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I’d try Napa if there’s 1 close to you. I know they’ll at least look It up for you if it’s not in their computer and usually they have 1 on the shelf. At least the Napa stores around here are like that.
On another note I think it’s great you and your dad are working on this together. May seem like a small thing to you now but this is something you’ll remember the rest of your life. Don’t get frustrated at it not working it’s usually something simple. Good advice on here so far. Check/clean or replace points and condenser and/or change coil. Once you know that’s all good if still not firing work way up to plugs and wires.
My 2 cents worth
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hunter321
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 1:24pm |
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Ok
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Jim.ME
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 1:44pm |
I would not order a coil yet. To me you have not proved the points are working. If the points aren't working it won't make a spark with a new coil either.
With lead on your test light lead grounded and the probe on the coil primary terminal for the wire going to the distributor, crank the engine over. If the points are working, your test light will blink as the points open and close.
Are the contact surfaces of the points clean, smooth, and shiny? Or are they dark (maybe kind of bluish colored), rough, and uneven surfaces?
If I was going to get a 6 volt coil I would go to NAPA or other parts store and get a 6 volt coil. Your picture doesn't tell anyone exactly what the coil is to properly confirm your choice. Giving the brand and part number and the written description would. It may be 6 volt. The writing on it looks like it was intended for use on a 12 volt system using an external resistor, which was often done with 6 volt coils when vehicles were changing for 6 to 12 volts. Not trying to give you a hard time. its just that sometimes little things can make a difference. The more, and better, info you provide when working through things on a forum, where people can not see what you are looking at helps. You are the eyes for the group. You are doing good, keep at it.
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hunter321
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 2:14pm |
so I should clean the points and see if they are opening correctly
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Jim.ME
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 3:57pm |
Yes, you should try cleaning the points and see if they are working properly as the guys have been telling you. The points must be working before you determine you need a coil. The last manual I gave you a link to explains how the points make the coil work to give a spark. Please read through it, so you understand how a distributor ignition system works. The points must be working properly or even a new coil will not work. You may find you need to replace the points, not the coil.
Cheaper is not always the best way to go. You will likely get by with that coil, if you need one. For points and condenser, I recommend Standard brand's "Blue Streak" grade or NAPA Echlin ones. For other ignition parts I use Standard or Echlin.
When you have a problem check the books first, gather advise, diagnose and troubleshoot next, buy parts when you know what parts are bad. People have thrown a lot of money in parts at problems, only to find a broken wire or empty gas tank is all it was. JMHO
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hunter321
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 4:34pm |
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Ok
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hunter321
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 6:13pm |
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I cleaned the points and they are working but the tractor still won't start
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Jim.ME
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 6:43pm |
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Ok, remember I can not see what you did or what you are seeing. Can you explain what you mean by "the points are working"? Did you check using the flashing test light method to see that they are making and breaking as the engine is cranked over? Fill us in, you are our eyes on this.
Put a plug wire in the coil tower and hook a plug to it. Ground the plug to the engine block and crank the engine over. Do you see a spark at the plug electrodes as the engine is cranking? If you remove the plug, slide the plug boot back and expose the clip that slides on the plug, you should be able to hold that clip about 1/4" from the block and the spark should be bluish white and jump that gap. If it does your coil is ok. Be careful if the insulation on the plug site is bad you could get a shock. Best to hold it with insulated handle pliers, if you have them. Let us know how this goes.
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hunter321
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 7:21pm |
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I cleaned the points and there is a spark when the engine turns over but is not creating the compression needed to start the tractor
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Jim.ME
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 7:47pm |
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Ok, sounds like you don't need a coil, you agree?
Compression is made by the mechanical the action of the pistons and valves. Do you have, or can you borrow, a compression test gauge? It is best to actually check compression with a gauge, not guess. A gauge can tell you if there is one of more bad cylinders. After setting 14 years rings or valves could be stuck. There are is a way to get an indication of the problem possibly being rings or valves. So can you get a gauge and do you know how to do a compression test.
Do you know why it was parked 14 years ago?
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 8:18pm |
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you might put a couple ounces of AFT in each cylinder and let it set a couple days... then see if you have more compression... Rings could be stuck from setting.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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hunter321
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Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 9:23pm |
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My grandpa said a seal went bad
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