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Goose 
Orange Level
Joined: 07 Oct 2009
Location: Melrose, Wis
Points: 2471
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 Topic: WD brake shoes
Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 9:57am |
I had to take my WD tractor to a shop to get the brake pins removed with a torch because they're in there solid.
He says he'll have to ruin the metal brake shoes, or brackets or whatever you call them, to get them out. Do you know where I can get some? I already got the linings - I need the metal parts that the linings attach to.
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Butch(OH)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Lucerne Ohio
Points: 3835
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Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 10:38am |
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Outside of a tractor that has never seen inside there is no reason to ruin the shoes to cut the pin out. Tell him the pin is almost always stuck in the outside hole, not the inside hole next to the housing nor in the shoes. You cut the middle of the pin out from the bottom access hole, (leave enough of the inside pin to grab with vise grips) Then using a drift beat the outside part of the pin in til it touches and cut again, If the pin wont move heat the casting and it will. Then repeat until enough is cut off that the outside part falls out. Then grab what is left on the inside with the vise grips and you should be able to wiggle it out. You may have to cut it again to get it short enough to fall out. All of this can usualy be avoided to begin with by heating the outside pin boss in the casting while using a properly built puller BEFORE the end of the pin is mushroomed by beating on it.
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sandylakeimplement
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Joined: 18 Sep 2009
Location: Sandy Lake, PA
Points: 399
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Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 12:41pm |
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Ditto what Butch says but if you need shoes we can provide them as well as the pins. S>L>I
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Sandy Lake Implement
Sandy Lake, PA
724-376-2489
www.sandylakeimp.com
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Rick of HopeIN
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Hope, Indiana
Points: 1324
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Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 5:38pm |
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amazing trick! Hope I can remember that one.
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1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Jackson, WI
Points: 1826
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Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 6:00pm |
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Like what Butch said. I ruined the first side the first time I ever did it, but then I learned and did a good job on the second side. I might have an extra set laying around here if you need some. I'll take a look after dinner and see if I have any in the shop.
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1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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B26240
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Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: mn
Points: 3860
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Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 6:37pm |
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Butch is 100% correct!!! Ive done several, also suggest doing it outside as there will be smoke from the 50 years of mouse nests .
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Rick of HopeIN
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Hope, Indiana
Points: 1324
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Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 6:41pm |
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would a sawzall get it?
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1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless
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Vinnie/S.D.
Silver Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Sioux Falls S.D
Points: 69
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Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 8:40pm |
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sawsall will do it better then a a fire it the tractor
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allisorange
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Joined: 27 Mar 2010
Location: perkins, michig
Points: 381
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Posted: 29 Oct 2010 at 8:03pm |
Just did one today like Butch said. It works great on mine.
John Carlson
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kollmangr
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Joined: 26 Jan 2010
Location: Ridgecrest, CA
Points: 3
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Posted: 23 Dec 2010 at 2:40pm |
Butch, You mentioned a properly built puller. I have not ruined mine yet, and would like to use a puller to get them out. Is there any particular brand of puller that will pull them out? Or do you have one for sale? Or can you give me some ideas on how to build one?
Thanks, Gordon
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nowaktj
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Joined: 13 Dec 2009
Location: Elk River, MN
Points: 726
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Posted: 23 Dec 2010 at 3:04pm |
See on the bottom of this webpage. Gary makes a puller that grabs the outside of these pins:
This is a link to a similar discussion:
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D19D, D17D, WD, WC, Snobee, #83 Plow, SC Blade, 14' disk, 400 series planter, B , Terra Tiger, M Dozer w/Baker Blade, TL-12, 42S Grader, G
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MACK
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Joined: 17 Nov 2009
Points: 7664
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Posted: 23 Dec 2010 at 9:18pm |
If the pin is loose enough the puller will pull it, then you don't need it. Have tride it in years past.
Drill a hole the same size as pin in a piece of 1/4" steel 2' long slide over the end of pin and weld it. Work it back and forth with pennitrate oil on it. If it don't move twist the head off and get the cutting torch.
The puller will only pull the head off if it is tight. MACK
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Brian G. NY
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: 12194
Points: 2244
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Posted: 24 Dec 2010 at 8:54am |
I like the Sawzall method, as well. Haven't tried it but I intend to if I run into a problem pin in the future..
I believe there will be many cases tho, where a torch will still be needed
to heat up the casting before the pin will move.
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