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Jordan(OH) 
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Location: Celina, OH
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 Topic: What to do with cracked 426?
Posted: 18 Dec 2009 at 10:29am |
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mlpankey
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Location: Vols country
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Posted: 18 Dec 2009 at 10:36am |
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Eric[IL]
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Posted: 18 Dec 2009 at 10:41am |
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mlpankey
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Posted: 18 Dec 2009 at 10:54am |
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if weld it you need to use a ni rod . arod that has a high nickle content.
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BrianC,Ont
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Posted: 18 Dec 2009 at 12:04pm |
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michaelwis
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Posted: 18 Dec 2009 at 12:38pm |
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GOOD LUCK !!!
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 18 Dec 2009 at 4:00pm |
Like Brian C says welding cast iron is an art form. It takes nickel rod to do it. Knowing how much to heat it, weld it, and cool it down takes skill. Midwest Cylinder Head in Colo Ia has someone who knows how to weld cast.
How bad does it leak? When I rebuilt my Oliver 60 engine I noticed an expanded spot on the side of the block. It never leaked so I figured it was a casting flaw. It's a crack. It seeped a little after running all day on a tractor ride. I put some GM seal tabs in the radiator and haven't seen any seepage since. Not the most correct way, but it worked for me. Might take a few more than the Oliver, but if it keeps it a workable machine until you trade it/overhaul it, at least you still have the use of it.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Gerald J.
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Posted: 18 Dec 2009 at 4:31pm |
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 18 Dec 2009 at 7:20pm |
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I stand corrected. I knew they were up that way.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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DreaminGA
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Posted: 18 Dec 2009 at 7:29pm |
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With that many hours on it, and never been apart, i'd use the Belzona. Make sure you use a grinder or Dremel tool to clean and vee the cracks, so the Belzona has enough surface area to bond with. If the engine still runs right, and isn't getting water in the oil, or on top of a piston, you may get many years out of it with no more problems. My C has several cracks on the manifold side, spanning nearly the entire length of the block. Someone ground it out and filled in with JB weld before I got it. Hasn't leaked yet, and i've run the crap out of it, loaded hard.
Edited by DreaminGA - 18 Dec 2009 at 7:30pm
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It wasn't me! It was a short, fat, tall, skinny guy that looked like me!
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DaveCinIN
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Posted: 18 Dec 2009 at 8:10pm |
You can grind a groove where the crack is then weld it with bronze rod and an acetylene torch. Same as brazing only with a higher temperature. Thus the term welding. I get bronze rod at TSC if I only need a small amount.
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Nathan (SD)
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Posted: 19 Dec 2009 at 10:36am |
If the cracks are not leaking, leave it alone. That means it is stressed but not broke. An attempted fix can cause more problems than you got.
Now. Why did it need pure water added to dilute the anti-freeze mix? Just curious.
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Jordan(OH)
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Posted: 19 Dec 2009 at 9:38pm |
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Cracks are leaking. It was loosing 2-3 gal. in 5-6 hrs. of chiseling, plugged it in when it got cold but apparently the block heater quit. Dont know where it was all leaking.
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Hurst
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Posted: 19 Dec 2009 at 10:48pm |
Undo the oil plug a little and see if you have water in the oil. To me, that would be a big factor of whether I would try to repair the block or not.
Hurst
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1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours
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Jack(Ky)
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Posted: 20 Dec 2009 at 4:25am |
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Someone spoke of Belzona, we have used it at the machine shop where I work a few times to repairs shafts that we couldn't weld on. It is a very good product.JP
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cotncrzy
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Posted: 20 Dec 2009 at 9:00am |
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C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM!
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BrianC,Ont
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Posted: 20 Dec 2009 at 10:35am |
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jls
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Posted: 20 Dec 2009 at 10:55am |
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50/50 mix has a lower freezing point than straight ethelene glycol, doesn't the back of the antifreeze jug have a chart anymore?
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BrianC,Ont
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Posted: 20 Dec 2009 at 11:00am |
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jls; Yes it does, but you are not supposed to run straight anti freeze. 50/50 mix works for any temps around here. I think maybe they mix it 70/30 up in the Yukon and Alaska.
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mlpankey
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Posted: 20 Dec 2009 at 11:38am |
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50/50 -30f 70/30 -60f 80/20 -50f 90/10-20f 100% 10f ethylene glycol freezing points.
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Gary(WI)
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Posted: 20 Dec 2009 at 11:47am |
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I have several 426 blocks for sale it would just as cheap and easy to replace the block if interested give me a call or email $550 would have block cleaned and crack checked for the same money Gary Roidt 920 253 8192
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Amos
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Posted: 20 Dec 2009 at 12:30pm |
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I have welded more than one block. I have had to weld the first one a second time (didn't get all the crack the first time). If you are looking for a D15 diesel block you may want to take a chance on welding one up. But a 426 is different, especially when you can buy one that is already checked out for a reasonable price. You are only out your labor and maybe gaskets as opposed to welding and how much would some one charge for welding a block and guaranteeing it??????
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 20 Dec 2009 at 12:48pm |
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 20 Dec 2009 at 1:28pm |
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Dave A
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Posted: 20 Dec 2009 at 2:36pm |
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My father sells belzona we have fixed many engine blocks. The important this is to stop the crack by find the ends and drilling them( use a dye penetrant). Next drill and tap 1/4 bolt threads every 1/2 " to 3/4". Notch your bolts so they break off in the block. The tension it creates in the crack is important. "V" the crack out just a little. Clean the block with the belzona cleaner and heat. Then fill in the crack with Belzona. Mix like it tells you to. One part of the mixure one way or the other makes a big difference.
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Play the game for more than you can afford to lose... only then will you learn the game.
Winston Churchill
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Dave A
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Posted: 20 Dec 2009 at 2:38pm |
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If you weld it with a Nirod. still find the crack ends and drill and tap the block along the crack. And make sure it is clean.
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Play the game for more than you can afford to lose... only then will you learn the game.
Winston Churchill
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Rawleigh
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Posted: 21 Dec 2009 at 11:40am |
Check out this process and read their information about welding cast iron as well. It works well. http://www.locknstitch.com/
Edited by Rawleigh - 21 Dec 2009 at 11:40am
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phlynt
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Posted: 12 Mar 2010 at 1:03pm |
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I have an allis chalmers 426 Ci that is in an N5 combine I stiopped using. The engine has 3200 hours on it and runs good. If your interested give me a call. The last ime I started it was lst summer when I drove into the corner of the shed. I have been taking parts opff the combine to fix a few thing on my new N5 that I plan to sell when I get everything fixed on it. Flint Grahl 920-251-6510.
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TramwayGuy
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Posted: 12 Mar 2010 at 5:01pm |
Antifreeze should be run year-around.....it also raises the boiling point.
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DonBC
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Posted: 12 Mar 2010 at 5:23pm |
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Anti freeze also has rust inhibitors. Even a weak mixture of anti freeze will not break blocks or do other damage because it remains slushy enough to flow to relieve pressure when crystallization begins as it freezes. You run into problems after you start the engine because the slush does not want to flow through the rad and the engine soon overheats and boils over. Been there, done that
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Jack of all trades, master of none
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