This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity. | ||||||
The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
Winter shop project. |
Post Reply |
Author | |
soggybottomboy
Silver Level Access Joined: 20 Feb 2018 Location: Iowa Points: 201 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: 27 Dec 2022 at 12:29am |
Well, I thought I needed one to keep me busy this winter. Our combine won't fit in the shop because the door is not wide enough so I can't work on it in cold weather. So I bought an Allis 7000 tractor at Ed's Machinery Sale in Memphis Missouri about 2 and a half weeks ago. It needed engine work, and I think I saved it from the scrap yard. Been tearing it down. The first thing I noticed was that the radiator fan had been put on backwards. The radiator itself has had so much pressure in it that the tank on top has been expanded. Guessing it's been greatly overheated. Two injectors had the tips blown off. Those 2 pistons were buggered up pretty bad on top. I suppose the tips went through the turbo, but I haven't looked at it yet. I have the sleeves and pistons removed and on #6 the top O ring had turned to charcoal in one spot. Where the O ring sits, the block is pitted at the spot where the ring was burned. I need to fix that somehow. Will a metal epoxy of some kind fix it? Is there a long term fix?
|
|
Sponsored Links | |
Clay
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Udall, Kansas Points: 9234 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The pitting in the block is very fixable with the right epoxy.
Around 30 years ago, my dad and I repaired our 180 diesel with Belzona Super Metal (1111). I consider this to be a long-term proven repair. This repair was not difficult. Remove cylinder liners. Thoroughly clean the lower bore. Make absolutely sure to remove ALL TRACES of antifreeze. Sweat the surface with a torch, to remove oil from the metal. Degrease with MEK or Acetone. Roughen the surface with a coarse stone (the rougher the surface, the better). Apply Belzona Release agent to the surfaces of the liner. Mix up a small amount of Super Metal (3:1 by volume) to a streak free consistency. Fill the O-ring grooves. Once cured, sand the Super Metal smooth to the surface of the liner. [Any low spots will make removal of the sleeve difficult.] Recoat the liner with Release Agent. Mix up more Super Metal and apply to the lower portion of the liner and to the lower bore of the block. Insert the liner into the block and drive it down into position. Remove Excess Super Metal. Be careful to not move the liner. The cure time will depend on the temperature of the engine metal. Remove the liner. Use a center punch to break the Super Metal from the O-ring grooves. Remove the Super Metal from the grooves. It is necessary to use a stone or file to remove any sharp edges from the top of the lower bore. This will help avoid nicking the new O-rings. Inspect the liner for any trace of Super Metal. Place the new O-rings onto the liner. Lubricate the O-ring and insert the liner into the block. This is an excellent repair. We have had no problems with the liners leaking. Still using this tractor. I buy my Belzona from Mike Bruce at: Industrial Repair Technology, Inc. 1035-D NE Jib Court Lee's Summit MO 64064 Phone: (816) 795-1106 Fax: (816) 795-0211 mbruce@belzonairt.com Edited by Clay - 27 Dec 2022 at 3:38am |
|
DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20191 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
If you are doing this as an "in-frame" overhaul, be sure to tape the crankshafts connecting rod journals to keep dirt out of the oil holes. Your cylinder head is no good as it is after being hot. The injector copper sleeves will surely be leaking from being overheated. Have the head reconditioned at a minimum.
Edited by DrAllis - 27 Dec 2022 at 6:16am |
|
MACK
Orange Level Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Best repair is to bore bottom of block, and install a repair sleeve. MACK
|
|
soggybottomboy
Silver Level Access Joined: 20 Feb 2018 Location: Iowa Points: 201 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thank You for the responses. I did get in touch with the Belzona people, and that looks like an amazing product. Not cheap, but good.
I currently have the engine out of the frame and sitting on blocks on the floor. I wanted to check everything and that seemed like the easiest way to do it in the long run. I took the head to the local machine shop as soon as i got it off. That guy has a 5 week waiting list, but supposedly he can do all the checks that need to be done. I found out today that there is a shop not to far away that can bore the block and put in the inserts. I had not heard of that before, or if I did, I forgot. That happens way to often anymore too. I will contact this shop tomorrow to find out about cost and timing. Then maybe I can make an informed decision as to which way to go. Thanks Guys, what a wealth of knowledge there is on this site, as well as a willingness to share it. There are many of us who appreciate it.
|
|
Dennis J OPKs
Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Overland Park, Points: 419 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Belzona is good stuff. I've seen it used on a JD 720 Diesel where the flywheel had loosened from the crankshaft and couldn't be securely fitted back together. Belzona was used to fill the void and it worked. Care is required & follow instructions.
|
|
soggybottomboy
Silver Level Access Joined: 20 Feb 2018 Location: Iowa Points: 201 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Stopped in at the machine shop today to talk about boring the block from the 7000. the guy told me that it takes him a lot of time to do it because he doesn't have the tooling he needs that would make the job go faster. Said he could do it though but it will cost me $2000. I asked him about just doing one cylinder, and he said he could do that, but he has a waiting period of 4 weeks just for one cylinder. I called midwest cylinder head and machine in Nevada, Iowa. They would do it for $1000, but their waiting list is 8 weeks. Probably because of all the John Deeres they have to work on. At least they have job security. Looks like it's going to be Belzona.
|
|
jaybmiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 22269 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Dang nab it...after reading the 7000 story, I'm thinking it'd have been easier to just widen the door and git the combine inside.....
|
|
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |