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DanC911 
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Joined: 22 Jul 2014
Location: CT, USA
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 Topic: WD Transmission
Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 6:55pm |
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I need to return to the Well of Knowledge again for some help with the transmission on my 1950 WD. It seems like when i get one thing fixed another brakes. I had the PTO seals rebuilt the the hydraulic pump leaked so I sent that out. I got it back and installed and the carb started pouring fuel. What next you ask? Well...
I tried to shift it tonight and it seems like the lever is disconnected internally and the transmission is stuck in 3rd gear. Is this common? Is this going to be a complicated/expensive fix? Is there anything I should know before I take the top of the transmission off?
I appreciate any advice you can offer.
Edited by DanC911 - 25 Sep 2017 at 6:58pm
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1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader
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Dakota Dave
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: ND
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Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 7:25pm |
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Don't take the top off. Remove the boot and take out the big snap ring under it. Pull the shifter lever up and out be careful to not drop the little anti rotation pin in the hole. It'll stay in the hole if you don't get gorilla on it. Take a big screwdriver and re align the three slots you can see down there. Now look at the end of your shifter it should look like a 1/2" ball ground to 3/8" flat on the sides. If it dosent that is most likely your problem. That little square headed pin in the hole should fit the slot on the side of the ball part in the middle of the shifter fairly well. 90 % of the time fixing the worn ball end of the shifter lever will fix your problem.you should be able to pull the lever realign the shifter rails and get it back mobile in about 20 minutes. The first time you pull that big snapping you'll get to practice your bad vocabulary. If you shift carefullyyoucan limp it along till you have down time to do the end repair.
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DanC911
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Joined: 22 Jul 2014
Location: CT, USA
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Posted: 25 Sep 2017 at 10:03pm |
 Dakota Dave wrote:
Don't take the top off. Remove the boot and take out the big snap ring under it. Pull the shifter lever up and out be careful to not drop the little anti rotation pin in the hole. It'll stay in the hole if you don't get gorilla on it. Take a big screwdriver and re align the three slots you can see down there. Now look at the end of your shifter it should look like a 1/2" ball ground to 3/8" flat on the sides. If it dosent that is most likely your problem. That little square headed pin in the hole should fit the slot on the side of the ball part in the middle of the shifter fairly well. 90 % of the time fixing the worn ball end of the shifter lever will fix your problem.you should be able to pull the lever realign the shifter rails and get it back mobile in about 20 minutes. The first time you pull that big snapping you'll get to practice your bad vocabulary. If you shift carefullyyoucan limp it along till you have down time to do the end repair. |
Thank you for the info Dave. I think I have an idea of what to do but does anyone have or know where I can see a picture or diagram of what I should see? This is my first time in the transmission.
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1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader
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littlemarv
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Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: 26 Sep 2017 at 12:35pm |
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Take off the boot. Underneath that is the large snap ring and spacer. Clean the dirt and rust out before you pull the snap ring, it goes a lot easier. Gently lift the lever out, and make sure the pin or pins in the sides of the tower don't fall in. Get a magnet and remove them so you don't knock them in. There are three "gates" down there. When all three are lined up you have neutral. Use a screwdriver or prybar to shift them back into position. When in neutral, the "gates" should form a rectangle for the shifter ball to go in. Reassemble and don't drop the pins in. Once you take it apart you will see how a worn ball can go right through the "gate" and get you in the bind you are in. Next time I do one I will take pictures.
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Jim Hancock
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Location: EL Reno, Ok.
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Posted: 26 Sep 2017 at 2:15pm |
Use grease on the guide pin(s) to hold them in their hole when inserting the gearshift lever back in. I just did this a couple of weeks ago on my WD45. Ordered a new lever that just came yesterday.
Edited by Jim Hancock - 26 Sep 2017 at 2:16pm
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How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
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DanC911
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Joined: 22 Jul 2014
Location: CT, USA
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Posted: 27 Sep 2017 at 9:31am |
Thanks everyone for the help. I took it apart last night and it really
was as easy as you say...once I got the retaining clip out. It looks
like there was a previous repair because the top of the shifter ball
(just under the boot) was packed with what looked like never seize. Plus the ball on the bottom looks like it was crudely replaced or repaired.  I am looking online for a new shifter and they all have a curve like the WD45. Is there anything different on the working end between the earlier WD shifter and the later WD and WD45's?
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1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 27 Sep 2017 at 12:19pm |
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It won't work. Heat yours up and bend it if you need it curved.
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DanC911
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Posted: 27 Sep 2017 at 1:54pm |
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Thanks for the info. It doesn't need to be curved. All of the aftermarket shifters I have found online are the curved ones. I will have to keep looking.
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1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader
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jkoby
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Joined: 26 Aug 2014
Location: New Castle, IN
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Posted: 30 Sep 2017 at 6:45am |
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I never pulled out my shifter. I found that if i know what hear i am in, I can pull up slightly, hold it in the approximate location for that gear, and drop it right back into the spot. After a few times, you really get the feel for it. I typically would be moving again within seconds.
We drove for years without that snap ring for that reason.
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AaronSEIA
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Posted: 30 Sep 2017 at 7:23am |
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Someone somewhere has a quick drawing of how to weld up and grind down the ball on the shifter to get back to factory specs. I know I have seen it here, but have never taken the time to save it.
AaronSEIA
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DrAllis
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Posted: 30 Sep 2017 at 8:41am |
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It's not just only the pivot ball or end tip that wears, it's also the shift lug slots (three of them) and the pocket in the shift cover. Then, there's the square side pins too. Some tractors shifting parts are so badly worn, I've had to start over with a better shift cover from a donor tractor.
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