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Wd front oil seal |
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Pete32 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 07 Dec 2016 Location: NW-WI Points: 37 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 19 Feb 2018 at 1:50pm |
Hello everyone, I'm going to be replacing the radiator on my WD in the next week or so. I'm thinking this would be a good time to replace the front crankshaft oil seal at the same time. It's leaking pretty good. Anyways, I've watched Don's video on replacing the oil pan gaskets and oil seals. Here is my question:
If I don't need to pull the timing gear cover to access the seal, do i just pull the pulley, pull the old crank shaft oil seal out, lube up the new one, and drive it into place with the 6" piece of PVC pipe that Don mentioned. I read on another forum that I needed to make sure the oil seal is centered on the crankshaft. The forum confused me because I thought the crankshaft was the only thing that i had to center in the timing cover. Any advice would be great. Thanks again~ Matt
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AaronSEIA ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mt Pleasant, IA Points: 2570 |
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The timing cover isn't dowled if I remember correctly. If it can float around a bit before bolting tight, then the oil seal can be offset from centerline of the crank. This will make the seal leak sooner and wear much faster.
AaronSEIA |
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Tim NH ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Lancaster NH Points: 1123 |
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I would take the front cover off. There aren't any dowels in that cover. I didn't have to use a speedy sleeve to stop the leak from grooves cut by the old seal on the crank. The new seal didn't take up as much space in the cover as the original one. Tim
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1950 WD 1959 D14 1955 WD45 1976 7000 B 207
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Don(MO) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Bates City MO. Points: 6862 |
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Please go back and watch it again, I talked about you might need to re-line the cover to the crankshaft if the seal is leaking.
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Pete32 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 07 Dec 2016 Location: NW-WI Points: 37 |
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Thanks for all the replies. Don, I will go back and watch it again. Thanks for making the video. Is the reason for taking the timing cover off because the new seal might be a little smaller?
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Dave H (NE) ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Western NE Points: 288 |
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you would only need to take the timing cover off to center it to the chankshaft. if it is centered now , just replace the seal.
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PaulB ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 5088 |
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I have 1 or 2 NOS front seals that are the original type with leather and felt.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
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CTuckerNWIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22825 |
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If I was doing it, I wouldn't take it off unless it is leaking around the mating surfaces. I would remove the pulley and old seal, then check alignment and if necessary slightly loosen the bolts to line it back up.
Of course any movement might cause the seal of the gasket to let go and create a leak around the gasket surface ![]() |
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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Pete32 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 07 Dec 2016 Location: NW-WI Points: 37 |
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I’ve finally had some time to work on it this weekend. I will need to take the cover off to center the new seal and install a speedy sleeve. The Oil seal retainer scored the crankshaft. The engine is still in the tractor. I have 2 questions
1. Does the governor housing have to come off to get the timing cover off? 2. Any tips on getting the timing cover off? It’s really stuck on there. I think someone may have used a silicon gasket sealer on it. Thanks |
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