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D15 Brakes |
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Harley
Bronze Level Joined: 07 Jan 2012 Location: Perry Iowa Points: 10 |
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Posted: 08 Jan 2012 at 12:07pm |
OK, cant put it off any longer. My D15 brakes are dangerous. Left brake grabs and locks and the right brake has no effect. Tried adjusting right pedal up to same hight as left but still no brakes.
Where do I start. Dont have an overhead lift to remove liquid filled tire but do have an engine hoist, that tri pod hydraulic thing that can lift 2000lbs. Can I do this with my simple tools? Got to have this 1960 model for next hay season.
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20191 |
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Jack up one side at a time and remove the eight rear wheel bolts from the axle center. You make have to get behind the wheel and pry it free with a long pry bar, so leave one bolt loosely installed until you break the wheel center free. Carefully tip the top of the rear wheel out a bit and roll the wheel back and forth to clear the final drive and roll it out of the way and lean it up against something and do not let it fall over on it's side. Yes, it's heavy, but it is not that difficult to roll away clear by yourself and a helper as long as you don't tip it too far. Remove the fender and get it out of the way. Remove the axle/final drive with your cherry picker. You'll have to sling this in a way that lets it hang squarely as the final drive isn't on center top to bottom on a D14/D15.
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Dave H
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Central IL Points: 3491 |
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Is it a sderies 1 or 2?
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson, WI Points: 1826 |
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Do as Dr. Allis says and you will be fine. Just make sure you have open room around the wheel when you roll it out of the way. Once it starts to tip over, no man is gonna straighten it back up, so make sure you have a clear path just in case so you can get out of the way and let the wheel fall over if it does. I have done them outside in the past and close to my work van which has a big cube box on the back. Then I just roll the wheel over to the side of the truck and lean it up until I am done. You may even be able to center your cherry picker on either side of the rear wheel and use a strap around the top and once it is free, jack it up some and roll it away on the picker, and then set it up against a wall and let it back down. Also make sure you got the tractor blocked good as taking a loaded tire off of one side takes alot of the weight off of the back, and then you're gonna take the final drive off on one side as well, so the rearend's weight will really be offcenter. Good luck and if you have any more questions, you're in the right place for answers.
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1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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B26240
Orange Level Joined: 21 Nov 2009 Location: mn Points: 3860 |
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Goodto hear your going to fix them, it's hard to believe some people use these old tractors without any brakes. I did a brake job on a WD45 that the guy used for haying and had done so for years with no braking force at all. After he got it home (driving it ) he called me to say he should have fixed them years befor!!
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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If the D15 is like the D17, there are a couple pins that can be "fun" to remove. On the D17 you have to pull the pins and remove the brake shoes before the final drives can be removed.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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wfmurray
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Bostic NC Points: 1225 |
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Put brakes on D 14. Took wheel off and fender and step jacked up final drive housing put saw horse under axle housing and pulled it out . Did,t have lift but was a lot younger and stronger . PS I did have it blocked good.
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Harley
Bronze Level Joined: 07 Jan 2012 Location: Perry Iowa Points: 10 |
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Thanks for the advise on getting the final drive off. Pulled it off this afternoon with the cherry picker; no problem.
so now what is next? Looks like two bolts and one nut will take the holding plate off and the shoes should slip right out. Is that right or am I going to have trouble getting the shoes off. Drum looks good. Shoe was broken which is what was causing the brake to grab and lock the wheel. |
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Scott(SC)
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Starr, SC Points: 397 |
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Did you have any oil on the brakes? If there's any leakage, the seal is right there easy to change.
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Harley
Bronze Level Joined: 07 Jan 2012 Location: Perry Iowa Points: 10 |
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didnt see much oil. Brake lining seemed tobe dry
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Rick of HopeIN
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Hope, Indiana Points: 1311 |
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Not a terrible job but the parts are heavy. My previous owner had replaced several studs with bolts so I found out you had to have a pan handy to catch the oil, too late.
My pads were oil soaked, so you are lucky if the seal was good. Brakes work fine now. I did have to replace return spring on the rod.
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1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless
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DonDittmar
Orange Level Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Location: MIllersburg, MI Points: 2479 |
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Series 1 brakes are a fiber lining like a D14. Series 2 brakes are ceramic and cannot be relined, expensive from agco...like 200/shoe
can always buy series 1 lining and drill rivet holes in your shoes
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Experience is a fancy name for past mistakes. "Great moments are born from great opportunity"
1968 D15D,1962 D19D Also 1965 Cub Loboy and 1958 JD 720 Diesel Pony Start |
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Dave H
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Central IL Points: 3491 |
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yep Don that is what I did on my 15 II
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Harley
Bronze Level Joined: 07 Jan 2012 Location: Perry Iowa Points: 10 |
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Just finished left brake relining. It was a bit of work due to my inexperience. I think the right wheel will be much easier.
Two things made it more difficult than it shouldhave. I didnt remove the step completely because I didnt want to take down the hydraulic line. The two studs on the bottom of the final drive were always in the way. Solution some masking tape to hold the studs up out of the way. The first time with the final drive back in place, the brake was not functional because the dog inside the brake assembly had slipped out of place, so start over. secondly, I needed to disconnect the linkage completely to totally retract the brake shoes. The learning curve was steep and my patience short, but I got it done. The cherry picker was indispensible for moving the tire and handling the final drive. My d15 serial number is 1783. Must be a series 1.
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norm[ind]
Orange Level Joined: 29 Oct 2010 Location: bourbon,ind Points: 2992 |
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14&15 are the same---17 is different will not interchange
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Harley
Bronze Level Joined: 07 Jan 2012 Location: Perry Iowa Points: 10 |
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Just finished the right wheel brake relining. Sure is a lot easier after the experience of the left brake.
Interesting failure mode...The debris from the brake lining plugged the drain hole and let oil collect and flood the brake shoes. |
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