WD45 cam and carb questions

Are you putting in new cam bearings?  I would while you are in there.

Well of course I'm putting in new cam bearings lol. :) I have $3000 into this thing. Polly gonna have close to $4500 when done. No stone being left unturned on this one...whatever it needs to be right it's getting it.

Steve is that all that needs to be changed to make it work? I'm not going to convert to full flow oiling. Can the WD45 cam be ground to 175 specs?

Edited by 79fordblake - 13 Aug 2016 at 3:59am

They are 7.2 pistons. My cam looks to be in great shape. I guess it's not much of a gain? I do alot of PTO work so it sounds like the D17 spring is a no. But I may get a new WD45 one I'm sure its not as strong as it once was. Yep I was also going to clean the air cleaner very good. Thanks for the tips. Looks like maybe I should just leave cam and carb alone. The carb will be rebuilt as well.

My opinion question is will the 175 cam help at the lower WD45 or not do much unless running high RPM's? I'm thinking in car terms where a cam is matched to a desired RPM range. Maybe we're so low and close with RPM's here that that train of though doesn't work here.

I wouldn't put a D17 spring in if you're going to use the PTO.

OK, let's put this 175 cam thing to bed;lol it will not be that much help on HP if you stay at stock RPM's for the WD45, and if all you have for pistons is the 7.2 to 1 going to the 175 cam and D17 spring it will not be much help if you are running the Wd45 under the higher RPM's of the D17 to stay at the lower RPM's the Wd45 engine run's at for 540 RPM. If you are looking for the highest HP out of the WD45 engine and PTO speed is not a problem then go big and high with pistons, cam and spring, carb change the air cleaner, drill the three 3/8" head studs out to 7/16" drill the manifold studs out to 7/16" install a D17/170/175 manifold, D17/170/175 muffler and find an early "A" Gleaner carb change the throttle shaft or weld the lever on the A Gleaner carb to work with your Wd45 governor. weld a reinforcement to the left side of the block, line bore the mains in the WD45 block so a D17 crank shaft will fit and you will have a big dog. lmao  

Edited by Don(MO) - 13 Aug 2016 at 1:12pm

79fordblake wrote: Lol ok Don you answered my question. I'm not even going to bother with it. I don't really want to turn the engine faster or make any major mods. Just a good dead reliable stock engine to last 60yrs. Lol.

Now you are thinking the right way. It will have more power over stock and last for years to come.
 
And I have not tried to install a D17 crank in aWD45 block, It might be one big job to do.
That list short list I posted above was most of the changes that happened to the 226 to get it up to the HP 175's have from the WD45 and stay in one piece.
Now if you can find all the parts to build a early 180 gas with the 226 engines you will have the biggest dog with AC parts inside. And just a FYI the 175 camshafts are on back-order.
  


Edited by Don(MO) - 13 Aug 2016 at 3:18pm

Oh what is it that always makes us want for more

Allis dave wrote: Oh what is it that always makes us want for more

Dave back when the IHC 1460 combines came out I got a call from a 50 year old big at the time farmer I think he farmed about 1500 acres, OK I'll get back to the story he called to see if I'd turn is fuel pump up, I asked him if the combine is still under warranty well yes it is, I told him that will void the warranty and I heard all about just how short on horse power and he will find someone that can turn it up, well back then I was running my own farm shop and a dollar was all I was looking for so out the door in the shop truck and to the field I went the new 1460 combine was sitting hood up all ready for me to do my HP turn-up job, I had been doing a-lot of AB 100 pumps on them IHC tractors and had a good best guess on the turning the fuel  up, he made a one round stopped and said that's better but I need more HP well what the heII I gave him a lot more fuel and it looked like the old pulling tractor of the time, turbo lag and all intell the engine got over about 1200 and then it came to life and he was in good wheat in the mud what a rear wheel asst and tracks on the front pushing mud and cutting ruts three foot deep and the engine was still turning 2450 RPM's and the black was covering the back of the combine I told him I needed to turn it down some we he said to leave it alone, OK I did and he had to stop after one maybe two rounds and let it cool down. Yes the engine let go in a grand way inside parts laying on the outside of the engine and even a part of one rod in the grain tank. I had done a lot of 1440/1460/1480 combines and was good at removing the steel seals on the pumps and had a lot of them in my tool box (I might still have one or two it there)  I turned the fuel pump back down the same number of turns that it was setup to installed a seal and shot some red paint over the pump Good old IHC replaced the engine but reinstalled the old pump on it so it was sent to the pump shop and set back to spec's. All he needed as more and that cost him having someone cut his wheat as his new combine sat in the shop getting repaired.       

Fun story Don. That's the way it goes....