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Farmall M Beginner 
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Joined: 29 Mar 2010
Location: KS
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 Topic: WD45 Won't Start NEED HELP!!!!
Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 7:02pm |
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My Allis Chalmers WD45 won't start. I just got this tractor a couple days ago and I have been having trouble with the bowl under the gas tank plugging, I now got that fixed but now it won't start? it was running fine today then it died then nothing? it is getting gas to the carburetor, it has spark and suction.
Does any one have any idea?
Thanks,
Coyote
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kip in cny
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Joined: 29 Nov 2009
Location: Jordan NY
Points: 538
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Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 7:10pm |
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sounds like you have junk in the carb. take it off and clean it
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160 CA 920diesel 5020 HD-3
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Farmall M Beginner
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Joined: 29 Mar 2010
Location: KS
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Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 7:12pm |
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The Carb has been cleaned and still nothing,
Thanks,
Coyote
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maurice
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Joined: 07 Mar 2010
Location: Franklin, IN
Points: 58
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Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 8:15pm |
I'm not an expert, but I've been having trouble starting my WD's for 20 years.
Is the battery well charged? That has caused me spark problems. It will crank but won't have enough additional to spark.
Clean the carb again, and again, and clean the glass bowl, and the gas tube, and then when you least suspect it, a piece of junk will float over and cover the gas outlet inside the gas tank.
Where are you checking the spark? At the plug? Pull the plug and see if it is clean? Leave the spark wire on and hold the plug to metal?
Don't ever keep the WD outside. Rain WILL get into the 2nd and/or 3rd cylinder and will have a bad time getting it to start. Putting a bucket over the exhaust won't keep out the rain.
Is the oil bath air cleaner clean? Of course you could leave the connecting hose off for testing.
That's all I can think of at the moment. Most of the time it starts and runs good, my wife does all the mowing with it.
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Jackson, WI
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Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 8:30pm |
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Take and spray some carb cleaner or wd40 in it while cranking and see if it pops or wants to run. If that's the case, then you know it is fuel related and the carb needs addressing. I have one tractor that I have been getting junk into the carb and I have cleaned it about 10 times now. Yesterday, I put an inline fuel filter between the sediment bowl and the carb, and I still don't have it cleaned 100% as it runs but not right yet.
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maurice
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Joined: 07 Mar 2010
Location: Franklin, IN
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Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 8:49pm |
 ChuckLuedtkeSEWI wrote:
Take and spray some carb cleaner or wd40 in it while cranking and see if it pops or wants to run. If that's the case, then you know it is fuel related and the carb needs addressing. I have one tractor that I have been getting junk into the carb and I have cleaned it about 10 times now. Yesterday, I put an inline fuel filter between the sediment bowl and the carb, and I still don't have it cleaned 100% as it runs but not right yet. |
Oh yeah, done that too. :-) Get a clear one so you can see the junk...
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Farmall M Beginner
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Location: KS
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Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 8:57pm |
ChuckLuedtkeSEWI wrote:
Take and spray some carb cleaner or wd40 in it while cranking and see if it pops or wants to run. If that's the case, then you know it is fuel related and the carb needs addressing. I have one tractor that I have been getting junk into the carb and I have cleaned it about 10 times now. Yesterday, I put an inline fuel filter between the sediment bowl and the carb, and I still don't have it cleaned 100% as it runs but not right yet. |
The battery is low, I half to jump start it every time 'cause the alternator is bad, but would that matter because it has a Magneto not a distributor. Sorry I for got to ad that earlier. Thanks for every ones help. Coyote
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Bill Long
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Bel Air, MD
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Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 8:58pm |
I would suggest looking at the gas tank. Even new tractors had junk in them. Remember some of these are pushing 70 years old. Lot of junk can accumulate - especially when they get running again after sitting for a while.
Good Luck!
Bill Long
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Freewheelin
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Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 9:15pm |
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Had the same problem with my WD. Took the tank off, drained it, and a seal from a fuel additive cap fell out. It was jusr big enough to cover the inlet hole.
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Allen Dilg
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Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 10:35pm |
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Farmall Beginner This is way to go. Open the drain under the carb let it run 10 seconds should have steady FULL stream, if not find a coffee can, 3/8"pipe plug, remove the sediment bowl assy with coffee can under drain, install pipe plug in tank, look into inlet of sediment bowl for gunk clean bowl and inlet install a piece of fine brass screening in the inlet that looks like a cigarette, put teflon tape on inlet, pour gas back in tank. reverse procedure. the screen will keep the crud from getting into the top of sediment assy.
