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H3 crawler turning clutches question MORE PICS |
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warddc ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 26 Nov 2012 Points: 49 |
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Where is the leak? Are you sure it's the final drive and not the seal from the clutch housing to the clutch well. Could be cross-shaft seals which are easier to replace.
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1962 H-3 Dozer
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blrott ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 28 Apr 2012 Location: neenah wi Points: 38 |
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need help with my h3. both final drives leak. do i drop the tracks, pull the sprockets and remove the rear cover plate. are the shafts held with a castle nut or what. any help would be great. pulled and rebuilt engine and new clutch last summer. gave it a paint job at the same time. thanks. bruce. 920-642-0277.
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graham7226 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 15 Jan 2013 Location: NB, Canada Points: 11 |
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Thanks, I'll probably have a question or two. I've got to admit after seeing a picture of your hd3 I'm a little jealous, it looks so easy to work on with the blade. I've got the 1066 loader and it always seems to be in front of whatever you need to get at.
Edited by graham7226 - 19 Jan 2013 at 7:34am |
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Allis HD3 w/ 1066
John Deere 440 ICD Cat 955 12A Traxcavator |
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graham7226 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 15 Jan 2013 Location: NB, Canada Points: 11 |
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Not to hijack Warddc's thread, but I have no idea if the clutches work to be honest. I bought the tractor in pieces with a newly rebuilt Buda D175 Engine. I've just got the engine back in and running, but haven't got enough pieces together to try the drive train. I've just noticed the oil on the floor and after taking off the covers, its obvious the seal between the rear end and the final drive housing. I figure they should probably come out and get looked at anyway the right hand final drive house looks good but the left hand one seems somewhat rusty, and the clutch lever has a lot of extra travel.
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Allis HD3 w/ 1066
John Deere 440 ICD Cat 955 12A Traxcavator |
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warddc ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 26 Nov 2012 Points: 49 |
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If you need any info about the process, just ask. I am pretty good at it now that I've done two of them. |
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1962 H-3 Dozer
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warddc ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 26 Nov 2012 Points: 49 |
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Lol. Thanks. I took the clutches up to the father in laws place to reassemble them. He has a press. Those clutches really are in the living room. They look purdy no? Edited by warddc - 17 Jan 2013 at 6:20pm |
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1962 H-3 Dozer
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Eric B ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 09 Feb 2012 Location: British Columbi Points: 976 |
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Warddc: Wow ..... your work is picture perfect ...... looks like you're working in your living room ...... it's easy to visualize you wearing a suit and tie....LOL. I hope you're OK with a little humor
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Randaleky ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Aug 2011 Location: belfry, ky. Points: 427 |
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are the clutches slipping ? does the brake band hold good ? i guess the oil came out of drain hole in final bottom.
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graham7226 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 15 Jan 2013 Location: NB, Canada Points: 11 |
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Nice looking clutches. It's good to see pictures of the process, I was just getting ready to tear the clutches out of my HD3 after finding tranny oil on the floor.
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Allis HD3 w/ 1066
John Deere 440 ICD Cat 955 12A Traxcavator |
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Tracy Martin TN ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gallatin,TN Points: 10823 |
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Nice work on the repair. Pics help out alot! Tracy Martin
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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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Randaleky ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Aug 2011 Location: belfry, ky. Points: 427 |
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nice job friend. keep updates coming. randal
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warddc ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 26 Nov 2012 Points: 49 |
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Well, I put the clutches back together today. I painted all the exposed metal that I could after using the rotary wire brush on everything. They came out pretty good. Now to get them back in the dozer. Thanks again Gemdozer for the brake drum.
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1962 H-3 Dozer
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warddc ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 26 Nov 2012 Points: 49 |
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The seals actually looked fine to me. No damage getting them out. I am in upstate NY.
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1962 H-3 Dozer
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Randaleky ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Aug 2011 Location: belfry, ky. Points: 427 |
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MAN YOU WENT ALL THE WAY WITH IT. GOOD DECISION. BEVEL SECTION LOOKS GOOD. WHAT ABOUT SEALS. ANY VISIBLE DAMAGE BEYOND WHAT YOU MAY HAVE DONE WHILE PULLING THEM ? WHERE ARE YOU LOCATED ? RANDAL
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warddc ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 26 Nov 2012 Points: 49 |
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Right cross shaft bearing carrier out.
![]() Left carrier out and all the guts. Now I can check all bearings, races and seals! ![]() |
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1962 H-3 Dozer
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TREVMAN ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 04 Jan 2010 Location: Regina,Sask,Can Points: 1635 |
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I have to say, nice work. You are going to have a very nice little machine when you are done, Trev.
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warddc ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 26 Nov 2012 Points: 49 |
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I went with bimetallic as well. New bands, bearings and seals.
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1962 H-3 Dozer
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Randaleky ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Aug 2011 Location: belfry, ky. Points: 427 |
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by the way did you go back with fiber clutches or the bi-metalic ? i went with bi-metalic and bought them from webmasters@tractorparts.com . paid 172.35 for 4 bi-metalic clutches and 3 new steel plates. all aftermarket new items. new bands are 145.00 each they are in idaho. bought bearings and seals from napa store.
