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which stick weld rod,,,,?

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desertjoe View Drop Down
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    Posted: 15 Sep 2019 at 1:37pm

 Well,, the local weldin supply has stopped carrying the 1/8" 6013 Lincoln and the Hobart stick  weld rod I been using forever and now carries a Radnor brand, so I got a 1# tube to try it out and did not like it too good,, And my old lincoln 250 cracker box didn't want to run it too smooth.,,guess I was used to the Hobart rod.  TSC carries the Hobart rod but is just bout twice the price of what I was payin at the weld supply,,!chit fire,,I told the dude there I was gonna talk with Ms Big ones and,,,and,,he tells me she got transferred to a store in Omaha,,,ain't that a beach,,,,,,,!!!!! AND,,I ain't gonna pay what TSC wants for the same rod I had been payin at half the price at the weld supply,,,
 I looked on the Internet and see some Forney weld rod and some Hobart for some dang good prices. Does anybody use or got anything to say bout the Forney rod,,?? Or some other good brand of stick rod,,,??? I really like the Hobart rod because of it's quality and smooth running and welding is something I do NOT not  short cut on,,,Clap
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Mactractor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mactractor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep 2019 at 2:56pm
Faced the same problem here with 7016 rods Joe. Welding supply shop man said they replaced the 'top name' brands with a Korean made brand. My thought was what the hell use will they be. He said take some and try them, you wont have any problems with them because all my professional welder customers don't. He was right. They are an excellent rod. I was wondering if brands like Lincoln have been made in Asia for down here for a while anyway.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep 2019 at 3:53pm
7018AC, brand name is the ONLY rod I use with my Lincoln AC-225-S welder for the past 30 yeras. tried others but prefer the 7018AC... AC means GREAT for AC welders....
With 3/32 rods I can weld thin rider decks, 1/8 welds everything else.
I usually get Hobart...shop at same store all the time....
 1/2 priced rods will cause you 2X the grief ! Buy a QUALITY rod, stick with it ! ( no pun intended )
Jay
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep 2019 at 4:11pm
6013 is a mild steel somewhat general purpose rod but not a great choice. I too use 7018, get them from the steel supply house I buy my bulk materials from, not been unhappy and cannot find the name on the rods.
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Dick L View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep 2019 at 5:23pm
I only use 7018 on all fab steel. High tinsel low hydrogen. It is a bit stick lighting it on fire until you get the hang of it. I use it on P20 mold base steel also as a filler. I tig mold cavities when needed with the appropriate rod.     
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep 2019 at 6:01pm
I use 7018 same as Dick... but I bet he is using a DC welder as I am...That is the only rod to use with DC welding... I have not tried the 7018AC as I have not used an AC welder in over 30 years... I have bought off brand 7018 rod on e-bay for a test, and I have had great luck.  Most 7018 rod has a "manufacturing spec" and has to meet very strict criterial as that rod is used by Boiler Maker / Pipe fitter ( Union welders) at  Power Plants and Oil fields.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep 2019 at 7:00pm

  Well,,I know they use a chitload of the Low-Hi weld rod,,,in construction and pipelines as well as refineries ,,,but I never tried to use it cause I was always told it is used primarily in DC machines and mine is an AC arc welder.
 I guess I'm just gonna order some Hobart 6013 online,,heck I can get it here lots cheaper than buying at TSC,,,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thad in AR. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep 2019 at 7:31pm
I used to buy rod at NAPA and had good luck.
I like the Hobart 7018AC with my Lincoln cracker box but my Miller Aead AC engine driven doesn’t like it at all.