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Osage_Orange
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: SW MO
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Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 10:58pm |
If it is fuel related, you may have fine rust & sediment clogging up the inlet to the sediment bowl. If the tractor has set for a while, gasoline may be sloshing around in the tank and washing the rust down into the sediment bowl inlet. I had to clean my WD out several times before I got it all. One way to solve that problem is to extend the fuel inlet nipple about 1/4" or so above the bottom of the tank.
If fuel is OK, consider replacing the points and condenser........a bad condenser will give you fits (and sometimes appear as a fuel problem). Once my WD got so bad the tractor would only run with the choke almost full out.......Out of desperation I changed the points & condenser.........Problem solved.
FWIW...........O_O
Edited by Osage_Orange - 29 Mar 2010 at 11:00pm
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Why is there never time to do it right the first time, but always time to go back and fix it?
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Dave(inMA)
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Location: Grafton, MA
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Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 6:16am |
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I know that you've cleaned the carb several times - but it's really easy for tiny bits of crud to clog the jets in the carb. I'd do the gas flow checks and fixes described above, and I would pull the carb apart and thoroughly clean it again. Use carb cleaner and compressed air to make sure that all the orifices are open. Good luck!
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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john(MI)
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Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 7:04am |
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Look in the carb where the line connects. There is a cavity right there that can often be overlooked.
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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Stan IL&TN
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Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 7:15am |
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You need to do as Chuck suggested to determine if it's fuel or spark first, then go from there.
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Mojo
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Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 8:12am |
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Condensers don't cost much. Replace it. Never hurts to have a spare anyways.
mojo/Mike
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Farmall M Beginner
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Location: KS
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Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 8:55am |
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I want to thank every one, I'll try every thing today and I'll see were it puts me.
Thanks again,
Coyote
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Farmall M Beginner
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Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 11:59am |
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I have found out today that it is a electrical problem not a gas. I guess I will get a new condenser and points.
Thanks,
Coyote
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maurice
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Joined: 07 Mar 2010
Location: Franklin, IN
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Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 4:27pm |
I know all this can sound annoying, but do know that all these guys are being helpful! Yes, 70 years old, but we do this 'cause we don't want newer cheaply made stuff.
And yes, I've found that if I try to jump start it with a dead battery it won't start. If I charge up that 6 volt battery (even if it does not have enough umph to crank it over to start) but still jump it from a 12 volt battery, it will start. That is, the dead battery was the only difference.
For a few years now, I've had (2) 6 volt batteries on the WD wired to provide 6 volt but double cranking amps. And at times I still need to jump it from 12 volt (only for a few seconds or we start melting jumpers and other stuff). And yes, I know that this is a symptom of starter issues and more.
So don't get discourage! Can you feel all these arms on your shoulder and pats on the back?
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AC WD45
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Joined: 28 Sep 2009
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Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 5:51pm |
Remove bulb part and screen only. place a can of sorts under nozzel of the sediment bulb holder and turn gas on. stick a wire into the hole 2-3 inches deep and poke around to be sure it is clear of crap. If it is clear, gas flow should be a steady stream. not just a drip or a trickle. Remove complete sediment bulb assembly and place a funnel with a fine screen in it leading to a gas can under hole in gas tank The top inlet on this assembly has a hole 1/4"? Take a pice of copper pipe and insert it into this as far as it will go. It should also stick out of the top 1/2"-1". This will ensure crap cant get in as easeilly It should be a tight fit. completely drain the fuel tank into a gas can. USE A FUNNEL WITH A SCREEN so you don't just drain all of the crap in the tank and just put it back in. Clean the screen and dry it and put it back into the funnel. put sediment bulbl (after cleaning it) back inplace. Poor gas back into tank.
I know you said it was an electricle problem but since you already had crap in the sediment bulb, it will happen again and cause big problems. Doing the above will help prevent this from happening again, and getting worse.
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German Shepherd dad
1957 Allis Chalmers WD45
#WD234847
1951 Allis Chalmers WD
#WD88193
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Richard
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Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 7:49pm |
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I had trouble starting my 45 - checked everything. Made sure all the plugs were firing by grounding and watching for spark. Didn't replace the plugs because I saw good spark. Changed the points and condenser. A mechanic friend came and spent 2 minutes with it and told me to replace the spark plugs. He said they weren't all firing under pressure (when in the head). I replaced the plugs and the engine never started or ran better.
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Farmall M Beginner
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Posted: 31 Mar 2010 at 5:03pm |
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I changed out the Points, Condenser and spark plugs. I also raised up the stem on the bowl under the gas tank so it won't pickup any junk and it seems to be working. I wont to THANK every one for all the help and information.
Thanks again,
Coyote
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