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DMiller 
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Hermann, Mo
Points: 33980
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 Topic: Wheel replacement prices
Posted: 03 Sep 2020 at 6:40pm |
W T H????? I am working to get pieces and parts for another project, been looking to buy wheels for a Semi Tractor, as typical my old 99 SD Ford F250 the Aluminum wheels have corrupted and leak thruwall worse than a tire full of thorns, 5-10# loss in a WEEK, tanks the tires NO leaks on the rubber, tiny seeping leaks on the rim.
So I price BOTH the Semi and my Ford, dammed if I cannot buy the Semi wheels nearly AS CHEAP or CHEAPER than the Pickup wheels. And I am talking 24.5 Alcoa Accuride Aluminum repolished for $1100 for Four or NEW Steel 24.5s for $132 EA, as opposed to $195 EA INCLUDING a Core Credit for Reman Aluminum 16s for the Ford or OEM 'Style' aftermarket Steel wheels for $90 EA.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 87853
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Posted: 03 Sep 2020 at 6:54pm |
I have had several aluminum rims that corrode around the LIP after 15 years and will "leak" air out around the bead... I take the tire off and wire brush the bead, then sand with sandpaper to clean up and reinstall... Several times i have WIPED a thin layer of grease on the bead... it lets them seat ( instead of soap), but also will fill in any small scratch / pit for a good seal...
Have also heard of guys cleaning the inside of rims and recoating with clear sealer to fill in any "pin holes" in the aluminum... but i have never had that problem.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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DMiller
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Hermann, Mo
Points: 33980
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Posted: 03 Sep 2020 at 7:00pm |
The Factory Ford rims in the Early SD line seem to be really bad for this, Mine actually show bubbles after a few tens of minutes building up well onto the rim area as the sealant Ford or the manufacturer used has eroded/aged away. They can take the wheels, dip them to remove ALL the sealant, polish then reseal them but at a price close to $200 EACH with a core to exchange. Aftermarket what I consider Trash Wheels are close to $300 EACH and are worthless for load rating.
I need to replace the ones I have just to sell the pickup, or tell whomever is their baby and that the OEMs do leak. Some do not care. Just aggravating I can buy 24.5s Cheaper than 16s.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 03 Sep 2020 at 7:10pm |
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How about wire brushing the inside of the rim, then brushing on a coat of enamel paint, then reinstall the tire ?? Test one... got nothing to loose !!
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
Points: 54118
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Posted: 03 Sep 2020 at 8:54pm |
 steve(ill) wrote:
How about wire brushing the inside of the rim, then brushing on a coat of enamel paint, then reinstall the tire ?? Test one... got nothing to loose !! |
I'd go with a cleaning, then a coat of etching primer, then the enamel... 
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Prairie City Ia
Points: 10508
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Posted: 03 Sep 2020 at 9:45pm |
DMiller wrote:
The Factory Ford rims in the Early SD line seem to be really bad for this, Mine actually show bubbles after a few tens of minutes building up well onto the rim area as the sealant Ford or the manufacturer used has eroded/aged away. They can take the wheels, dip them to remove ALL the sealant, polish then reseal them but at a price close to $200 EACH with a core to exchange. Aftermarket what I consider Trash Wheels are close to $300 EACH and are worthless for load rating.
I need to replace the ones I have just to sell the pickup, or tell whomever is their baby and that the OEMs do leak. Some do not care. Just aggravating I can buy 24.5s Cheaper than 16s. |
I hear you on that one. Years ago when I worked at a Goodyear tire store they used a product called Frey Lube. It was intended for use on heavy trucks, but they started using it on all alloy wheels. We'd brush the heavy corrosion off the beads then put a layer of Frey Lube on the bead of the wheel and tire. Whatever was in that stuff it stopped the corrosion dead and no more bead leaks.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 24693
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Posted: 04 Sep 2020 at 6:02am |
the pricing shows the GREAT profit in selling pickup rims..
whenever I do riding mower tire work.....I spray a layer of 'fan belt grip' material. Sorry, having a seniors' moment, can't think of the name of the stuff. You spray it on Vbelts for better traction. Super goopy, black.I've never had a bead leak after using it AND the tire never moves around the rim.....
I'd actually trade the Al rims on my '97 F150 for a good set of STEEL rims.....tired of the leaks...
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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DMiller
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Hermann, Mo
Points: 33980
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Posted: 04 Sep 2020 at 7:08am |
The old truck is barely worth anything these days. 340,000 miles, do not use it all that much except on farm but do keep inspection repairs up. Body is corrupting away from inside out where the two extended cab doors are now wedged in place as the cab settled.
Has a 7.3, 4x4 and useless off road in soft stuff, have a tractor for that work. Became a tool hauler for fence work and a parts runner for other work so is on its last road trips to the salvage lot anyway.
Mainly just a rant as to how pricing falls, guess are more pickups needing wheels than big rigs. My next project begins arriving in parts and pieces as of Sunday where for the winter will be resurrecting a 1963 Autocar DC87 single axle truck. Changing over from Minnesota Mags(Dayton Cast Spoke) 12.00x22 to Disc 11.00Rx24.5 wheels and upgrading some of the running gear in the process. 290 Small Cam Cummins on a fresh overhaul never been restarted, 5x4 trans set up, 4.11 ratio Eaton rear end going in and the obsolete White rear end coming out. Getting Air Ride rear suspension off a Freightliner then upgrading nearly every aspect of the old beater to something I can enjoy.
Cannot help but beat on myself, was a mechanic for ALL too many years and hard to quit cold turkey. The end result is to be a Fifth Wheel Tractor, still Single axle, not expressly Fast nor Pretty nor really up to date but effective. To eventually become a Fifth Wheel RV Toter until I see greener pastures.
A 'Newer' Toter would be really sweet, medium duty chassis with a smaller engine, maybe 2-3 more mpg and Auto Trans where the wife could drive it too but this will do financially more effective. Trading for the machine out of my old machines and oft NOT used equipment where I am slowly Downsizing and reducing inventories of 'Stuff'.
Edited by DMiller - 04 Sep 2020 at 7:09am
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