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transbrake

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acd21man View Drop Down
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Joined: 07 Jan 2010
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote acd21man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: transbrake
    Posted: 24 Dec 2010 at 2:48pm
who knows how to adjust the transbrake on a 7000 and a 7010 allis-chalmers powershift.......thanks
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Wes (VA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wes (VA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2010 at 5:15pm
On a 7000, the left floorboard/fender needs to be pulled up to get to the linkage to adjust.  If its an open station.  Never been in a 7000 with a cab, but im guessing the floor will come out and let you access it.  If you can't adjust it up, the brake itself is replacable by removing the valve-body on the right side of transmission.  On a 7010, there's either a cable or linkage coming off of the clutch pedal that I believe can be adjusted..the linkage ends up at the valve body on the right side of the transmission behind the batteries.  About the last inch of pedal travel should have brake feel, with a 'free' spot before it where the transmission stops pulling and the brake applies.  7000 is similar.  Hope this helps.   -Wes
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Leon B MO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2010 at 7:17pm
We ajusted the transbrake on the 8050 powershift not a month ago. There are several linkages and placed to ajust. Did what the I T book said and after getting done it actually works, before as soon as the clutch disengaged the trans brake applied but now there is a bit of stroke before the trans brake comes on. We can stop the tractor with the foot brakes now. Good luck.
Leon B MO
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Andrew(southernIL) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew(southernIL) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2010 at 8:03pm
Would like to know if the 7000 with cab can be adjusted from the floor. I was affraid I would have to drop the tank.
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec 2010 at 8:49pm
On the 7010 there is a cable at the left rear of the engine. With the engine OFF, loosen the clamp that holds the cable and pull it tword the engine until all the free travel of clutch pedel is gone.
 The 7000 may have a spring broke or gone if it is a black belly.    MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allispicker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2019 at 11:00am
Resurrecting an old post after doing a lot of searching. I recently purchased a 7010 PD and it acts like the trans brake isn’t working. I’ve taken all of the slack out of the clutch cable and it still grinds like crazy when trying to shift. If I start it in gear and shift from there it shifts fine, but if I let the clutch out and then push the clutch in again to shift it grinds again. What am I missing?
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Lonn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2019 at 12:00pm
could be warped PD plates.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2019 at 12:29pm
With the engine off, open the cab door and pull down on the inching pedal with your hand. There cannot be ANY freeplay. Even tho you may have adjusted the cable as far as it will go, if the fork bushings are worn out/broken you still are not fully applying the trans brake. Whenever I went to the trouble of pulling off that panel that covers the clutch valve, I always replaced those fork bushings and the ball joint on the end of the cable, and then adjusted the cable length.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allispicker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2019 at 12:33pm
What do you mean by the inching pedal? Is that the mechanism with the spring with bolt tensioner?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2019 at 12:53pm
inching pedal is the "clutch" pedal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allispicker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2019 at 5:25pm
I have bushings ordered. With the cable adjusted all the way back, the fork touches the heavy spring. The clutch pedal moves another 1” before the plunger is pulled out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allispicker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec 2019 at 12:16pm
I have the bushings in. When adjusting the cable, do I pull it back until the fork comes into contact with the spring? Or even further until the spring starts pulling the plunger out?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec 2019 at 12:28pm
A little pressure on the spring is OK because when you throttle the engine up the spool is pushed out some anyway. Oil all that fork linkage and spring with WD40 or the like.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allispicker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2019 at 1:45pm
I just finished installing all new bushings, spacer, J-pin, cable, and cable ends. Pulled all of the slack out and still the same result....grinds when shifting. What else could be causing the trans brake to not engage?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2019 at 2:14pm
Now, you are down to verifiying what kind of pressure is being sent to the brake. If that is OK (195-205 psi I think) then you either have a trans brake that is worn out or warped discs/plates inside the power director clutch that are dragging too much and the brake cannot stop the rotation.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allispicker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2019 at 2:54pm
After running it for a half hour the trans brake appears to be working. Is it normal for the trans brake to not work as well until the tractor is fully warmed up?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2019 at 3:52pm
With cold oil causing the clutch to drag more, the brake has more to overcome. The tractor ain't new anymore. How many hrs are on it  ??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allispicker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2019 at 4:11pm
The tach shows 500, so I’m assuming it has been replaced. The drawbar and pedals show very little wear so I don’t think it has 10.5k.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2019 at 4:19pm
none of them work nice at first startup. Need to run a little
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2019 at 9:03pm
Always allow a few seconds for everything to stop turning on start-up.     MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2019 at 9:06pm
You said PS and we all gave advice on PD.          MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2019 at 9:20pm
Originally posted by MACK MACK wrote:

You said PS and we all gave advice on PD.          MACK
 That's why everyone should have his own services manuals....
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