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use combine as a swather |
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wjkrostek
Silver Level Joined: 18 Dec 2010 Location: Wasilla alaska Points: 131 |
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Posted: 22 Oct 2011 at 11:16am |
I have been working on a downed oat field that is impossible to cut unless I use the humme reel on my gleaner E3 I have used up one clutch on the separator and just can do anything slow enough to keep from plugging her up. Other than running the parts for nothing why cant I just open both doors at the concave and use her as a swather? The oats are soaking wet, laying flat and I don't want them anyway. All I want to do is get the straw off the ground. When I rented the land I said I would do that and I need to do everything possible to get it done. Any ideas? Don't tell me to go get a swather I can't. Anyone try this before? It's 16 acres of lodged thick oats laying in all directions. I can't even get it raked good with all the oats still connected and flat. My disk mower will not cut it.
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Clay
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Udall, Kansas Points: 9244 |
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Try to locate someone, in your area, who has a MC Rotary Scythe. (Mathews Company, Crystal Lake, Ill.)
A MC Rotary Scythe is a flail mower. The flails create a suction which will lift tangled wet crops. |
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wjkrostek
Silver Level Joined: 18 Dec 2010 Location: Wasilla alaska Points: 131 |
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there isn't a lot of farming going on here. whats your thoughts on the combine used as a swather. Can you see any thing damaged by doing that? Other than a lot of useless ware and tear.
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Don M SEIA
Silver Level Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Location: Danville, Iowa Points: 119 |
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The 1966 E that I have was used to winrow hay until the sickle driver rod broke. I think it should work , you might even take the back concave door off.
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Roddo
Orange Level Joined: 16 Jul 2010 Location: Brant, Ontario Points: 466 |
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Are there any panels that you can remove on the feederhouse? Or that you could cut out and bolt back in? Open the feederhouse up and just let it all fall out. Then it would end up swathed.
I suppose if wear and tear is a concern that knock some belts off that aren't needed to drive your head. |
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wjkrostek
Silver Level Joined: 18 Dec 2010 Location: Wasilla alaska Points: 131 |
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not sure what you mean by feederhouse? seems to me it goes from the feeder to the concave then the beater and on the raddle boards . by opening the door on the concave the oat straw should come out of the feeder and dump out the straw before going through the concave or most of it anyway. these seem to be simple machines i just don't want to try something that could do harm by not understanding the whole picture. I have no experience with combines.
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Steve M C/IL
Orange Level Joined: 01 Jul 2010 Location: shelbyville IL Points: 691 |
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It would be best if you could remove the concave door(the back portion of the bottom of the cylinder housing). It is held in by a rod which it pivots on....I have however seen the rod rusted pretty tight and you may have to remove one drive tire to get it out in one piece.Worst case scenerio you could probably use a sawzall and cut hinge rod from underneath between edge of door hinge and feeder housing just to get it off. Should be able to leave (front) trap door on,just folded all the way open.I'm not sure you have enough room to spit the stuff out the bottom with just the trap door open.Removing the rear door would be best but you could try it the other way first.Just make sure there is no chain connecting the trap door to the latch on the rear door because it will 'plug" the opening in short order. I'm assuming that there is a rear door on an E as there was on my A2 and present F2. I don't know if there is room to have no interference under there if you can just unbolt the rear door and let hang. I think what you're suggesting would work. I'd leave the rest of the threshing system running and check it every so often to see that the wet "junk" hasn't buit up somewhere(if it even gets there) to cause problems. Running an empty seperator shouldn't hurt anything. With the bottom opened up,I can't see a need to change the position of the cylnder. Hope this makes sence & good luck.
the feederhouse is the piece between the head and pivot shaft(the pivot point for all the stuff that goes up or down with the lift cylinders).It holds the feeder beater.cylinder and thresher beater. Edited by Steve M C/IL - 23 Oct 2011 at 1:03am |
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JohnCO
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Niwot Colo Points: 8992 |
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I was wondering how you were doing. A couple thoughts, if a disk mower won't cut the oats, I question if a cycle bar mower will cut it. Also, if it does cut it, will the auger be able to move it to the center and then will the feederhouse chain be able to move the crop to the opening. It does seem like it would make more sense to see if someone in the neighborhood has a diskbine to windrow it. Your next problem is getting it dry enough to bale, looks like early winter has arrived in your part of the world. I just can't imagine there being enough sun to dry straw. None the less, I wish you luck. Maybe next year you could get the oats planted earlier or find a windrower and a pick up head for the combine. A lot easier for us in the lower 48 to find the needed machines nearby then it is for you.
Edited by JohnCO - 23 Oct 2011 at 1:15am |
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"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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SHAMELESS
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: EAST NE Points: 29486 |
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your hume reel should pick it up, enough for the cutter bar to cut most of it, slide your header auger out too, close everything inside the threshing area, take off the belt for the spreader (sometimes that will aid in plug ups too) so try it as sometimes the spreader will help pull some straw out open your concaves all the way, also watch, there is a small tarp right behind the beater, remove that (or tie it up) as the beater will help send all that straw through faster! adjust the beater to spin real fast! i did this ona "G" combine once, worked pretty good. i take it you want to try and save the straw, otherwise get a heavy disk and start out disking it in different directions.
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powertech84
Silver Level Joined: 17 Oct 2009 Location: Wisconsin Points: 461 |
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Use a haybine or sickle, or flail mower. Opening up the concave will only cause the crop to wrap around intself in the threshing are and it will plug worse. In fact it might get through the machine better if you close the concave completly.
