TSX 464 carb refurb (WD series)

 Yes I did find it on line too.

 Thanks,

 Regards,

 Chris

 Ok grab a coffee and kick back testing the new camera on this carb build.

As mentioned I just wanted to get this together so I chose not to strip it again. The paint will look ok.

So the assembly begins:

installed the power jet that I broke and got out. I put a little oil on the threads when installing these items:

small jet put in upper body:

Seat for needle valve and its gasket:

throttle shaft and new rubber seal, plus retainer:

Throttle plate in position: I had not installed the low speed screw yet. Made sure the plate looked good and fit good, in the bore prior to tightening the screws. Used just a little blue Loctite on the threads,

Installed low speed jet:

Venturi was not in the rebuild kit:

Float was adjusted by placing a rod near the pivot point and very gently pushing down on the floats. Then checked for the 1/4 inch dimension from gasket the float with same rod.

Emulsion tube and gasket and main high speed valve and gasket:

Emulsion tube in home position:

Choke rod felt seal and new retainer:

Choke plate installed:

Screws and lock washers attach the two halves together:

High speed adjusting valve in place:

I choose to use the drain cock vs the brass plug. This allows the gas to drain easily if needed.

TSX 464 complete except for brass gas inlet elbow:

Paint match is close enough for me.

Comments always welcome. I may have made some mistakes? Good to point those out too.

 All in all this was probably the best carb re-build I have done. Thanks for the help along the way too!

Now we need to "test on it" this spring!

Regards,

 Chris

I'm not pickin' on yer' job. The Carb looks great and your assembly & pics were great, but I noticed in the one pic looking down that inlet bore going to the needle valve looks rusty in there. It's important that the inlet is super clean. Dirt, rust, and debris gather in the rear of that cavity, and that crap gets hung up under the Viton needle causing a flooding issue. I always run a bore brush on a hand drill down that cavity like I do in the nozzle bore and make sure I clean the threads with the bore brush to get rid of any rust in the threads that will get into and stick to the Viton needle valve. I get that bore nice n' shiny. If its just the pic that makes it look that way then disregard my comment. I'm a little anal when I rebuild stuff.   LOL!   Carb should work fine I would think... Forgot to add, I usually crank the air/fuel mix screw about 1 1/2 turns, and the enrichment needle about 2 turns for a starting point. Once you get the engine up to normal operating temp you can dial in the Carb accordingly at idle and at WOT.    HTH

Steve@B&B

I can send ya a pic of the different brushes that I use to clean these bores out. A lot of muck and debris from old fuel, contaminants, and such get settled into these cavities. That's why its so tough getting some of these jets or nozzles out. In my Carb kits, I don't supply jets. In most cases the jets are fine if removed with the correct tool, but if a jet is damaged or breaks removing it, I always put the same jet back in as I took out unless I'm building a pulling Carburetor for a customer, but that's getting into a whole another subject. 

I know what Dave is referring to on the Model A Carburetors. Most of those that are on Model T, A, & early B motors are updraft Zeniths. A little bit different from Tractor Zeniths, but the principal is the same. They're enrichment systems are a little different, and depending on the mfr. of the Carburetor kit, in a lot of cases, the jets are not always the same as what came in the Carburetor's originally as Dave mentioned. Sometimes you have to drill out a jet for those particular Carbs to the next size up depending on which engine its on and model Carb. I believe ole' Henry used a couple different model Zeniths through the 28-31 A Bone years. I also rebuilt a Holley many years back for one of my Model A  customer's. My BIL is supposed to be sending up his Carburetor off his 31 A Sedan that he drives everyday to work down in Wildwood Crest where he lives. He drives his all year round. He's probably having to much fun driving his Tudor to remove the Carb to send it up for a rebuild!   LOL! 

Steve@B&B

Steve@B&B 

 Wife says she is leaving if I buy another toy (car)! Dang I will miss her! I found a driver not a show car 56 Vic. Would be another money pit. The engine you rebuilt probably was a 312. Or it could have been a 292 which was debuted in 56 I think. The Thunderbird had a 312 in 56 I believe. Just have always liked those old Ford Y blocks. Not a great engine but they sure sounded good! I remember hearing a friend drive his two tone green 56 past my place and the sound of the duals was just awesome. That was 1967. 

I had my 55 crown for about 30 years it was in bad shape. Bought it in 1971 for $50 with no engine or trans. Lots of work over 6-7 years. That was mid 70's, sold that one in 1997

after I had done a shade tree restoration and did get it on the road for a year or two. Then it set with engine out for rebuild for years. Kids in college and needed some cash. Life has its issues.

Ok I feel better!

Regards,

 Chris

 I believe the adjustment on the lower front of the carb (TSX464) is the main jet.

 I would look in the book first, but I usually set them 1.5 turns out to start. 

Since I have pulled my WD45 a couple times I would generally turn that "L" shaped adjuster out a turn when I was pulling. Fast forward to a month ago and I thought to myself which is generally dangerous, maybe should turn that main jet back in. So I did. 

Next time I started the tractor it would run but only for a short time then stall like it was running out of gas. Checked tank, had fuel, took off the sediment bowl and cleaned. Still had same issue. Start and run and stall. Choking it helped. Humm, turned the idle jet out one turn, and it was just fine!

Good luck on your carb refurb!

 Regards,

 Chris

 I would recommend getting the kit from one of the supplier. I used Sandy Lake and was very pleased with the parts included!

 Regards,

 Chris

Fortunately everything looks in good enough shape other than some rust in the base and a bit of gunk in the main jet, it seems not bad. Cleaning her up, will put in a new gasket and probably see if the tractor will run with it at this point. Will start with 1.5 turns out on both screws and see what we get.

Suggestions to scrape off the remnants of the old paper gasket material without scratching the casting?

I also understand that if the pieces are still functional and not worn they can be cleaned and reused too. 

As I read back through some of this thread, I did forget to check that float in water for leaks!:( oops hope that doesn't come back to haunt me?

Regards,

 Chris 

 My float looked good with no dents. But this carb came off ebay and may have sat for years without gas in it. I hope we can get it on a tractor this spring and see if my rebuild was sussecful. 

Thanks for the support!

Yea I still like those old Fords! We need some pictures of your toys, maybe the Vicky?

GG hows the carb coming along??

 Regards,

Chris

 That is looking way better! I like to scotch-brite the mating surfaces. Or if you have a fine stone (machinists) you can use that to 'flatten' the mating surfaces and remove some of the roughness.

Should run good!

Regards,

 Chris

Anything else you think I should take out and clean? This is how far I've stripped it down (when I started to razor blade the gasket off)