8010 plowing question

I have never used a 8010 so i am assuming its all cat III 3 point since u have i hooked up.  Sway blocks should have the big end against the trator for cat III.  There should be no movement side to side of the plow if its right.  I use an 8030 2 wd for 4 -18 with little problems. Ballasts in the rear tires helps alot.  As far as the traction booster goes i use it very little, but to set it up from the cab you use the 3 point to set the depth. Once in the ground use the traction boooster lever to raise and lower just pull back on the lever until the plow starts to raise up and set the stop there.  You the should be able to use the TB lever to raise and lower the plow. I am sure if i am wrong on the tb side someone can set us straight.

Set the traction control lever for the depth on the front of the plow,the plow is pullin down on the 3 point arms all the time.

That's correct,set your gauge wheel to set the depth of the rear of the plow,HTH.

thanks dr allis and others

I found 4-18s (AC 2000 monobeam) a bit much for my 95 hp JD 4020 in damp heavy soil. It had the power, and the traction, but only at 3.5 mph and the front end stayed in the air most of the time.

So I dropped off the front bottom, added all the front end weight I had, and moved the hitch over 18" and down as much as I could to lower the pulling line, and went back to plowing at 5.5 mph instead of 3.5. Covered more ground each hour, and the higher speed caused the dryer dirt to roll so hard it crumbled and left a furrowless surface. In 5th gear instead of 3rd the tractor didn't have the torque to lift the front end.

Gerald J.

Back too question about wedges,small end should be in for the category 2 plow.

Check your plow,I pull an IH #720 5/16 plow and use sleeves to make the pull bar bigger diameter to fit the 3 point arms on the tractor.