WD45 brake ?

Remove top cover and best you can blow out all the 60 years of mouse nests. put on FULL leathers so you don't get burnt. Using cutting tourch working thru the mouse access hole directly under brake drum cut about 1/2" out of the pin. Take punch and drive pin in 1/2" and cut again. Repeat until outside half of pin is all gone. Inner piece will usually come right out with vice grips.   Be careful not to cut the ears of the brake shoes. You can make a new pin from 3/4" cold rolled steel. Also the rod from the shoes to the pedal can often twist off but can be fixed when you get everything on the bench by drilling and tapping   (3/8") A brake job on one of these can easily be the most difficult job you will ever do on a WD / WD45. Good luck and keep us posted.   ps Do this job outside as there will be lots of smoke from the mouse nests.

One note, if you have to cut the pin be careful when you drive the pin in that it doesn't bind on the hole in the shoe. I didn't and it bent the bottom of my shoe and ended up the shoe off too.

There is room under the axle housing to drill and tap the end of the pin. You can do this after grinding the case hardening off, less than 1/16" thick. Then use a socket or piece of pipe that fits over the brake pin, a grade 8 bolt or stud, I use 3/8-24 thread, washers, and pull the pin out. Drill and tap new pins before installing them. Protect threads with short capscrew and grease in hole and threads. Put grease or anti-seize on brake pins and in inner brake pin hole. You or someone else will think you were pretty smart the next time a brake job needs to be done if you do this. 

If you do not have a cutting torch or a way to cut the pin then you must be patient.  Repeated heating with a hand held map gas torch and cooling down with lots of your favorite concocktion.  I also used a small pipe wrench which helped rocking the pin back and forth.  Two hours on one side and a week on the other.

CTuckerNWIL wrote:   You may have hardened the pin buy heating, if it cooled down fast enough. Hard don't always mean better cause without tempering, a hard piece will break easier. If you heat any carbon steel up and keep some heat on it so it cools slow or insulate it, to slow cooling, you can soften it. All this depends on the temperature to which it was heated