Edited by Thad in AR. - 15 Sep 2019 at 7:32pm
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desertjoe View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep 2019 at 11:17pm

 Hey Thad,,,so you CAN use 7018 with an AC machine,,?? HMMmm,,I was always under the impression that 7018 was made for the DC machines,,,,is why I never tried to run the 7018 and instead been running the 6011 and recently the 6013 which I was told are primarily for the AC machines which mine is,,,,,Chit,,I'm all fu'ed up now,,,LOLLOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shameless dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2019 at 1:09am
learn wire?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2019 at 2:37am

 Chit Shameless,,,,I HAVE learnt wire weldin and is my preferred method of stickin things together,,,but for the Heavy Duty important things such as structural  trailer weldin, I'll go with the trusty arc welder,,and,,,,and,,,I can lay you the prettiest stack of dimes you ever seen,,,,,,Clap,,,and guaranteed to NOT break,,!!, Chit thet OLD arc welder is older that you and ole Les put together and weights more than you both too,,,,LOL
 By the way and since you asked,,,,,Wink,,,I finally chit canned the CH mig I been tryin to make work for me and bought me a Lincoln 175 220 volt mig that is the sweetest thing you ever seen,,,,,,,and,,,,and,,,it will lay down a string of dimes all day long,,frying bacon alla the time,,,,,yeeppi,,,,!!Clap
 UMmmmm,,you wanna buy a good mig welder,,???Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thad in AR. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2019 at 4:56am
Joe it has to be 7018 AC and some welders (my Miller AEA non AC) don’t like it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2019 at 5:41am
7018AC  ONLY rod to use !! 6013 is NO good on AC ! sputters and makes a mess... I've got 25# of it here, minus 4 rods you can HAVE... also smells like smouldering/burning overalls...
you NEED an AC rated rod for an AC only machine.....
7018AC works great on new steel, old steel, thick or thin...
3/32 and 40amps for rider decks, 1/8 and 105 amps for the rest....
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2019 at 7:08am
Originally posted by desertjoe desertjoe wrote:


  Well,,I know they use a chitload of the Low-Hi weld rod,,,in construction and pipelines as well as refineries ,,,but I never tried to use it cause I was always told it is used primarily in DC machines and mine is an AC arc welder.
 I guess I'm just gonna order some Hobart 6013 online,,heck I can get it here lots cheaper than buying at TSC,,,


I have always used the same rod on my old Lincoln buzz box as I do with the Miller DC welder. They do have a 7018 AC rod but I am way to cheap to have both. After two days I probly couldn't tell the difference anyway. If your a kin to, it will make you use some non church like words lighting the fire at first. The weld will work look the same on both machines. If I was you I would most likely stick with what I have used the most also.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2019 at 8:49am


Different rods for different materials and applications...
He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2019 at 9:09am

 OK,,,OK,,,!!!,,,OK,,JC,,,just for you,,Ima gonna go me,,,,mind you,,, a small helpin of the 7018 rod to try on my AC Buzz box and see if there's any troot in it runnin in a AC buzz box,,,,,,,,,cause,,,,cause,,,I don't wanna be called a,,,,a,,,,,"girlfriend",,,,,, Wink

By the way,,,THANK YOU Dick L,,,,,!!!!LOLLOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2019 at 9:20am
7018AC    not 7018   
there is a BIG difference in striking it and layin down....
SAME strength though, 70,000    (th 70 in 7018AC )

member you need AC rods for Allis Chalmers.....
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2019 at 9:36am
What's 7014 good for?  Nothin'?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2019 at 6:02pm
7014 is smooth ,easy and fast...  Wink
      ... with 70,000 pound tensile.  LOL


He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2019 at 9:44pm
So, out of curiosity, what does everybody do to keep that 7018 dry, we have a rod oven at the shop, but I'm too cheap too keep one going at home for the once in a great while that I'm going to stick weld something. Once it picks up moisture, the low hydrogen properties go out the window. 7014 has been my go to for years for clean steel, better penetration and deposition rates than 7018 and does fine sitting on a shelf in an open box. For dirty work 6010 does the trick, these two are about all I keep around home anymore.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shameless dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2019 at 10:39pm
I use an old refridgerator for stuff I don't want moisture getting to
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron(AB) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 12:16am
A shop with floor heat keeps my rods dry.   Even thru cold Canadian winter and 18-19" of rain in the summer.

