wiring

hunter, you have run the basic tests.. You have 12 volts INTO the coil and 12 volts OUT of the coil.  If the point is corroded and not closing, you would still have voltage at the coil terminals... Your next step is to clean the point contacts and then touch them together with a screw driver or wire and see if you get a spark... or loose the 12 volts on the coil wire to the point.........

The opening and closing of the points collapses the field inside the coil, producing the secondary high voltage for the spark.  There are some tests that can be done with a test light at the secondary terminal but are not as commonly done.   Did you have power at both primary (small) terminals when tested as I posted?  What were the results at each test location I asked about?

Here is a link to an IH/Farmall FOS (Fundamentals Of Service) manual, on the Farmall Cub website, that I think will help you understand the coil and ignition system better.  Understanding how things work will make the test results more meaningful to you.  The theory and components are common to both IH and AC (and about anything with a point type distributor ignition).  It details several tests you can make besides the ones you have been given so far.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%20Ribbon%20Service%20Manuals/FOS-20%20Chapter%206-Ignition%20Circuits/FOS-20%20Chapter%206-Ignition%20Circuits.htm

Edited by Jim.ME - 03 Feb 2021 at 7:05am

Your test light will work to make those tests.  Let us know what you find.

The two small terminals on the coil are the primary side terminals, the high voltage wire is called the secondary. With the key on and the points open (they must be open) you should have power at the two small terminals on the coil. If you only have power on the switch side (- terminal), try unhooking the primary wire going to the distributor and checking the terminals again. If you have power on both terminals with the wire to the distributor unhooked, the coil is most likely ok. If the terminals both had power look for that primary wire, the condenser wire, or the straps on the points being grounded out. If the points aren't opening it could be a problem as well. What are you using to test for power? Voltmeter, 6 volt test light, or something else?

Edited by Jim.ME - 01 Feb 2021 at 7:39pm

I dont think I have power coming from the coil

No spark? Might try cleaning points and or check/set point gap. 

I have power the coil and every thing but when I checked if I had spark I still dont

Edited by hunter321 - 01 Feb 2021 at 10:57am

Could the sparkplug wires and the wire from the distributor to the coil be bad

The switch is new I am getting a new ammeter and me and my dad are going to see if I have power to the coil or not

yea, that looks pretty good.. While you were posting, i took the ORIGINAL drawing at the top of the page, put the coil and distributor in, and highlighted the HOT wire ( negative), from the battery, to the starter, to the amp meter, to the on- off switch, to the coil to the distributor......... i think that is what you have shown..

Edited by steve(ill) - 12 Jan 2021 at 12:03pm

all you need is a hot wire going to the COIL from the battery ( negative if that is your HOT).... then a wire from the coil (+) to the distributor point..... those two wires will give your distributor point power... if it starts and you want to stop, just pull the little wire off the battery. ( or on  - off switch).

ill try that

Sitting that long, it probably just needs some Brakekleen on a rag run through the points. It'll probably fire right up! 

A WD-45 with a magneto ???

the drawing show ONE WIRE going to the magnito from a KILL SWITCH.. Just to be safe, take that wire OFF THE TERMINAL to make sure it is not GROUNDED ( = no spark)

Edited by steve(ill) - 11 Jan 2021 at 8:10pm