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Skyhighballoon(MO)
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Pilot Grove, MO Points: 3115 |
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On an EIII you can swing the rear door down and back fairly far with the header/feederhouse all the way up. But I'm guessing it may be pretty close to the ground with the header all the way down to pick up downed crop. I have not looked to see how hard the rear door is to remove.
I DO know that if your rock door (front door) pops open (or you forget to shut it right), an EIII WILL continue to pull the crop through and thresh it without terrible grain loss (in wheat at least). Just slows you down to the slower side of first gear. Don't ask me how I know this....lol. So the rear door has to be open/out of the way to try this. Mike |
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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers |
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wjkrostek
Silver Level Joined: 18 Dec 2010 Location: Wasilla alaska Points: 131 |
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I can't get it cut becasue it's laying down so low and thick I can't get under it. If I could the volume would be so much I couldn't handle it. And your right it will never dry now but I need to get it off the field some how if I want to come back. being a share cropper stuck with a combine I can't use and nothing to share. I have cut it several times raked and baled it several times and In some areas I can see the ground. we are having a strange fall and the ground is not frozen yet. even with the little I cut my tractor will not pull the baler slow enough. I leave the pick up up so it doesn't get on the ground but the long straws still pull up the wet and wrap around or pull up the roots dirt and all. It been a learning experience for sure. thats why sitting in the seat slipping the clutch on my combine I thought of just opening her up and just let it pass through. From the little I did get combined I took 20 tons of oats off (Most oats I have ever harvested.) and so far have saved them with air but they haven't frozen yet, still about 38 degrees. normally By now I have them frozen and our dry winter will take care of the rest. I need to find a way to stop the lodging. the fella that planted my seed his only got 4 ft tall he said. So its either the water or the fertilizer. The farmer I rent from wants me to fertilize as part of the deal other wise I'm farming his soil. I'm going to try different varieties if i can find them and the Boss will let me back. After the mess I made this year but it's not over until its over.
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SHAMELESS
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: EAST NE Points: 29486 |
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if you arefertilizing heavy, that will make the straw heavy andwill lodge....we used fertilizer on ours but only 50 of N per acre, that always gave us 34-36 lb oats.
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SHAMELESS
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: EAST NE Points: 29486 |
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can you wait til the ground freezes, then take an old dump rake over it?
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wjkrostek
Silver Level Joined: 18 Dec 2010 Location: Wasilla alaska Points: 131 |
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there is no dump rakes around here and I have to disk it before the ground freezes. If it's not black in the spring the ground will not warm up fast enough and it's so muddy you can't get on the ground until it thaws and the ice goes out. We freeze down to 10 feet so it takes time. thats why the straw needs to be off. it's hard to understand unless your here.
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Steve M C/IL
Orange Level Joined: 01 Jul 2010 Location: shelbyville IL Points: 691 |
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Take a stab at removing the concave door to spit it out the bottom and swath it like you wondered.You don't have much choice beyond writing it off and discing it up and time is not your friend.
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Byron WC in SW Wi
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Wisconsin Points: 1635 |
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Green cut flail chopper would be great but I understand stuff is hard to get up there. The flail chopper would pick it up and blow it into a wagon. You could then haul it away and at the very least use it as a mulch or garden cover or even put it back on the field in the Spring when you can work it up.
Good luck. |
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TREVMAN
Orange Level Joined: 04 Jan 2010 Location: Regina,Sask,Can Points: 1635 |
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Did you find any crop lifters? If you are going to combine in those conditions I think you need them. In the mean time I would try to leave the concave door open, go full speed on the cylinder, close the sieves, open the air up, leave the elevators open, tie the curtain back, take half a cut or less so that the machine will handle it. Sounds very frustrating, Hope it turns out o.k. If you are interested in lifters, pm me, we will arrange something, start with pictures. The ones i am refering to will pay for themselves in about 20 feet...Trev.
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wjkrostek
Silver Level Joined: 18 Dec 2010 Location: Wasilla alaska Points: 131 |
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I don't think the lifters will work in this situation. My combine will not go slow enough to handle that much material. After you all told me about them I was watching from the seat and i see that they would get under and lift the crop much better but then the amount of material would be so much more and wetter that I just couldn't go that slow to handle it. If the oats were dry and 1/4 of the volume I can see they would be better. As it turns out its good that I'm missing most of the material or I would have to slip the clutch so much I would burn it up. Raining heavy now so that will throw an other stick in the job. I have a 1/4 of the field cleared off to the point I can the ground on most of it.
I found out why I couldn't adjust the seperator clutch. the adjuster ring threads where so warn down that they would pop out to the next thread when under pressure. I bought new parts from sandy lake PA and all the slop was taken out of the treads and It seems to work just fine. So if you have trouble with the clutch adjustment like i was take it apart and then thread the ring back on and see how much play there is between the two peices. the new one has very little to none and the old one was very sloppy compared. Another $500 in the experiment. What a test of both the machine and me. |
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AC WD45
Orange Level Joined: 28 Sep 2009 Location: Mid Michigan Points: 1995 |
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Go get your self an old scickle bar mower, knock it down, then a rake, and rake it into windrows
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German Shepherd dad
1957 Allis Chalmers WD45 #WD234847 1951 Allis Chalmers WD #WD88193 |
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JohnCO
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Niwot Colo Points: 8992 |
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How about just cutting it with a brush hog type mower. I'm sure those are in your part of the country. Then maybe you can rake it and bale it. I would think someone has a foliage chopper up there, that would be the fast way if you have a wagon to blow it into. Don't suppose it will freeze before you have snow cover, that would make it too easy. I would suggest taking some soil tests and sending them off to a lab. With the kind of growth you had, I seriously doubt if the ground needs any fertilizer.
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"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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