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Fanmanj 
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Joined: 08 May 2011
Location: Thibodaux,la
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 Topic: New guy here with carb. Issues on a '44 model B
Posted: 08 May 2011 at 5:02pm |
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First off, I am the volunteer mechanic for a local farming museum here in Thibodaux, LA (yes the same place the Thomson conversion tractors came from) we have several converted Thomson UC's.
BUT... I'm having issues with a '44 model B right now. The tractor had sat up for 15 or so years. I got it running, abeit poorly. Then I changed plugs, wires, points/condenser in the F.M. Magneto, and rebuilt the zenith carb. The tractor ran fine for about 2 hours. I was taking it on a test spin, and it sputtered, and killed. Figured the magneto got hot, spark got weak. So I swapped the magneto for another good hot one I had. Same thing. She would pop and fart, sometimes run for a second or 2 on full choke, and then die. Finally got her restarted, would only run poorly on full choke at 1/2 throttle. I had figured the carb had gotten some trash in it. Surprise, pulled the carb down, it was clean! Shot through everything with carb cleaner, no issues. Put it back on. Same thing, It would run, but sputter and pop, and would only run with the choke all the way on. I figured the manifold gasket may be leaking. Pulled the manifold, and the gasket looked good! I started looking a little harder at the carb. I think it's one of those 'universal fit' zenith's they sell on eBay. Could that be my problem? I just find it strange that the tractor ran SO good for 2 hours, then it's like someone threw a monkey wrench in it, and I can't find anything wrong!!! I've been messing with these old tractors out here for 10 years now, and this one has me stumped!!!
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 23863
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Posted: 08 May 2011 at 5:10pm |
Silly question but how clean is the gas tank AND the sediment bowl ?
Could be 'something' in the tank semi-floating around(wasp remains, varnish,sticks,???).
I use a strong LED light and mirror to look at 100% of the inside of tanks now.
just thinking out loud.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Fanmanj
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Joined: 08 May 2011
Location: Thibodaux,la
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Posted: 08 May 2011 at 5:12pm |
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Sediment bowl is brand new, the fuel tank is clean.. I'm getting good fuel flow from the hose.
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Burgie
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Scottsburg, IN
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Posted: 08 May 2011 at 5:29pm |
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Have you checked the float setting?
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"Burgie"
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Fanmanj
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Location: Thibodaux,la
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Posted: 08 May 2011 at 6:38pm |
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There were no float settings in the carb kit, so I made sure the floats were level and basically eyeballed it.
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thomas davison
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Posted: 08 May 2011 at 6:43pm |
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I had a similar problem on a B. Had a new carb and tractor would not start. Took apart and set float about ten time. Finally found the float valve was sticking shut and would only open periodically. New float valves have a soft point, and stometime they stick. I finally left the gas turned on at the sediment bowl all of the time, and the problem finally went away. Carry a wrench and bang on the elbow and this will stome times loosen the valve.
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DREAM
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Joined: 06 Jan 2010
Location: Elberton,GA
Points: 1828
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Posted: 08 May 2011 at 8:36pm |
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I had a similar problem. Tractor would run fine for a while, then just run out of fuel and die. Would usually start back up. Finally found that someone had removed the float needle seat with vise grips, and squeezed the seat out of round. The needle would vibrate around and stick closed sometimes. Changed the seat, solved the problem. Do not rule out bad parts in a new carb kit. If it's popping back thru the carb or backfiring, you might want to pull the valve cover and check the pushrods. Had a problem with that when I first got the C running. Had one bent pushrod. Straightenned it and reset. No problems since. Hope this helps.
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I didn't do it! It was a short, fat, tall, skinny guy that looked like me!
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Chalmersbob
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Pennsylvania
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Posted: 08 May 2011 at 8:49pm |
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It sure sounds like fuel statvation. Does the carb have a plug in the bottom? If it does, remove it, with a bucket under it, and let the gas run out for 10 minutes to check fuel flow. When they run better with the choke out, it needs fuel. You are cuting down the amount of air going into the carb and allowing it to balance with the amont of fuel going throught he carb. Bob
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Fanmanj
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Posted: 08 May 2011 at 11:00pm |
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Ok, just checked the float levels, it's 13/8" closed, 15/8" open. Does that sound about right? I checked both float chambers. I definitely agree it sounds like fuel starvation, but I'm getting good fuel flow?? I'll post pics of the carb soon.
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
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Posted: 10 May 2011 at 6:56am |
Your first assumption sounds correct to me. You got trash in the carburetor. As Bob mentioned, whenever you have to pull the choke closed, to keep the engine running, there's usually a fuel delivery or fuel ratio problem or issue. I just had a customer with a problem like that. He sent me his carburetor to rebuild off his C model, and while I was tearing it down for the dunk tank, I noticed little black pieces of debris in the bottom of the float bowls. I had e-mailed him and asked him if he ever had the fuel tank cleaned. Said he just got it back from an outfit that cleaned and sealed it for him, but was still having problems. I then asked him if he had a rubber fuel line from the tank or sediment bulb to the carb. He said he did. I told him to get rid of that hose because it was flaking off inside and filling the carb with tiny pieces of rubber. The hose probably was very old. The point I'm trying to make here is you never know what can cause a problem. Sometimes its right in front of you, and you don't see it, or never take into account the problems that could arise. I told him to renew the fuel line hose or install a steel replacement. A purchase of a new steel line from us, along with a nice clean carb, took care of all his problems. He said the ole' girl never ran so good, and it doesn't occasionally flood anymore. He didn't tell me about the occasional flooding part. Crazy things happen, so you have to look at the whole picture. Sorry for the ramble... HTH
Steve@B&B
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B26240
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Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: mn
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Posted: 10 May 2011 at 7:10am |
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Steve has vast experience on carbs, I agree with the "get rid of the rubber hose" even if its not the problem it will be mor original with a steel line.
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NNYACAL
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Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: RICHVILLE, N.Y.
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Posted: 10 May 2011 at 8:45pm |
Had the same problem with a "b" two years ago checked the magneto and found under load and time it would stop sparking and then intermittently restart, by yhe way it had a central tractor rebuilt tag on it, changed it out and still had same problem, but it would continue to run with the choke out, but just idle. Removed and rebuilt carburetor put it back on still same problem. I assured my buddy that the carburetor had been rebuilt correctly but he insisted, a John Deere man you know, that there was a carb problem so he had Denny's overnight him one put it on still same problem, maybe even worse. Checked th intake could find no leaks but pulled it anyway and replaced the gasket with two new studs. Still same problem. Pulled the head removed the valves and they all looked a little glazed had them ground along with the seats and started to reassemble when I found the problem the top washers that the valve stem keepers fit into were made of stamped steel and had stretched allowing the valves to go down and therefore have very little valve spring tension. They had dropped down so far that the rocker arms had worn a groove in the washers. Replaced the top washers with CAST WASHERS, checked the tension, reassembled and it has run fine ever since.
NNYACAL
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G,IB,B,C,CA,RC,WC,WF,WD,WD45,D14,D17SERIES 1,2,4
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