A huge thanks to yall

we have smooth live powered hydraulics! Tomorrow morning I will fasten the in and outlet hoses and tighten the cowling and grill down. I will have the inlet hose showing but the outlet will be hid. Some orange camo paint should help lol! Wow is it smooth! Thanks to all for the ideas and help, and a special thank you to the Doc, Skip and Glenn. Awesome! Smooth! Live!

Nica a Joba!! Been putting some good AC hours in!

That is very nice. I wish all the posts about this were put together, I'd like to do that to my D19.

That's pretty slick Captain. It sure is nice to have that little extra room up front so you can tuck everything out of the way. 

I would never recommend schedule 40 fittings for a high pressure system but my 45 has had them on it since before I bought the tractor. When I put my hydraulic pump back in after having a guy rebuild it, it wouldn't bypass and blew out my Traction Booster gauge. I put a 5000lbs gauge on it and broke that. I then borrowed a 10,000 pound gauge and it went over 9400 before it by passed. I removed the pump and found and fixed the problem(at 2900 psi now) but i still have the Schedule 40 elbows on the system. They were exposed to way more than 5000 psi twice and nothing broke or leaks. Maybe I was just living right back then???

Schedule 40 steel pipe has a working pressure well above 125 psi. Its bursting pressure is many times above its working pressure. Below is a chart with pressures for standard schedule 40 steel pipe. You can buy diffent schedules of pipe and hydraulic fitting which are higher. The bellow is just for information. 

You don't want to use heater hose for your suction line....the oil will eventually get to it and it may collapse. There is "oil-resistant" hose of the same size I.D. as heater hose and that's what it's made for.

I guess that must be the stack return to the sump so it wouldn't be under pressure. Looks OK to me except maybe the heater hose. I used a piece of heater hose for a return line on the family 8N when I put a loader on it. It lasted for about 15 years before it started to blister and separate.

In my case the heater hose was on a return line, your suction line,being heater hose probably isn't the best. It only takes a a minute with a collapsed suction line to end the usefulness of a good hydraulic pump.

Not to be the bearer of bad new Cap, but the galvenized fittings and the heater hose is not a good thing for hydraulics. Take it from a guy who builds hydraulic hose assy's  at my regular job repairing line trucks during the day. Even for a return, the heater hose will fail taking out the pump, not to mention a safety hazard. Use the correct hose with a much higher rated pressure for the system pressure that's established. Its much safer and much more reliable. God forbid if something lets go while its running and someone is standing near it when it comes apart! Not good. Ya did a great install job tho!  Sorry, I missed the original post on this topic. Haven't been on the forum as much as I used to...

C'Dana, I have to agree with the fellows on here about the heater hose and galvanised pipe. Use black pipe on the suction line. and it may be costly to put on hyd hose on the suction side but the hose will not collapse and cause failure. Pumps create so much suction when oil is cold that iot will cause screens to rip away from the welds in a 170when screen was partially plugged...Have had hoses seperate inside and not look collapsed and could not get oil to flow like it was suppose to.

The best place for a filter is in the return line from the valve. Not in the suction line to the pump or a pressure line.

Gerald J.