If you take the rods outside for welding... a little portable oven is good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 3:38am

 Hey JC,,many THANKS for postin thet chart,,,It has made me aware of some things I shoulda known when weldin for strengh. I always have V'd out the thicker stuff for the most penetration and I have noticed that since I started usin 6013 on some thick stuff,,,it sometimes does not want to penetrate as much as I like. The chart says I shoulda been usin 6010 or 6011 which I used to use,,,and I'll be danged if I can remember why I started usin 6013 as the chart says 6010 or 6011 were better choices,,,Now I know,,,,Clap
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 6:44am
Originally posted by JC(WI) JC(WI) wrote:

7014 is smooth ,easy and fast...  Wink
      ... with 70,000 pound tensile.  LOL


Hmmm......it IS smooth easy and fast.  I lay down a beautiful stack o' dimes with that stuff........That I can then break in two with my bare hands, practically NO penetration.  Must be my amps aren't high enough?
 
It's just weird, I can grab the 6011 and get stuff to hold together strong, just looks like crap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mactractor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 9:07am
The very trouble with many wire welds Tbone. Look great, but no penetration.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 9:20am
Originally posted by Mactractor Mactractor wrote:

The very trouble with many wire welds Tbone. Look great, but no penetration.

Yep, seen that too, on the trampoline we had for the kids a few years ago.  Why is that one leg leaning??  Hmmm......the most beautiful looking weld......missed the joint by ~1/8 inch!Angry
 
To be clear, I don't have a wire welder.  Have an old Miller M-180 my dad bought years ago.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 9:25am

 Hey TBone,,I'm likin ole JC's chart as it makes you think bout what you been using and what you maybe should try. For the structural stuff I usually weld,,I want the best penetration with the dimes to be a close second. I remember tryin some 6010 and my old buzz box just would not run it for chit and the dude at weldin supply told me I should use 6011 instead. I used 6011 for some years and cannot remember WHY I changed to 6013. My machine does weld great with the 6013 altho,,I had noticed the penetration was not always the best even with V'in out so I kept cranking up the heat til it would but most generally would get a lot of burn-thru,,, I just finished up a 20' X 24' shader and sure did have to work harder to make sure penetration was up to snuff. Thinkin I'm gonna order  a small tube of the Hobart 6011 and do a comparison to the 6013 on some left over stuff,,,,,,,

Did you ever look into "higher heat" with the 6014 and compare penetration AND strength,,??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 10:50am
Joe, in a way, I wish I knew more, and more accurately wish I had the time to practice more (in some ways!), but total truth be known, I sure ain't no welder.  I tried messing with the heat back when I was messing with the 7014, seems all I did was burn through.  I sure remember that stuff starting nice.  My old Miller sure is nothing fancy, and my rod is OLD as well.  Sigh.....I'm trying to stick 2 pieces of farm junk together most of the time, I wouldn't dream of sending my welds down the highway on a trailer of something, not at this point of my skill. (lack thereof)  It's a lot like golf.  I know what I'm supposed to do, just not up to par!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 11:08am
DJ, Tbone, the way I have thought it, the differences in polarities are like this,
 DC straight polarity is just surface welding... the flow of electrons are coming from the base metal and coming up to meet your rod metal so it lays it on the surface puts the heat at the electrode tip...
 AC weld is the flow of electrons running both ways and burning both base metals and electrode metals and thus 'meeting half way and puts the heat there in what your welding a little bit deeper....
 And DC Reverse polarity are the electrons getting sucked into the base metals and pulling the heat and the electrode metal down into it deeper.
  Having said that, I leave my welders in DC reverse unless  I am putting on a coating of hard facing/surfacing and then its straight polarity. Can't remember when I used AC the last time.
He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 11:13am
Hmmm.....
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