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Zyta 
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Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: Ontario
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 Topic: WD-65 3 Point Conversion
Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 4:14pm |
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Zyta
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Location: Ontario
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Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 4:15pm |
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Calvin Schmidt
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario Can.
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Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 4:17pm |
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Calling it a WD-65 is going to give away your secret! I waiting to see the multi carb setup.
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Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed
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Zyta
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Location: Ontario
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Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 4:18pm |
Just have to figure out how I am going to attach the 3 point arms under the rear above the axle. Anyone out there have any photo's or examples they could share on how to finish that part off? examples would be appreciated!
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Zyta
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Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 4:21pm |
Hi Calvin, yes we will be working on that once we get everything back together. Things have been very busy so the project got delayed. Good hearing from you!
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 4:32pm |
One suggestion; instead of bolting the lift links to the sides of your lift arms, you might want to consider a clevis type setup. It looks like it would be fairly easy since the "blocks" on the links appear to be about the same thickness as the lift arms.
The prior owner of my D-17 built a 3PH and he hooked to one side of the lift arms and one of them is bent from the uneven pull.
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corlewfarms
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Joined: 05 Feb 2010
Location: tennessee
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Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 4:52pm |
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put a bracket on the drawbar between hanger and bell so the traction booster works
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Tony.Or
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Location: Oregon
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Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 5:04pm |
Build a cross piece to mount on top of drawbar, that way the TB system can come into play.
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John (MO)
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Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 7:51pm |
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I agree you need to use a clevis on the lift arms to keep from twisting then, and you have to attach the three point arms to the draw bar or the traction boost is useless. The draw bar hanger can't be used as an attach point either because it won't allow the traction boost to work, only the drawbar or going directly in the snap coupler bell will work.
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DSpears N IL
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Location: Rockford,Ill
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Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 8:42pm |
This is how I fabricated the 3 point conversion for my CA with the snapcoupler drawbar.
I mounted to the under side brackets that was used to quickchange the drawbar to the underside of the tractor. This may give you a thought to build something similar for your application.
DeWayne
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Zyta
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Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 10:00pm |
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Thanks for the good information guys!
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JC-WI
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Posted: 14 Jan 2011 at 9:55am |
Here is my thought, find the three point lift system off of a 180, 170, late D17 or 15 and adapt the hangers to the tractor and then use the lower parts and torsion tube and make new linkage to the traction booster linkage.
To adapt the lower peices to tractor, I could see a heavy plate coming from under the bail hangers using 2 bolts welded to a plate coming down from under the axels using 4 bolts that bolt into housing and then weld a third plate verticle (maybe want this plate to extend from left side to the right side all welded together) to the other two plates of steel to bolt the support/torsion assembly from 180/170/D17/D15 to it.
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Zyta
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Posted: 17 Jan 2011 at 9:59am |
I like that idea! anyone out there have a nice picture or two of the 3point set up on a late D17, D15, or 170, 180. to show this set up so I can fabricate the same?
Thanks for the feed back. the three point system is actual from a David Brown tractor which is excellent to use.
Jim
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JC-WI
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Posted: 17 Jan 2011 at 11:47am |
I looked at the hydraulics on WD and the cylinders are in the way for a bracket to come down from axel housing.
Made very rough sketch of what might work.
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JohnThomas
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Posted: 17 Jan 2011 at 12:16pm |
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Holy Cow JC..that handwriting is a dead ringer for my Late Dad's! Even the numbers....
Ran a chill up my spine looking at it!
The sketch too!
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Life is short...Make haste to be kind
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Zyta
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Posted: 17 Jan 2011 at 2:08pm |
Hi JC, so looking at your drawing the two bottom arm linkages would attach to the bottom of that plate directly below the lift arm attachments? You don't think its needs to be further back under the rear of the tractor? I guess this is how it's designed on a 170
or 180. This design would definitely give it a strong top link.
Jim
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JC-WI
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Location: wisconsin
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Posted: 18 Jan 2011 at 12:10am |
John Thomas, Sorry about giving you the chills... Just step outside here and you get chills too. Single digit highs for several days coming,with possibles of -20 or colder.
Zyta, thats the idea keep it strong. After looking at pics below, I forgot how much farther rearward the third member attachment is on the tractor.. Isn't in straight line with lower attachments but set back apout 6 or 8 inches. But that can be designed right into the plate easily.
Had thought about pto in upper left drawing but forgot about it in lower right corner quick sketch. Fellow could design the plate to hold a sealed bearing there, not needing the origional hanger.
To bad a fellow could not have just bolted the whole assembly from a D15 or D17 directly onto the WD rear end , even if you had to have an adaptor plate. I scanned a few pics from some brochures. Three of them from a series four and one is from ONE-SEVENTY.
Can't see attachment of three point brackets real well. 
Plow of snap coupler
Three point on 170
Now this is a traction booster hitch on Series IV, shows brackets for bail hitch.  Had an old WD that I had wanted to do something like this to and set it up like the 190. Started collecting stuff for it, fenders from 190, MM vista1000 50 gal. fuel tank, Steel for platform, hydraulic controls, seat...adjustable steering wheel and collumn from an olds Delta deepset. Never had time to start putting it together, Cept for putting a 230 Buda into it and found first gear was way to fast and along with the reg speed pto. Was hard green chopping with it so pulled the pin and put the 17 on and went to work.
On my snap coupler 190 gas, I am going to weld some brackets to accommadate 3 point arms and attach the lifting links right behind the lift latches. That way I can put the bale fork on it and move bales... Don't need sensing controls for that job.And when the fork comes off, Just remove the arms and don't have them swinging away making noise.
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