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garden_guy 
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Joined: 05 Jul 2013
Location: Illinois
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 Posted: 09 May 2020 at 3:41pm |
I had a little bit of thought about taking the main jet out from the bottom (the big brass tube that goes from the bottom up into the venturi) to clean it more, but I can see that someone before me half-stripped the screw head, so I do not want to tempt fate and am just going to clean her up and re-assemble and see if we can't get this tractor running again.
EDIT: My bad, I think it is the emulsion tube that is messed up.
Edited by garden_guy - 09 May 2020 at 4:10pm
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garden_guy
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Location: Illinois
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Posted: 09 May 2020 at 4:18pm |
So how can I tell if these two items are clear? Where do they "come out" at?
And it seems to be the head of the emulsion tube that is stripped. It's the thing underneath the main adjustment jet when you pull that thing the L-shaped piece goes in right? Where you can see the tube coming up in the above picture where the venturi goes?
If everything is clear, I think I'll just clean it up and re-assemble and not tempt fate...
Edited by garden_guy - 09 May 2020 at 4:20pm
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 09 May 2020 at 9:34pm |
GG, Squirt carb cleaner through those with a face shield on. Should tell you if they are open. The emulsion tube has some very fine holes in there that unfortunately you cant see without removing it. Regards, Chris |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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garden_guy
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Posted: 09 May 2020 at 10:05pm |
Thanks Chris, I will give that a shot tomorrow.
Looks like someone went at this with too narrow of a screwdriver.
Here's to hoping everything is "open" when I check it.
You can also see some of the rust at the top of the drain plug area I ran into.
Edited by garden_guy - 09 May 2020 at 10:05pm
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Sugarmaker
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Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 10 May 2020 at 9:20am |
GG, You may have it out by now. Yes make a special screw driver to fit the slot width and the dia. If possible. Soak with blaster. Put the carb base in a soft vice. Down force and turn screw drive with a cheater as careful as you can. The other thing that may help get a can of Berrymans carb cleaner and soak carb, Or set up a small bucket with electrolysis and let it clean the carb. Good luck. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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garden_guy
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Posted: 10 May 2020 at 3:09pm |
Chris,
I am going to check with carb cleaner and compressed air, and only take out the emulsion tube if I need to. Looks like I'll have to buy a cheap screwdriver and grind it flat on the sides if I want to try this myself. But today's project was to get myself some homemade air since I don't own a compressor.
Trial run went pretty good, just waiting for them to cure now. Only cost me $3 for the two valves, and I already had the empty cans sitting around. Can you believe they want $10 for canned compressed air!? (I know it's not just air, but still). Doesn't last for too long when pressurized up to about 60 PSI, but enough to blast a jet or two out!
Will probably be next weekend before I get a crack at it again, but I'll let you know how it goes! Going to try carb cleaner and compressed air in those two holes with a face shield on and see that I get some flow in the emulsion tube.
Edited by garden_guy - 10 May 2020 at 3:11pm
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garden_guy
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Location: Illinois
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Posted: 16 May 2020 at 10:57am |
So I finally got myself some "air", and blew it in the carb's holes there. The tiny hole on the far left of this photo leads to a big burst of air in the emulsion tube. However, shooting air in the bigger hole to the right, I get air in the emulsion tube, but it seems like it also goes "other places". Is this right?
EDIT:
So I put my finger over the bottom hole and sprayed some air in it, and I can feel plenty of air pressure come thru the emulsion tube by doing that from both of these holes, so I feel like I'm in good shape.
Picture of my new compressor and accessories. It isn't much, but I got the whole setup for under $40!
Edited by garden_guy - 16 May 2020 at 11:45am
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chaskaduo
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Posted: 16 May 2020 at 3:08pm |
Forty Bucks, WoW 
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 16 May 2020 at 7:44pm |
GG, You did good with the air compressor! some times you dont need much. Sounds like your passages are open. Good luck with the rebuild of the carb! Thanks for the update too! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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garden_guy
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Location: Illinois
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Posted: 17 May 2020 at 1:54pm |
chaskaduo -- I know, right? Got lucky!
Sugarmaker -- Thanks! Very pleased with the setup. I think the carb is good, but I can tell the sediment bowl must be plugged up, so next up is some gas tank and sediment bowl cleaning. Going to have to work around the loader a bit which makes it tricky. Also need to take a few more pics of how the loader and the controls are mounted for that other topic when I make it back out to work on it next weekend. Also got an inline spark checker to make sure we're getting good spark!
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DaveKamp
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Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
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Posted: 17 May 2020 at 3:28pm |
Ah, just sent you a message about compressors. That little bugger will be handy for this kind of application, and if you're patient, pumping up a smaller tire. If you want to run real tools, we can get you into something more capable, albeit, less portable.
Here's a link to a pic:
This one might not be exactly same as yours, but the concept- side holes... is the same.
The emulsion tube has holes in the SIDES as well as the ends. Blowing air through them will prove that the ends are clear, but the brunt of the work is done through the tiny holes on the sides. If they're plugged, it won't run worth $#!1
And also- My favorite carb-cleaning tools: 1) dip tank 2) aerosol carb cleaner 3) torch tip orfice cleaning tool 4) Guitar string... I save my old D'addario XL stainless/nickel .009 through .011 strings, cut 'em into 8" lengths, and keep 'em in a basket. Banjo strings work great, too, but I'm lousy on a banjo, and as they say... if you're lousy, and you don't practice, nobody will ever know how lousy you are, right??? 5) Ultrasonic cleaning tank. Mine is filled with distilled water, has heat, and a timer. I don't put carbs directly in the distilled water... instead, I pour my choice of solvent into a ziplock bag, drop in the parts, zip it shut, leave some airspace at the top, and drop it in the tank. The air pocket keeps the bag 'floating', but the solvent is still passing ultrasonic shock through and cleaning off the crud.
5) compressed air. Lots of it... 6) ... enough to run a tabletop blast-cabinet... with beads... makes carbs clean as new!!!
My tip- NEVER blow out orfices of a carbeurator without holding the carb in a paper bag or an old gym sock. Why? Because that one little part STILL in there, will usually depart rapidly, and the bag or sock will catch it, so you don't send it off into your shop somewhere at 612mph....
Edited by DaveKamp - 17 May 2020 at 3:37pm
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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garden_guy
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Location: Illinois
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Posted: 18 May 2020 at 9:18am |
DaveKamp -- Thanks! One day I need to get a real big shop air compressor. For now, my shop is more of a shed and all I've got is 120, so this little guy works great. Some day I'll get my own shed built with a work space where I can get some real power to have a welder and shop air and stuff. Thanks for the pic of that emulsion tube. Literally cannot see those holes in there when it is installed, but thanks to my carb cleaner and compressed air combo thru the 2 tiny side holes in the lower bowl, I can at least tell I've got flow now!
Yeah I don't have a dip tank or ultrasonic cleaner, I've always just used spray carb cleaner for better or worse (compressed air really seems to aid this now). Good call on saving old guitar strings. I've got some SIT .010 and .013 spare strings I could use.
Blast cabinets are nice. Only time I've used one I had to borrow a coworker's to do some rims. I've got a lot of needs for my future shop, haha.
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BV
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Bono Arkansas
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Posted: 18 May 2020 at 2:16pm |
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what do you use to paint these carbs when you're finished to keep them from rusting, orange or a paint that's the color of metal, i think i've seen this before
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