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Problems (2) with New C

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Ted J View Drop Down
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Location: La Crosse, WI
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    Posted: 18 Mar 2011 at 9:07am
I just bought a C and it has a lot of parts that need replacing, fixing up.

  My front end wobbles something terrible when I go down the road.  There is about 10" of play in the steering wheel.  I don't know if there is an adjustment or not?  Also the long steering arm on the side has a couple of problems.  The joints are wore out I would bet.  The one nearest the front end has the nut welded in place.  Is this arm still available?  Do the joints press out, so you can re-grease the bearings, or are they closed?

  I have fluid leaking out of the left rear wheel.  There is a LOT of grass (Hyd soaked) in the wheel hub area and I need to clean it out first before I can tell where it is coming from.  Is there a gasket or seal that is probably bad?  Is this available?  So far these seem to be my WORST problems.  It runs like a top with no smoke.  Another problem is the wiring.  I'll post that separate.  Thanks guys.
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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GregLawlerMinn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GregLawlerMinn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 2011 at 10:58am
Wobbling in the steering can be a result of any/or all of the following: worn tie rods, worn steering gear boxes, and/or worn wheel bearings. Try to determine where the play is by watching as you move the steering wheel. The long arm has tapered ends that go into the shorter arms; use a "pickle fork" to remove the arm (since someone seen fit to weld the nut on yours, you will need to cut off the nut 1st). Best bet for the long arm is to either rebuild yours or obtain one from a donor tractor.
There are seals between the final drive and the tranny that wear out resulting in oil getting into the finals and dripping out and/or soaking the brake shoes. The seals are available from most any AGCO dealer (use the AGCO ones, as the auto store ones are a lot flimsier and prone to being damaged when reinstalling the axle). One needs to pull the finals to replace the seals, best to use a hoist as the finals are very heavy.
What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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Ted J View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2011 at 7:01am
How do I tell which steering I have, the Ross or the Gemmer steering?
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Dick L View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2011 at 7:55am
A Gemmer will have these bolts showing around the out put cross shaft. The Ross will not.
 


Edited by Dick L - 20 Mar 2011 at 7:55am
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Blake_AllisMan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blake_AllisMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2011 at 4:14pm
More than likely the steering box and the front end steering are wore down. My dad and I put shims in the front end steering so that the gears would mesh closer together to stop the front end from wobbling. Its amazing what one little shim well do to your entire front steering. The only big downfall with the "C" was that Allis Chalmers didnt put any grease fittings on the steering arm to make it easier to maintenance. I would maybe suggest going to a local tractor yard and looking for one that is half way decent.
1941 C
1952 IB
1947 C
1955 WD45 SFW
1956 WD45 Diesel
1977 5020 4WD Serial Number 1
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2011 at 6:26pm
Ted, I might have some C steering parts here yet.   I will go do a quick hunt and get back with you.  
1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2011 at 7:01pm
Ted, all I got is a ross steering box, with the arm on it yet that the long shaft attaches to.   Steering box seems tight, but the support arm on it that wraps around the shaft on the left side and bolts to the frame tube has been rewelded.   I also have a one bottom plow here with the lower mounts for a C, but I don't have the whole depth adjustment parts for a C.   Those all went with the cultivators when I sold them.   I have a B depth control lever which I think would work, but wouldn't be "correct" by the correct police.  
1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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Ted J View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2011 at 6:39am
Thanks Chuck, but I have a Gemmer steering box.  I don't think the Ross will work?  Have to ask someone more knowledgeable, like Bill L.  I guess when I get into it, I will decide then what to do. Thanks anyway, Ted
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Steve in NJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2011 at 7:16am
Ted,
We can supply you with a new wiring system kit if interested. 6V kit runs $135.+ 10.95 for the Postman.
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HagerAC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HagerAC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2011 at 7:31am
To fix the steering arm on our C, what we did was get a couple of tie rod ends from Fleet farm, and then got a piece of tubing and welded a nut in each end, and then threaded the new ends in the tube, and used the other nut to lock them in place.  It works nice, but is not technically the way to do it, but its just a work tractor anyway.
30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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