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Randaleky ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Aug 2011 Location: belfry, ky. Points: 427 |
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yes drain the oil. probably a smart thing to replace both sides while down this far. i don't guess having both carriers out at same time will hurt about alignment since axles are left in splines on bevel.
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warddc ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 26 Nov 2012 Points: 49 |
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nope. probably tonight. I think that I have to drain the oil in the tranny to get it below the level of the carriers.
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1962 H-3 Dozer
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Randaleky ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Aug 2011 Location: belfry, ky. Points: 427 |
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have you pulled the carriers yet ?
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warddc ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 26 Nov 2012 Points: 49 |
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Thanks for all the help. On the left side everything was oily and the right side was fairly dry. I am going to replace both seals since i have everything open. I am waiting on seals from minnpar now.
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1962 H-3 Dozer
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Randaleky ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Aug 2011 Location: belfry, ky. Points: 427 |
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by the way, what kind of shape were the clutches in when you tore the unit down? were the oil soaked on outside and the fiber plates ? did both sides appear the same ? when i checked mine and discovered the problem, i took the throw out bearing carrier off and took mirror with light to look at seal and found rubber damaged and protruding toward the steering clutch. that is why i had to pull the cap and change mine. it is not a real big job. my e-mail is randal.thornsbury@aol.com send pm and i will give you my home phone # in case you need to call me.
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Randaleky ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Aug 2011 Location: belfry, ky. Points: 427 |
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ONCE YOU PULL THE CARRIER YOU WILL NEED TO DRIVE THE BEARING RACE OFF AND THEN THE OLD SEAL. REPLACE WITH NEW SEAL AND THEN PUT BEARING RACE BACK IN . REPLACE CARRIER, PUT 4 BOLTS BACK AND JOB DONE. YOU WILL NOT NEED TO REMOVE BACK PLATE WHERE PTO IS. ALL CAN BE DONE FROM INSIDE STEERING CLUTCH HOUSING.
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warddc ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 26 Nov 2012 Points: 49 |
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I was thinking I could just remove the four bolts that hold in the bearing carrier (behind the throw out bearing yoke) and pull it out. The seal for the cross axle is in this bearing carrier. I am not clear on how you replaced the seal from your instructions. Did you replace it from accessing through the pto housing?
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1962 H-3 Dozer
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Randaleky ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Aug 2011 Location: belfry, ky. Points: 427 |
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I JUST PULLED MINE AND REPLACED THE SEAL. I TOOK A SCREW DRIVER AND KNOCKED THE SEAL BACK TOWARD THE BEVEL GEAR. TOOK 2 BOLTS AROUND FIVE INCHES LONG AND WITH A 3/4 INCH CARRIAGE TYPE HEAD. GROUND ONE SIDE OF BOLTS FLAT TO BOLT SIZE. GROUND OPPOSITE SIDE ENOUGH TO GET IT TO FIT BEHIND THE FLANGE STOP FOR THE SEAL. PUT A FLAT BAR WITH TWO SLIDING SLOTTED HOLES. PUT TAPS ON AND TOOK SLATE BAR BEHIND BAR, GAVE A LITTLE PUSH AND IT POPPED OUT. SLID CAP OFF THE AXLE AND PUT SEAL IN. LINES BACK UP PUT TWO BOLTS IN STARTED TO EVENLY TIGHTEN TILL I GOT BACK TO BEARING. LIFTED SLIGHTLY UPWARD ON AXLE AND EASED CAP BACK INTO PLACE. THEN PUT THE OTHER TWO BOLTS IN, TIGHTENED GOOD. PUT CONE BACK ON OVER AXLE. TOTAL TIME FOR JOB 1 HOUR.
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warddc ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 26 Nov 2012 Points: 49 |
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I can take a look at replacing the bevel section seals while I have it open. I don't have the equipment to change the seals on the final drive. You have to remove the track drive sprocket. Can you get at the bevel gear seals from the turning clutch well? The parts book shows an o-ring to seal around the flange and then an inner seal around the shaft near the bearing.
Edited by warddc - 16 Dec 2012 at 4:50pm |
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1962 H-3 Dozer
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Randaleky ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Aug 2011 Location: belfry, ky. Points: 427 |
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hope you are right. the plugs are normally open to allow drainage, unless you work in dozer in really wet areas where water could get into the clutches. my plugs were out and the oil out of bevel section ruined the fiber ones. clutches slipped and brake band wold not work.
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warddc ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 26 Nov 2012 Points: 49 |
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I am not sure where the oil is coming from. Could be either the transmissions seals or the final drive seals. It took fifty years to get like that and both plugs were still in the bottom of the clutch wells. The new clutches will outlive me.
Edited by warddc - 16 Dec 2012 at 4:22pm |
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1962 H-3 Dozer
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Randaleky ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Aug 2011 Location: belfry, ky. Points: 427 |
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looks real good after cleaned up. where did all the oil in cases come from ? if it is out of the bevel gear end ( rear end ) section then the seal must be down and since the clutches are dry type, if seals are leaking, you will be back at the same job a little later. i just rebuilt one side and had to pull the cap out to replace the seal. not a big job at this point.
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