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BradH 
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Joined: 28 Feb 2016
Location: Corydon Ia.
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 Topic: WD 45 manafold stud removal
Posted: 28 Jun 2017 at 6:41pm |
Hey guys, Just ordered a new manifold for my WD 45 today. It should be here next week, if not sooner. I got the old one off already, it went easier than I expected. I need suggestions on how to get the old studs out now. One turned out when I removed the manifold, guess I got lucky there. But the rest are stuck so far. I've tried soaking them with oil some already. I also don't have a torch, might be able to borrow one If I look real hard though. Any help would be great. Thanks, Brad
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Dick L
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edon Ohio
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Posted: 28 Jun 2017 at 7:32pm |
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You will get a lot of different ways to get them out. Heat on the head will expand the internal threads. However I have never broke a manifold bolt in many years by gripping the stud tight against the head. I have used a pipe type channel lock pliers most of the time. I also have used vice grips. Not clamping tight against the head gives the stud room to twist/flex which causes a weak area.
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BradH
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Joined: 28 Feb 2016
Location: Corydon Ia.
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Posted: 28 Jun 2017 at 8:43pm |
That's good advice, I'll give it a try. I was just sitting here thinking, the new studs I bought have a flat spot on either side to put a wrench on to turn them. Of course, the old ones don't. Do you think it would be possible for me to use my dremel and cut a similar flat area on them near the head to turn them with? This is just the ramblings of a crazy man thinking out loud here, let me know what you guys think. Thanks, Brad
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JimD
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Location: Mounds, OK
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Posted: 28 Jun 2017 at 8:52pm |
I wouldn't grind a flat on the old ones. Step 1, soak in QUALITY penetrating oil Kroil is the favorite here, but I prefer Deep Creep (from orielly's). Keep it wet until totally ready to do the job. I bought a cheap stud remover kit from Harbor freight, but I got what I paid for.... I usually do like Dick suggested. If they break, I slip a nut over the stub, and weld it with a mig. The heat really breaks it loose. And the nut gives you something to twist without getting weird angles that encourage it to break.
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MACK
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Posted: 28 Jun 2017 at 10:14pm |
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Beat on the ends of the stud with a hammer will help. MACK
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Stan IL&TN
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Posted: 29 Jun 2017 at 6:53am |
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Plumbers pipe wrench grips the studs quite nicely.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 29 Jun 2017 at 7:02am |
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I broke mine off welded a nut on a couple times then took it to the local blacksmith and he took them out. I dropped the tractor off two hours later I came back and it was done. Its was only $60 and I had already spent a full day trying to get them out. usually I can get them out using a big splash of FreeAll tap with a hammer and a vise grip close to the head. the last ones I did were corroded down to less than half there normal size It had been run a long time with bad gaskets when I bought it. and they just didnt want to come out.
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BradH
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Posted: 29 Jun 2017 at 3:09pm |
Well it sounds like I've got some tinkering to do over the next couple of weeks then. I talked to my dad on the phone last night about it. If I don't get them in the next couple weeks he's gonna try and come up to help me. With a torch, impact wrench, and a big hammer we can surely make something happen. Thanks again, Brad
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 29 Jun 2017 at 3:36pm |
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One 'trick' I've used on ANY bolt or stud that has to come out is...
If it doesn't start to come out, tighten it a weeee bit.
If you get ANY motion on the bolt great !
Loosen just a tad, then tighten a wee bit
Repeat this, jusy do NOT get 'gready' and try to undo it fast.
Back and forth, in and out...
Yes, it'll take awhile BUT it should come out
NOTHING is worse than getting 3-4 turns from sucess , getting impatient, reefing on the bolt and SNAP.... busted FLUSH with the head,or block of whatever...
NOTHING.
BTW I just got ALL 4 of the steel bolts that hold the aluminum spindle on a 10 year old lawn mower deck off.....see I even listened to my 'words of wisdom'....
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
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DrAllis
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Posted: 29 Jun 2017 at 3:57pm |
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You're going to replace all the studs anyway. Do like Mack said and hit the ends of each stud like you were driving a nail. Hit them with a 3 lb hammer pretty hard several times and this will help loosen up the threads.
