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TBH64 
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Joined: 17 Feb 2010
Points: 3
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 Topic: WD45 VALVE ADJUSTMENT
Posted: 17 Feb 2010 at 8:52pm |
My first time rebuilding a WD45 and I need to adjust the valve gap. The manual gives me the gap "hot" but how do you do an initial adjustment cold? Then do I run the engine with the valve cover off or on to reset the gap hot? Can someone give me a step by step procedure on how to do this? Thanks.
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mlpankey
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Vols country
Points: 4580
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Posted: 17 Feb 2010 at 9:07pm |
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just adjust them to .014 cold you will be fine.
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firebrick43
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Joined: 10 Dec 2009
Location: Warren County
Points: 592
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Posted: 17 Feb 2010 at 9:37pm |
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Take the valve cover off, and turn the engine over slowly(I like to take the spark plugs out and grab hold of the fan belt and pull up to turn the engine over. Watch the valves and see which ones are being activated as you see the push rod go up and then down and stop movement adjust that valve. Use the hot setting just to get close, tightening the screw until you feel a slight drag on the feeler gauge. Holding the center screw tighten the lock nut and move on to the next valve. Mark each rocker arm in some fashion so you don't miss one. It will take at least two full revolutions to complete this task. Set the valve cover back(contain mess), install the plugs, and fire it up. Don't rev it or anything, just run it till it gets in the green on the gauge. Remove valve cover and plugs(plugs removal just makes turning the engine over easy) and repeat. Button it back up, put the hood back on and have fun
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Denis in MI
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Joined: 15 Sep 2009
Location: Norvell, MI
Points: 832
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Posted: 17 Feb 2010 at 10:39pm |
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you could adjust them with the engine running, I never tried it but saw it in a AC promotional video one time.
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1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14
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Charlie (NC)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Coastal NC
Points: 942
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Posted: 18 Feb 2010 at 5:26am |
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I think Firebricks got it right. Just wear an old shirt when you adjust it running. You'll figure out why.
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Chuck(ONT)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario
Points: 1055
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Posted: 18 Feb 2010 at 6:37am |
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I used to do my 56 Mercury with the engine running. What's the problem.
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 18 Feb 2010 at 6:46am |
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After you run it for an hr or two, retorque the head bolts the next morning (cold) and adjust all the valves to .015" COLD.
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Charlie (NC)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Coastal NC
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Posted: 18 Feb 2010 at 7:55am |
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Every Allis engine I've ever adjusted the valves on was very good at slinging droplets of oil in an arc about 3 feet above and to the sides of the tractor. Lot's of flow into the upper end of those engines and the rocker arms do a good job of slinging it. Your mileage may vary.
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TBH64
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Joined: 17 Feb 2010
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Posted: 18 Feb 2010 at 12:24pm |
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Ok, Thanks guys. I adjusted them to .015 cold but I have not tried to start it yet. I just wanted to make sure that I had to put the valve cover on first then run it. This thing hasn't been run in over fifteen years so there was a lot I needed to do to it.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22823
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Posted: 18 Feb 2010 at 5:38pm |
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If you haven't done it already, replace the freeze plugs in top of the head. It's not good to have one spring a leak after doing a bunch of other work on the engine.
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TBH64
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Joined: 17 Feb 2010
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Posted: 19 Feb 2010 at 12:43pm |
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I had that done when the head was rebuilt. Thanks.
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Prairie City Ia
Points: 10508
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Posted: 19 Feb 2010 at 12:47pm |
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When I did my Oliver 60, (very similar engine design) the fan was the main problem blowing the oil all over, not so much the rockers slinging it around.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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