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Dave Richards (WV)
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Posted: 29 Jun 2017 at 7:08pm |
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A quality stud remover is a very good investment.
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j.w.freck
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Posted: 29 Jun 2017 at 7:21pm |
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have used Freon to remove a lot of dc-8 main landing gear retract pins that were broken off.put a heat lamp on the area of the bolt overnite.spray the botl with Freon 13 if you can still get it.spray some croil on the stud prior to the Freon.start working the stud.the heat lamp will heat up a large area of the head without cracking or damageing anything.....
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BradH
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Posted: 29 Jun 2017 at 9:54pm |
Thanks for the advice Jay. That's how I got the nuts off the studs to begin with. Sprayed and wiggled back and forth. That job lasted a couple hours off and on but it worked. If the wife wasn't making me go on vacation next week I'd have more time to spend getting this done. Since it's not at my own house it's harder to work on it a little each night. Thanks, Brad P.S. I thought about buying a stud remover. Then I thought the wife might find out what it was and use it on me. Then where would the world be?
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Joe(TX)
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Posted: 30 Jun 2017 at 6:17am |
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On my WC engine, I had to cut the studs off where they were exposed because I couldn't get the manifold off. I drove nuts on and welded them in place. They cam out pretty easy. I had soaked the several times with PB Blaster
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1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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Allis dave
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Posted: 30 Jun 2017 at 3:56pm |
I think a stud remover is best. It puts all the torque a tittle more square and gives you a better bite vice grips. Steiners is the only Vendor I found that sells the correct studs. the ones with a flat spot for a wrench are too short and don't "bottom correctly in the head.
Look for "Manifold Studs" about half way down for pictures and a more detailed explanation.
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BradH
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Posted: 30 Jun 2017 at 4:48pm |
So, are we saying I bought studs that aren't going to work then? It's been a couple months since I ordered them but I think they came from DJ's. Don't have them here to confirm though. Later, Brad
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JimD
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Posted: 30 Jun 2017 at 4:59pm |
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If you bought from DJ's you bought from steiner.
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Owner of OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543
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Joe(TX)
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Posted: 30 Jun 2017 at 5:30pm |
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I bought the genuine Allis Chalmers studs from Minnpar.com. $6.72 each. Most of the other ones I have seen are actually tooling studs (the ones with the flats) and have too long of a thread on the block end. They tend to thread too deeply in the block which makes them appear too short. The originals only have about 1/2 inch of thread.
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1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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Allis dave
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Posted: 03 Jul 2017 at 7:03am |
 JimD wrote:
If you bought from DJ's you bought from steiner. |
no, I also bought from DJ's and they were incorrect. I bought another set from Steiner's and they were correct. I've bought studs from Steiner's twice now in 8 years and they were correct both times. Joe's exactly right. Too much thread. To make then work you have to partially unscrew them until you get it right. I'd much rather have the correct ones screwed all the way in and seated firmly.
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BradH
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Posted: 03 Jul 2017 at 7:26am |
So, if I go ahead and use the ones I have are they going to work loose and cause me a problem someday? I bought from DJ's because that was what I could afford. One set was enough, didn't realize there was a difference. Oh well, some lessons are learned the hard way. Later, Brad
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Allis dave
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Posted: 03 Jul 2017 at 1:00pm |
The ones you have will probably be ok. Make sure to put some sort of sealer on the threads before screwing into the head. I'd put the studs and manifold on all at once so everything will cure together. Then everyday before you start it up, re-torque to 20lb. It will take 2-3 times before they quit moving. I could try to put a wrench on the studs when re-torqueing to keep them from turning and breaking their seal.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 03 Jul 2017 at 1:36pm |
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When I have a broken off bolt, I always weld a flat washer (with the exact same size hole as the broken off bolt) to the broken off bolt and then a larger nut on top of that. The flat washer allows you to get a good weld on the broken bolt because it's thinner and the weld rod fits it better than the insides of a 3/8" nut.
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Allis dave
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Posted: 03 Jul 2017 at 7:01pm |
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That's a good idea. Never heard that one before.
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